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#1
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603 Belt Tensioner office emergency
ok... so i pulled into the office garage early morning and noticed a weird RPM related squeal... found that the tensioner was cocked to one side... good thing the belt didn't derail on me mid trip...
anyway, i will attempt to replace the tensioner after office hours... it's an 87 300TD... from what i've read so far this is the gameplan: loosen shroud to access the FAN somehow stop the fan from rotating...jam the belt at the power steering pulley? (replacing the belt anyway) remove fan with an 8mm or 10mm allen? remove belt... remove PULLEY from tensioner before removing tensioner... remove tensioner using what? 12mm hex? i have to be absolutely sure about the sizes because i will have to buy these... my tools are at home... thanks
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85 190E 2.3(SOLD) 86 230E (-->300D) sold 87 300D (-->300TD) sold 68 250S w/ a 615 and manual tranny (RIP) 87 300TD (SOLD) 95 S280 "The KRAKEN" (Turbo 2.9 602 transplant) traded 86 190E 2.3... current project |
#2
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I changed out my serpentine belt last night and I only need
1) 13mm wrench to remove the the tensioner bolt 2) 12mm wrench to remove the damper screw. 3) One long screw driver to leverage the tensioner black plastic thingie. Insert in into the hole to torque the tensioner to position. That should be all it takes. You should not need to remove the shroud or clutch fan. I suspect the hook on your tensioner is cocked sideway.
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed. W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html 1 X 2006 CDI 1 x 87 300SDL 1 x 87 300D 1 x 87 300TDT wagon 1 x 83 300D 1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry. |
#3
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ey thanks for the reply...
so the tensioner can be removed with everything still in place?
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85 190E 2.3(SOLD) 86 230E (-->300D) sold 87 300D (-->300TD) sold 68 250S w/ a 615 and manual tranny (RIP) 87 300TD (SOLD) 95 S280 "The KRAKEN" (Turbo 2.9 602 transplant) traded 86 190E 2.3... current project |
#4
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It depends on whether you are removing the tensioner itself or the tensioner spring. I have not removed the tensioner ( the round flat pulley ) myself. I would expect it seldom goes wrong.
You can remove the tensioner spring without removing the fan clutch. Then you can exaimine what needed to be fixed.
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed. W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html 1 X 2006 CDI 1 x 87 300SDL 1 x 87 300D 1 x 87 300TDT wagon 1 x 83 300D 1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry. |
#5
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i'm replacing the entire tensioner.
__________________
85 190E 2.3(SOLD) 86 230E (-->300D) sold 87 300D (-->300TD) sold 68 250S w/ a 615 and manual tranny (RIP) 87 300TD (SOLD) 95 S280 "The KRAKEN" (Turbo 2.9 602 transplant) traded 86 190E 2.3... current project |
#6
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Just did it!
Quote:
You can use the serpentine belt and a pair of vice grips to make a strap type wrench to hold the fan pulley, take the belt off first then pad the jaws if you will be reusing the belt. Fan bolt is 8 mm Allen Tensioner pulley is 6 mm Allen Tensioner is 12 mm Allen The lug wrench handle fits the tensioner pivot block hole 13 mm tensioner pivot block bolt and shock top bolt 11 mm shock lower bolt 3/8" drive 4-10 mm Allen set from Auto Zone 1/2" drive 12/14/17 mm Allen If you have a Harbor freight close by get this tool: Pulley Spinning Tool ITEM 66385-0VGA $7.99 on Sale now! Ideal for holding or spinning the crankshaft and camshaft on motors using deep forged pulleys. Applicable for Mercedes Benz, VW, Audi, BMW, Ford, Opel, Peugeout, Renault, Volvo and Japanese cars Long handle for extra leverage Overall dimensions: 13-1/16" L x 1-1/2" W x 1-1/2" T; Handle length: 4-5/8"; Jaw opening: Min. 1/4", Max. 7/8"; Pry bar dimensions: 13-1/16" L x 1-5/8" W x 15/16" T Weight: 0.87 lbs. |
#7
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ey thanks for the comprehensive guide bro! appreciate it...
update: got an indie to work on it as i'm still in the office (working)... he encountered a problem with his allen wrench... it seems the 12mm isn't that snug...so he's looking for a mchine shop to grind down a bigger allen... doesn't want to round off the bolt. when i checked up on him, he's managed to remove the radiator... he probably couldn't get to the fan... i'm just waiting for him to grind down the allen. thanks again... will keep you posted
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85 190E 2.3(SOLD) 86 230E (-->300D) sold 87 300D (-->300TD) sold 68 250S w/ a 615 and manual tranny (RIP) 87 300TD (SOLD) 95 S280 "The KRAKEN" (Turbo 2.9 602 transplant) traded 86 190E 2.3... current project |
#8
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done! whew...
i've been running without the shock thing for the longest time... i think that's what caused the early bearing failure, as was ponted out earlier... can't fix the shock problem yet coz there's a stuck piece of bolt where the shock mounts to... deym!
__________________
85 190E 2.3(SOLD) 86 230E (-->300D) sold 87 300D (-->300TD) sold 68 250S w/ a 615 and manual tranny (RIP) 87 300TD (SOLD) 95 S280 "The KRAKEN" (Turbo 2.9 602 transplant) traded 86 190E 2.3... current project |
#9
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Quote:
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'99 S420, 155k '91 VW Vanagon GL, 150k '85 VW Vanagon GL, 120k '82 VW Westy, aircooled, 165k |
#10
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On my SDL
I changed the entire tensioner assembly without removing anything but the assembly itself. I didn't remove the fan, fan clutch, and especially not the radiator. I replaced the tesnioner assembly on my brother's '93 300D 2.5 the same way. It took about an hour on each vehicle.
Long story short...........................................................I'm glad I don't own an '87 300TD. Whew! |
#11
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I bought my '87 300TD needing a belt tensioner and didn't drive it until I'd fixed (at least) this problem. I'm new to the 603 so this might help fellow first-timers. I had done a lot of searching and reading on the forum regarding this repair and, thinking I might save some time, attempted to do it without removing the fan. After dropping the allen wrench 19 or 23 times between the shroud and the radiator while removing the main tensioner bolt, it turned out the lower tensioner arm interfered with the fan pulley, so I had to pull the fan anyway. After removing the fan (which was actually OK, albeit tight quarters), I wished I had done it from the start. It would have saved me a lot of time. Additionally, as a first timer, it gave me so much more room to see and, therefore, do much better work, which, in turn, made me feel much better about the repair. I also replaced the original style vacuum pump while I was there just for peace of mind. With the tensioner out of the way, this was straight forward and relatively easy. Long story short, if I were to advise a person doing this job for the first time, here are some things I would suggest:
-Search the forum and read the different approaches -remove the fan, fan pulley, and serpentine belt. This will also help with the first-time belt installation when your done because of the ability to see and move. -I removed the tensioner pulley with the assembly in my vice. The bolt was very tight and this afforded me better positioning than removal while mounted to the engine. -Don't forget the spacer (looks like a big washer) that was between the tensioner and the timing chain cover on the old assembly when you're installing the new tensioner. -If your doing the vacuum pump, rotate the engine on the crank pulley bolt so the pump is not under pressure from the cam circle (or whatever it is called). If I remember correctly, the high sides of the cam circle were at the 12:00 and 6:00 positions, but don't hold me to that. -I also rotated the engine from the crank bolt to draw the 10cc of clean oil into the vacuum pump. The instructions said to do this with the engine running, but I wasn't sure I could get my wrenches on the fittings with the fan and belt installed. I don't know if my method is acceptable, but it seemed to work for me ok. In retrospect, I imagine the engine could run for this short period without the fan or belt. Just some observations.
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-RK '83 240D, auto, 170,000 miles "Old Blue" '87 300TD, 140,000 miles |
#12
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update...
Since that time that I had an indie replace the belt tensioner I have replaced it again less than a year ago. And now I noticed that it's slightly cocked again. Whyy am I chewing up belt tensioners? Is it because I have been running without the damper? If so... what in particular is affected? is it because of the absence of damping that's causing the bearing to fail? or the missing "counter" force exerted by the damper's position, it being on the other side of the belt pulley?
__________________
85 190E 2.3(SOLD) 86 230E (-->300D) sold 87 300D (-->300TD) sold 68 250S w/ a 615 and manual tranny (RIP) 87 300TD (SOLD) 95 S280 "The KRAKEN" (Turbo 2.9 602 transplant) traded 86 190E 2.3... current project |
#13
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Quote:
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#14
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I suppose the dampner prevents the CHATTER that's forced on the parts. loosens everything else.... and that timing cover is pretty fragile, so I'd want EVERYTHING in place to protect it!
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#15
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will try to extract the bolt that's stuck in there... aaarrrgh
__________________
85 190E 2.3(SOLD) 86 230E (-->300D) sold 87 300D (-->300TD) sold 68 250S w/ a 615 and manual tranny (RIP) 87 300TD (SOLD) 95 S280 "The KRAKEN" (Turbo 2.9 602 transplant) traded 86 190E 2.3... current project |
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