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  #1  
Old 08-10-2009, 01:27 PM
KarTek's Avatar
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Unhappy Made a serious mistake with the aluminum head on my OM606...

Yesterday, I had re-sized some bolts and I was test fitting them in the aluminum head. I screwed one in about 1/2" with my fingers ONLY and it began to get tight so I stopped and began to back it out.

All was well for a few turns when it suddenly began to get tight and quickly ground to a halt. At this point, no amount of screwing in or out moved the bolt and I nearly broke the tool trying to get it back out.

So, I finally ended up breaking to bolt off and now I'm stuck either using a Dremel tool to eat away the aluminum or take it to a shop and have it EDM'd since it was a class 10.8 bolt...

Moral of the story: Always put a drop of oil of fastners that are screwed into aluminum!

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  #2  
Old 08-10-2009, 01:40 PM
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124.128/602.962/722.418
 
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Why did the bolt seize do you think? Are you supposed to use anti-seize on them like spark plugs in Al heads?
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Last edited by Oldwolf; 08-10-2009 at 03:16 PM.
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  #3  
Old 08-10-2009, 02:12 PM
compress ignite's Avatar
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Anti Sieze on ALL Fasteners used with Aluminum

Every Time!
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  #4  
Old 08-10-2009, 02:29 PM
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BUT note the torque requirements; if the book calls out torque for a dry bolt, you will need to reduce the torque for lubricated threads.
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  #5  
Old 08-10-2009, 02:38 PM
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What messed me up was that I thought I was safe just threading the bolt in by hand. Appearently, there was enough of an edge left on the tip of the bolt where I had cut it off - even after grinding, to shear off some aluminum fragments which became "intimate" with the steel bolt effectively jamming it... grrrrrr
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  #6  
Old 08-10-2009, 04:31 PM
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ugh.....I need to bookmark this one and re-read it every time I start thinking about replacing my w123 with a later model.....

Good luck!
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  #7  
Old 08-10-2009, 05:38 PM
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Gospel

Quote:
Originally Posted by compress ignite View Post
Every Time!
Absolutely right.
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  #8  
Old 08-10-2009, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeke View Post
ugh.....I need to bookmark this one and re-read it every time I start thinking about replacing my w123 with a later model.....

Good luck!
Same here....I'll stick with my 617 forever.
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  #9  
Old 08-10-2009, 05:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
BUT note the torque requirements; if the book calls out torque for a dry bolt, you will need to reduce the torque for lubricated threads.
AFAIK, only wheel bolts have a dry torque spec. Why wheel bolts are torqued dry I do not know but every manual I've ever seen has said so. Comments?

Car factories (and many mechanics) often don't use anti-seize because it's an extra step that adds time and material to the cost of the vehicle. Besides, when the problem is eventually discovered, they'll be long gone.

Anti-seize is especially important in cases of
(a) dissimilar metals
(b) heat
(c) presence of water or other ionic liquids
(d) long service intervals
e.g., glow plugs, spark plugs (whatever they are ), exhaust manifold bolts, etc.

Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-biodiesel family
1995 E300D (W124) . .239,000 miles My car
1996 E300D (W210) . .313,000 miles Wife's car
Santa Rosa population 170,685 (2012)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 722,685
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #10  
Old 08-10-2009, 06:22 PM
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Man that sucks! I had trouble with a bolt in alum once, I put so much force on it I twisted the 3/8" extension, with my bare hands!
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  #11  
Old 08-10-2009, 07:12 PM
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mmmmmm Diesel...
 
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Also, if you are going to "resize" bolts, make sure you file off the sharp edge, and chase it with a die.
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  #12  
Old 08-10-2009, 07:36 PM
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I ground them down to a nice rounded tip but I guess there was still a sharp enough edge to strip some of the aluminum off and jam the threads.

I was just flabbergasted since I had simply spun the bolt in with my fingers, bottomed it out then started to spin it back out when it stuck tight.
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  #13  
Old 08-10-2009, 09:08 PM
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That is surprising, that finger tight would bind like that. Sorry to hear that it happened. Can you get the bolt out, hopefully the head is not toast now.
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  #14  
Old 08-10-2009, 09:22 PM
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It's not in a critical location but it's just annoying to have to do extra work and get it fixed. I have another broken stud on the exhaust manifold to extract as well but that stud is not so hard as the other one...

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