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This part leaks fuel, can I fix it??
Once again, please forgive my ignorance on the subject of the MB diesel engine. On my 240D, I noticed it has been leaking diesel fuel out of this part, which sits atop the injector pump. I removed it hoping to examine it closer and figure out how to fix it but now I'm kind of stuck. The fuel leaks from the ring towards the top, where I have placed the blue arrow. I dont' know if this part comes apart any further and if maybe there is a seal in there I could replace. Please help if you would be so obliged! This leak has been slow, more like a seep, but it is consistent and makes the area around the car smell like diesel fuel ever so slightly. Here are some pics:
Also kind of curious as to what this part is called...like I said earlier...I'm a total rookie at diesel engines.
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1982 240D 225K 1986 VW Jetta (gasoline) 379K 1988 BMW 735i 168K |
#2
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I somehow think that this part should not have been removed by even someone who really isn't a rookie. I don't consider myself a rookie and I usually just stop at injector lines on the IP and go no further.
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DJ 84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012 Last edited by lietuviai; 08-09-2009 at 11:36 PM. |
#3
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Well I hope I didn't screw something up real bad...I just unscrewed the injector line and undid the two bolts holding it onto the injector pump and it lifted right out.
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1982 240D 225K 1986 VW Jetta (gasoline) 379K 1988 BMW 735i 168K |
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Honestly I don't know if you did or not. I added an attachment to my previous post that warns not to remove the injection element otherwise necessitating bench adjustments of the IP.
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DJ 84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012 |
#5
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I believe that is the delivery valve. And yes, I think you should probably have left it in place. People with more experience with the IP will have to comment on the leak and what procedures you're going to have to follow to reinstall it. Forced Induction would have been a good resource on this question but in keeping with good Amish practice, he has been officially shunned.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
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FWIW they give the same warning for the delivery valves on the 606 motor. I've removed all six delivery valves to replace leaky O rings on my car and didn't have any problems. You just need to be very VERY clean about it, and also very careful to put everything back together exactly as it was.
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'98 E300 turbodiesel |
#7
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Quote:
So anyone know if it comes apart or even where I could get a replacement? I can't seem to find them listed on any auto parts sites..
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1982 240D 225K 1986 VW Jetta (gasoline) 379K 1988 BMW 735i 168K |
#8
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Look in the yellow pages for diesel injection service - they will have the parts.
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327K on 1986 W201, 602.911, 722.414 2.5 190D ("The Red Baron") 139K on 1993 W124, 104.942, 722.433 2.8 300E ("Queen") http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4081/...0bb92d3c_m.jpg http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/o...g?t=1325284354 Do not worry about your difficulties in Mathematics. I can assure you mine are still greater. - Albert Einstein take a walk down memory lane... |
#9
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Quote:
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1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous “Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss |
#10
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Why pull the negative battery cable?
Not dealing with gasoline here - so not due to explosion hazard, and the IP is mechanical, not electric, so stray current isn't going to move the internals.....confused?
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Current Mercedes 1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed Gone and fondly remembered: 1980 orient red 240D 4-speed Gone and NOT fondly remembered: 1982 Chna Blue 300TD Other car in the stable: 2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT |
#11
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Why, there was a member who left his hooked up and was working on something like the IP or some else timing related. His brother wanted to move the car and tried to start it. I don't remember the specifics or the outcome, but he was less than happy when he posted about it. So unless the OP is the only one at that house or with keys, he may want to pull the cable. That should make it harder to start the car.
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1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous “Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss |
#12
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What you have removed is one of the injection pump elements. Notice the slotted holes that hold-down studs went through--this is the adjustment for the volume of the particular element. The adjustment needs to be made on a flow bench at a fuel injection shop.
What I am saying is, no, you should not have removed or even loosened that part, and now you need to remove the IP, take it to a diesel injection shop and have it calibrated. You can't get it right without a flow bench. They will be able to fix your fuel seep at the same time. I know this probably isn't what you wanted to hear, but it's the truth. |
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update
Hello all,
I wanted to thank everyone for their help (even though, yes, it was exactly what I did NOT want to hear). Stupid me! But, this is part of the learning process, no? So here is my update. With everything considered, since I already had removed the delivery valve, I realized it came apart and I think I fixed the fuel leak at least. So, with (I hoped) nothing else to lose, I put the valve back onto the injection pump, connected the fuel line that runs to the injector, and thought I would drive it out to a local diesel shop on my next day off and have them look it over. This is my 2nd car, registered antique, and I am the only one who drives it (to answer a previous query). I went to start it and it will not start now! It cranks fine, the starter runs, but there is no start. I took off the fuel line to the delivery valve I had taken off, and the pump does not send any fuel to the line. I also checked the line at the other end of the injector pump, and no fuel is coming out of that delivery valve when the ignition is cranked. So what do I need to do now to get it started? Is there typically fuel sent through the fuel lines when you go to crank the car w/ the ignition? I do appreciate all the input.
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1982 240D 225K 1986 VW Jetta (gasoline) 379K 1988 BMW 735i 168K |
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Rotating that unit adust the fuel output; and each one is adjusted seperately on a Calibration Stand where they measure the Flow or actually measure the output in a graduate tube. The Metal Shimms that were under it were also important as the Timed the unit the the individual Camshaft Lobe. If you did not carefully mark that unit so that it cam be put back exactly where it came from and whith the exact same shims under it you will be extrememly lucky to get it back where your engine will run correctly. If you put it back in and it functions perfectly continue your string of good luck and go buy a Lottery ticket.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel Last edited by Diesel911; 08-14-2009 at 10:00 PM. |
#15
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You've lost your prime. Prime the hell out of it.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
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