What's a 1983 300D Parts Car Worth? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

DieselDame · #1 08-12-2009, 09:48 AM

Well, I've learned my lesson. And you all have the right to say I told you so.

The 1983 Euro 300D I just bought won't pass PA inspection because my mechanic says the frame is totally rusted out. He says the carpet is holding the thing together. Mechanically, it's very sound and has no serious problems that he saw.

So I need to try to resell it, recoup some of my money, and start my MB diesel search once again.

What can I reasonably expect to ask for this car? It has about 191k miles, is a 4-speed manual transmission, has relatively new tires, and internally is in fairly good shape.

Thanks.

UriahT · #2 08-12-2009, 10:23 AM

Well, if you have the time and inclination, you'd be better off parting the thing out yourself than selling it as a parts car.

Since the 4 speed has the 300D flywheel, you'll get some ok money if you sell that as a stand alone "kit." In fact, I'd even be interested in it. Then pull interior, engine, differential, body parts not rusted, etc.

Selling it as is, you won't get more than 1k, and that's pushing it, assuming even a mint interior. Or buy a 300D, 240D or 300CD with a bad engine or tranny and start swapping parts yourself. Can't go into a wagon because there's no SLS pump on your head.

Oracle12345 · #3 08-12-2009, 11:41 AM

I paid $400 for a parts car and was worth every penny. I saved a lot of many on parts and made the $400 worth it.

ImBroke · #4 08-12-2009, 11:53 AM

I would think of a price, and put it up for sale. If it doesn't sell, lower the price. Remember, a lot of us on here buy low and sell high (if we sell). Personally, I'd love the drivetrain for my California 300D. However, after getting the Altima road ready, my spare cash drawer is empty.

BodhiBenz1987 · #5 08-12-2009, 12:23 PM

Just move to Delaware and keep it ... we'll pass anything.

My 240D is probably as bad as yours, and it passed. Not only that, but I hadn't done the brakes yet, and it turned out the car had nearly zero caliper function ... and it passed.

Seriously, though, if the engine is good, with only 191k on it, plus a 4-speed, you should be able to get some decent money for it on this forum. The euro factor might help too. If I didn't already have a hopeless rust pit, I'd come up and grab it.

The problem you'd have with parting it out is that can take some time, plus you'll have the car taking up space for a while. And eventually you end up with a shell you have to tow to the junkyard. But, if you have the experience and the time, my guess would be you'd get more money that way.

You could also get a second opinion on the rust. But, as anyone here will tell you, unless you want a project, rust of any kind is bad news.

barry123400 · #6 08-12-2009, 12:33 PM

Find a good basic simular car with a blown engine or transmission and swap your powertrain into it. A car with a major problem is worth very little.

DieselDame · #7 08-12-2009, 12:34 PM

I drove the car straight to a reputable body shop not far from my house. He's going to put it on the lift and see what it needs and get back to me in a few hours with an estimate.

Funny, my mechanic was apocalyptic about the rust while this guy -- the body shop guy is saying, "well, it's not that bad -- I know someone who'll pass it."

The thing is, I'd like to get it dealt with structurally. And although I've only had the car for a few days, I'm infatuated. It's great to drive, I love how it handles, and would willingly put in some money to fix it up. It'd still be cheaper than buying a new car, which I can't afford anyway.

I didn't pay that much for the car. I'm wondering where to draw the line as far as $$ for bodywork. Or if I should just cut my losses and sell it to someone who'll use it for parts. I don't have the facilities to part it out myself.

Advice? (Beside I never should've bought the thing to begin with. . . )

oldsinner111 · #8 08-12-2009, 12:37 PM

Well heck do what we do.Weld a dang frame on it.

barry123400 · #9 08-12-2009, 12:46 PM

Because they are a unibody and not a really framed car. You have to judge yourself what you will drive. Safety is a real issue if chassis components start separating from mounting points. Careful inspection is the rule.

We have a low milage gas 126 sitting that upon examination the front end rust has progressed to the point it would be insanity to put it on the road. This car has low milage and a perfect interior. We purchased it for a song for the euro lights and interior.

With the low miles the 3.8 engine and transmission etc are very good. It has 120k real miles. It is fixable of course. The time required would not justify it though.

Also the type of rust progression is important. If truly localised it is not so bad. If it has spread all over the place it becomes very impractical. Even doing it ourselves. Plus that is only possible if you already own welding equipment etc. Adding all those items to the cost really puts it through the roof.

BodhiBenz1987 · #10 08-12-2009, 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DieselDame

I drove the car straight to a reputable body shop not far from my house. He's going to put it on the lift and see what it needs and get back to me in a few hours with an estimate.

Funny, my mechanic was apocalyptic about the rust while this guy -- the body shop guy is saying, "well, it's not that bad -- I know someone who'll pass it."

The thing is, I'd like to get it dealt with structurally. And although I've only had the car for a few days, I'm infatuated. It's great to drive, I love how it handles, and would willingly put in some money to fix it up. It'd still be cheaper than buying a new car, which I can't afford anyway.

I didn't pay that much for the car. I'm wondering where to draw the line as far as $$ for bodywork. Or if I should just cut my losses and sell it to someone who'll use it for parts. I don't have the facilities to part it out myself.

Advice? (Beside I never should've bought the thing to begin with. . . )

Well, having not seen the car, I'm guessing the rust is probably similar to what my 240D has ... floorpan, rocker panels and wheel wells. The floorpans have to be replaced ... you don't want rusted out floorpans if the vehicle is involved in an accident, as they do affect the structural integrity. There are a lot of things you could let go or patch up yourself and just drive it until it falls apart. I started doing a lot of bodywork myself on the fenders and was real pleased with the result. Unfortunately I also discovered horrible rocker panel and floorboard rust, which I don't feel I should drive with. So it's going in the garage and hopefully I can learn to weld and fix it up. I don't need to; I just like the car and don't want to junk it. Hopefully the body shop guy can give you an honest answer to what's necessary and what's just cosmetic. It's entirely up to you how much you spend on the car. Some of us have spent a lot; others are quicker to count their losses. If you're 100 percent focused on good financial moves, then you'd be best to sell the rusty car and buy something rust-free for a bit more money. However, if you are particularly in love with this car, and want a project, you may be able to spend a little money on this and have something drivable that you can tinker with.

My guess would be to fix all the rust on it at a body shop would cost a fortune. But, let us know what you find out!

Oracle12345 · #11 08-12-2009, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldsinner111

Well heck do what we do.Weld a dang frame on it.

no point in trying to fix something that has blown out floor pans, rocker panels, and structural damage. by the time you add the cost of parts time and labor you will have exceeded the value of the car. The parts car i bought had blown out floor pans, rocker panels and structural damage but it made a really good parts car.

DieselDame · #12 08-12-2009, 12:58 PM

Yeah, your 240D and my 300D sound like they have the same body issues.

Will let you know as soon as I hear from the guy about cost. Just from a parking lot eye-balling he said "in the thousands." I figured there was no harm in leaving it and having a proper estimate done. (It'll be the only thing about this car that hasn't cost me any money yet!)

Good thing I hung onto my junker of a Jetta. She's looking better to me by the minute.

rs899 · #13 08-12-2009, 01:18 PM

The body shop guy may be thinking he has a gravy train.

Rust is like cancer. You may be able to slow it down, but it will be back.

Like cancer, you absolutely have to cut it all out to bare white metal. If you leave anything, the oxidation reaction continues, and takes more and more, and your patch pops out, and you start over again a few months later. Then there is also rust forming an inch away in the same panel, that you can't see yet, that is eating its way out from behind. It never ends.

Rick

DieselDame · #14 08-12-2009, 05:33 PM

repair and refinish right rocker panel
repair and refinish right front and rear rails
repair and refinish left rocker panel
repair and refinish left front and rear rails
repair and refinish right wheel wells
repair and refinish left wheel wells

$3210 total

It's heart-breaking. The car is an utter joy to drive.

So. . . anybody interested in a 4-speed 1983 Euro 300D? Cheap? The a/c works. . .

matthias08 · #15 08-12-2009, 06:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DieselDame

repair and refinish right rocker panel
repair and refinish right front and rear rails
repair and refinish left rocker panel
repair and refinish left front and rear rails
repair and refinish right wheel wells
repair and refinish left wheel wells

$3210 total

It's heart-breaking. The car is an utter joy to drive.

So. . . anybody interested in a 4-speed 1983 Euro 300D? Cheap? The a/c works. . .

$3210 sounds a lot better than the $10k for rust removal alone I was quoted.....