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  #16  
Old 08-20-2009, 02:18 PM
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My exhaust ends about a foot past the turbo.

I've had people tell me it's surprisingly quiet.
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  #17  
Old 10-22-2009, 02:05 PM
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So I finally took my exhaust in to be mended, and the news isn't good. Apparently the pipes themselves are too corroded to weld to, they would just burn right through.

I look like I'll be buying a new/picking a used exhaust. From downpipe back.

Daw, whatcha got for me? Anything for a NA TD?
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  #18  
Old 10-22-2009, 02:26 PM
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Here's another question. Apparently the exhausts are different between 80 and the rest of the years. However the rear section is wagon specific, and the 80 year doesn't have it yet the rest of the years do. If I have the center section for the 1980 and the rear section from say an 81, will they work together?

Thanks guys.
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  #19  
Old 10-22-2009, 03:59 PM
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Post Routine Exhaust Service

Just take it to your local independant muffler shop and let him have at it ~

I just did this and deleted the center resonator and increased the pipe size to match the down pipe from the exhaust manifold .

Sounds good , not noisy and runs much better , accellerates faster , better fuel milage etc. , etc.

It'll be about 50 % less than buying Mercedes parts from any supplier .

Be SURE to buy the 107 (SL & SLC) hangers , they're improved by haing a link of chain inside the rubber so they'll never fall off .
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  #20  
Old 10-22-2009, 04:42 PM
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^Crap, already ordered the ones for the TD. Oh well. they weren't too expensive.

I'll take it to another place and see what they say. This place pretty much just looked at it, said "no" and that's it.
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  #21  
Old 10-22-2009, 05:19 PM
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I like the soda can idea but aluminum cans rip pretty easy. I would try to get a can of cream corn or something thats a similar size
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  #22  
Old 10-22-2009, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MBeige View Post
Isn't there supposed to be a resonator in that area?

not all w123's have the resonator. i believe it was standard after a certain model year
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  #23  
Old 10-22-2009, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwnate1 View Post

Be SURE to buy the 107 (SL & SLC) hangers , they're improved by haing a link of chain inside the rubber so they'll never fall off .
good advice since i need to buy a pair myself--got a part number?
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  #24  
Old 10-22-2009, 09:46 PM
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Tell them to straight pipe it.
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  #25  
Old 10-22-2009, 10:07 PM
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^Hahaha, too late =]

Btw, you coming down December 5th?
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  #26  
Old 10-22-2009, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by colincoon View Post
^Hahaha, too late =]

Btw, you coming down December 5th?
huh? for what?
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  #27  
Old 10-22-2009, 10:42 PM
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central FL gtg
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1976 240D 190,000 miles
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  #28  
Old 11-12-2009, 02:56 PM
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$45 later she's fixed. Kinda a crude job, but hey it works a lot better then it did! I think the exhaust was rotting away even before Tyler bought Norm, it's properly quiet and I can definitely feel a power increase.

Now all I have to do is put the new muffler hangers on, and maybe a diesel purge for the hell of it.
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  #29  
Old 11-12-2009, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colincoon View Post
$45 later she's fixed. Kinda a crude job, but hey it works a lot better then it did! I think the exhaust was rotting away even before Tyler bought Norm, it's properly quiet and I can definitely feel a power increase.

Now all I have to do is put the new muffler hangers on, and maybe a diesel purge for the hell of it.
Hey, if you put the hangers on AFTER you weld the pipes, there may be uneven strain on the individual hangers - causing one or more to fail prematurely. Ask me how *I* know this...

Also, corroded/rusted pipes can be repaired by a good welder (if they're not too far gone) - just gotta turn down the oxy on the acetylene torch a bit and convert that rusting back into iron.

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  #30  
Old 11-12-2009, 06:56 PM
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Too late now, but everything looks okay.

One thing I am peeved about is that they welded a tack weld to the bracket that holds up the downpipe. Usually there is a U shaped piece that holds it down. It rattles, but oh well. At least it's a part that can be replaced.
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