Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 08-12-2009, 09:48 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 12
What's a 1983 300D Parts Car Worth?

Well, I've learned my lesson. And you all have the right to say I told you so.

The 1983 Euro 300D I just bought won't pass PA inspection because my mechanic says the frame is totally rusted out. He says the carpet is holding the thing together. Mechanically, it's very sound and has no serious problems that he saw.

So I need to try to resell it, recoup some of my money, and start my MB diesel search once again.

What can I reasonably expect to ask for this car? It has about 191k miles, is a 4-speed manual transmission, has relatively new tires, and internally is in fairly good shape.

Thanks.

__________________
1983 Euro 300D, 191k
1997 VW Jetta, 121k
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 08-12-2009, 10:23 AM
UriahT's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 387
Well, if you have the time and inclination, you'd be better off parting the thing out yourself than selling it as a parts car.

Since the 4 speed has the 300D flywheel, you'll get some ok money if you sell that as a stand alone "kit." In fact, I'd even be interested in it. Then pull interior, engine, differential, body parts not rusted, etc.

Selling it as is, you won't get more than 1k, and that's pushing it, assuming even a mint interior. Or buy a 300D, 240D or 300CD with a bad engine or tranny and start swapping parts yourself. Can't go into a wagon because there's no SLS pump on your head.
__________________
I-------------------------------------1981 300TD, Thistle Green, 140K------------------------------------I
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 08-12-2009, 11:41 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 2,156
I paid $400 for a parts car and was worth every penny. I saved a lot of many on parts and made the $400 worth it.
__________________
1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 08-12-2009, 11:53 AM
ImBroke's Avatar
Diesel way of Life
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Cleveland, NY
Posts: 2,215
I would think of a price, and put it up for sale. If it doesn't sell, lower the price. Remember, a lot of us on here buy low and sell high (if we sell). Personally, I'd love the drivetrain for my California 300D. However, after getting the Altima road ready, my spare cash drawer is empty.
__________________
05 Mustang GT Vert (3) 101k
12 TSX Wagon Tech (66k) (93k)
03 CL Type S manual (157k) 163k
06 Subaru Outback base (135k) 153k
95 Del Sol (93k) 290k
93 Stealth ES (167k) 169k
18 Silverado 2500 LTZ Midnight (212) 4700
90 350SDL 253k

http://mefi.us/images/fuelly/sig-us/86307.png
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 08-12-2009, 12:23 PM
BodhiBenz1987's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: East Coast
Posts: 3,005
Just move to Delaware and keep it ... we'll pass anything. My 240D is probably as bad as yours, and it passed. Not only that, but I hadn't done the brakes yet, and it turned out the car had nearly zero caliper function ... and it passed.

Seriously, though, if the engine is good, with only 191k on it, plus a 4-speed, you should be able to get some decent money for it on this forum. The euro factor might help too. If I didn't already have a hopeless rust pit, I'd come up and grab it.

The problem you'd have with parting it out is that can take some time, plus you'll have the car taking up space for a while. And eventually you end up with a shell you have to tow to the junkyard. But, if you have the experience and the time, my guess would be you'd get more money that way.

You could also get a second opinion on the rust. But, as anyone here will tell you, unless you want a project, rust of any kind is bad news.
__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 08-12-2009, 12:33 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada.
Posts: 6,510
Find a good basic simular car with a blown engine or transmission and swap your powertrain into it. A car with a major problem is worth very little.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 08-12-2009, 12:34 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 12
Waiting for an estimate

I drove the car straight to a reputable body shop not far from my house. He's going to put it on the lift and see what it needs and get back to me in a few hours with an estimate.

Funny, my mechanic was apocalyptic about the rust while this guy -- the body shop guy is saying, "well, it's not that bad -- I know someone who'll pass it."

The thing is, I'd like to get it dealt with structurally. And although I've only had the car for a few days, I'm infatuated. It's great to drive, I love how it handles, and would willingly put in some money to fix it up. It'd still be cheaper than buying a new car, which I can't afford anyway.

I didn't pay that much for the car. I'm wondering where to draw the line as far as $$ for bodywork. Or if I should just cut my losses and sell it to someone who'll use it for parts. I don't have the facilities to part it out myself.

Advice? (Beside I never should've bought the thing to begin with. . . )
__________________
1983 Euro 300D, 191k
1997 VW Jetta, 121k
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 08-12-2009, 12:37 PM
oldsinner111's Avatar
once a happy man
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: bristol,tn
Posts: 5,826
Well heck do what we do.Weld a dang frame on it.
__________________
plant, and animal life matter. human's had their chance.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 08-12-2009, 12:46 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada.
Posts: 6,510
Because they are a unibody and not a really framed car. You have to judge yourself what you will drive. Safety is a real issue if chassis components start separating from mounting points. Careful inspection is the rule.

We have a low milage gas 126 sitting that upon examination the front end rust has progressed to the point it would be insanity to put it on the road. This car has low milage and a perfect interior. We purchased it for a song for the euro lights and interior.

With the low miles the 3.8 engine and transmission etc are very good. It has 120k real miles. It is fixable of course. The time required would not justify it though.

Also the type of rust progression is important. If truly localised it is not so bad. If it has spread all over the place it becomes very impractical. Even doing it ourselves. Plus that is only possible if you already own welding equipment etc. Adding all those items to the cost really puts it through the roof.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 08-12-2009, 12:46 PM
BodhiBenz1987's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: East Coast
Posts: 3,005
Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDame View Post
I drove the car straight to a reputable body shop not far from my house. He's going to put it on the lift and see what it needs and get back to me in a few hours with an estimate.

Funny, my mechanic was apocalyptic about the rust while this guy -- the body shop guy is saying, "well, it's not that bad -- I know someone who'll pass it."

The thing is, I'd like to get it dealt with structurally. And although I've only had the car for a few days, I'm infatuated. It's great to drive, I love how it handles, and would willingly put in some money to fix it up. It'd still be cheaper than buying a new car, which I can't afford anyway.

I didn't pay that much for the car. I'm wondering where to draw the line as far as $$ for bodywork. Or if I should just cut my losses and sell it to someone who'll use it for parts. I don't have the facilities to part it out myself.

Advice? (Beside I never should've bought the thing to begin with. . . )
Well, having not seen the car, I'm guessing the rust is probably similar to what my 240D has ... floorpan, rocker panels and wheel wells. The floorpans have to be replaced ... you don't want rusted out floorpans if the vehicle is involved in an accident, as they do affect the structural integrity. There are a lot of things you could let go or patch up yourself and just drive it until it falls apart. I started doing a lot of bodywork myself on the fenders and was real pleased with the result. Unfortunately I also discovered horrible rocker panel and floorboard rust, which I don't feel I should drive with. So it's going in the garage and hopefully I can learn to weld and fix it up. I don't need to; I just like the car and don't want to junk it. Hopefully the body shop guy can give you an honest answer to what's necessary and what's just cosmetic. It's entirely up to you how much you spend on the car. Some of us have spent a lot; others are quicker to count their losses. If you're 100 percent focused on good financial moves, then you'd be best to sell the rusty car and buy something rust-free for a bit more money. However, if you are particularly in love with this car, and want a project, you may be able to spend a little money on this and have something drivable that you can tinker with.

My guess would be to fix all the rust on it at a body shop would cost a fortune. But, let us know what you find out!
__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 08-12-2009, 12:56 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 2,156
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldsinner111 View Post
Well heck do what we do.Weld a dang frame on it.

no point in trying to fix something that has blown out floor pans, rocker panels, and structural damage. by the time you add the cost of parts time and labor you will have exceeded the value of the car. The parts car i bought had blown out floor pans, rocker panels and structural damage but it made a really good parts car.
__________________
1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 08-12-2009, 12:58 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 12
Yeah, your 240D and my 300D sound like they have the same body issues.

Will let you know as soon as I hear from the guy about cost. Just from a parking lot eye-balling he said "in the thousands." I figured there was no harm in leaving it and having a proper estimate done. (It'll be the only thing about this car that hasn't cost me any money yet!)

Good thing I hung onto my junker of a Jetta. She's looking better to me by the minute.
__________________
1983 Euro 300D, 191k
1997 VW Jetta, 121k
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 08-12-2009, 01:18 PM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central FL
Posts: 3,068
The body shop guy may be thinking he has a gravy train.

Rust is like cancer. You may be able to slow it down, but it will be back.

Like cancer, you absolutely have to cut it all out to bare white metal. If you leave anything, the oxidation reaction continues, and takes more and more, and your patch pops out, and you start over again a few months later. Then there is also rust forming an inch away in the same panel, that you can't see yet, that is eating its way out from behind. It never ends.

Rick
__________________
80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

Last edited by rs899; 08-13-2009 at 06:31 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 08-12-2009, 05:33 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 12
The Damage

repair and refinish right rocker panel
repair and refinish right front and rear rails
repair and refinish left rocker panel
repair and refinish left front and rear rails
repair and refinish right wheel wells
repair and refinish left wheel wells

$3210 total

It's heart-breaking. The car is an utter joy to drive.

So. . . anybody interested in a 4-speed 1983 Euro 300D? Cheap? The a/c works. . .
__________________
1983 Euro 300D, 191k
1997 VW Jetta, 121k
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 08-12-2009, 06:11 PM
mild insomniac, maybe? :D
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 954
Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDame View Post
repair and refinish right rocker panel
repair and refinish right front and rear rails
repair and refinish left rocker panel
repair and refinish left front and rear rails
repair and refinish right wheel wells
repair and refinish left wheel wells

$3210 total

It's heart-breaking. The car is an utter joy to drive.

So. . . anybody interested in a 4-speed 1983 Euro 300D? Cheap? The a/c works. . .
$3210 sounds a lot better than the $10k for rust removal alone I was quoted.....

__________________
Matthew McIvor

2016 E350 4Matic Black/Black
2007 GL450 4Matic with Off-Road Pkg Silver/Black
1995 E300 Diesel White/Gray
1994 S600 Euro Black/ Black Velour
1986 560SL Blue/Blue/Gray
1986 190E Blue/Blue 93k
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:44 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page