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  #1  
Old 08-11-2009, 02:13 PM
dieseldan44's Avatar
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Question Guide Rod Mount removal with spring compressor

Guys

I bit the bullet and bought a Klann spring compressor. I figured I'll be needing it for years and itll pay for itself.

Can I get in and remove the guide rod mount easily without taking the LCA out fully (with spring / shock removed)? Or do i definitely have to remove the LCA to get the guide rod mount out?

This is on the '85.

dd

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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  #2  
Old 08-11-2009, 02:18 PM
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I watched this done as I did not have tools, on a lift they were able to R/R without spring or shock removal. Do not know if it was a recomended procedure. These guys were MB guys and had been doing t for years. I know this, be very careful with the spring, if it gets away from you it will travel through whatever is in its path
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  #3  
Old 08-11-2009, 02:32 PM
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Either way you are going to stress the hell out of the LCA bushings if you do not remove the LCA. The LCA has to swing WAY forward to get that rear mount out of the car.

You can do it with out removing the spring. Here is how I did mine:

Guide Rod mount fun

Since you have the compressor, you might as well go ahead and remove the spring, remove the LCA from the car and check the condition of the Lower BJ's. Then install new LCA bushings/front and rear guide rod mounts.
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  #4  
Old 08-11-2009, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snookwhaler View Post
Either way you are going to stress the hell out of the LCA bushings if you do not remove the LCA. The LCA has to swing WAY forward to get that rear mount out of the car.

You can do it with out removing the spring. Here is how I did mine:

Guide Rod mount fun

Since you have the compressor, you might as well go ahead and remove the spring, remove the LCA from the car and check the condition of the Lower BJ's. Then install new LCA bushings/front and rear guide rod mounts.
That's what Ill do then. Ball joints are OK - they were replaced by the PO and look good. The LCA bushings look okay, but one side is a little dried up. I will need an alignment anyways.

The whole come along / ratchet strap thing scares the heck out of me and id rather put in the extra time to replace those bushing while im in there.

dd
__________________
-------------------------------
'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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  #5  
Old 08-11-2009, 03:29 PM
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dd,

Sitting here thinking about your plan... If you decided NOT to replace the LCA bushings. Once the car is on stands/supported and the spring is out of the car, remove the shock. This way you can access the forward Guide rod mount. Unbolt the forward Guide Rod mount and thread the rear Guide Rod mount in. This way you can swing the LCA forward just a little to get the Guide Rod out of the forward mount. Once the forward mount is out of the LCA you can position the rod to remove the rear mount. Do you follow?

You may have to position the LCA/UCA/steering knuckle assembly up and down (supported by a jack) to finagle the forward mount out of the LCA. But, I'm sure it would work.

AJ
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  #6  
Old 08-12-2009, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snookwhaler View Post
dd,

Sitting here thinking about your plan... If you decided NOT to replace the LCA bushings. Once the car is on stands/supported and the spring is out of the car, remove the shock. This way you can access the forward Guide rod mount. Unbolt the forward Guide Rod mount and thread the rear Guide Rod mount in. This way you can swing the LCA forward just a little to get the Guide Rod out of the forward mount. Once the forward mount is out of the LCA you can position the rod to remove the rear mount. Do you follow?

You may have to position the LCA/UCA/steering knuckle assembly up and down (supported by a jack) to finagle the forward mount out of the LCA. But, I'm sure it would work.

AJ
I definitely follow. Thats sort of what I was thinking before. Having not been in this area before i didnt know if it was a hair brained scheme. Sort of like the Haynes manual depiction of prying a diff oil seal with 200k on it out with a screwdriver.

But, given further thought, Ill probably just do the full front end rebuild and be done with it since I'll have the compressor and the time to do it.

How long does a front end job take (no ball joints) approximately the first time around? Here's my list:

- LCA bushings
- Guide rod mounts (at frame and at LCA)
- tie rods
- shocks (have to be removed anyways)
- idler arm check and probably rebuild
- steering coupling (its cracked)

dd
__________________
-------------------------------
'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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  #7  
Old 08-12-2009, 03:42 PM
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I don't see why you fellows don't drop the aluminum carrier for the guide rod mount. It's two cap screws and it's in your hand. You can then easily replace the guide rod mount while working like a gentleman with a vice.

This approach seems to make much more sense than to struggle with the guide rod mount underneath the vehicle. I simply cannot imagine doing it via that approach.
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  #8  
Old 08-12-2009, 04:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
I don't see why you fellows don't drop the aluminum carrier for the guide rod mount. ...
What aluminum carrier? There is no such thing on a w123. On a w126.. Now that has one.
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  #9  
Old 08-12-2009, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldan44 View Post
.....
How long does a front end job take (no ball joints) approximately the first time around? Here's my list:

- LCA bushings
- Guide rod mounts (at frame and at LCA)
- tie rods
- shocks (have to be removed anyways)
- idler arm check and probably rebuild
- steering coupling (its cracked)

dd

I would set aside the whole day for a first timer.

On a side note with your history of rust, I'd make sure the LCA is not too rusted inside where the bushings go.
Ask diesel911, he had a good time with it.
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  #10  
Old 08-12-2009, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
What aluminum carrier? There is no such thing on a w123. On a w126.. Now that has one.
Ahh..........I see.........said the blind man. I figured the two were the same..............

What holds the housing of the guide rod mount to the body?
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  #11  
Old 08-12-2009, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Ahh..........I see.........said the blind man. I figured the two were the same..............

What holds the housing of the guide rod mount to the body?
There is no housing. The guide rod mount bolts directly to the body.
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  #12  
Old 08-12-2009, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
There is no housing. The guide rod mount bolts directly to the body.
The mount has some feature for the attachment of a cap screw??

Totally different from the W126..........a round cylinder that presses inside an aluminum housing (the carrier).

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