Hey my new to me lovely wagon 300td has a leaking fuel injector pump; but it seems that the fuel is leaking where the screws are and they were a bit loose. But after driving it for about 5090 miles it started loosing power and after about 10 miles it just stopped restarting. First thing "I thought was clogged filters because I had just started using a 50/50 blend of biodiesel. The biodiesel is of high quality and filtered down to one micron. I changed the filters even tho they didn't seem to need it and no change, no start. What could it be? I'm not ready to pay over a thousand dollars to see if its the pump without testing it myself first. I need some tests to perform and ideas of what tocheck. I love this car!

Need more info. Under what conditions did it start loosing power? At highway speed? Does the engine turn over with the starter at the same speed it always did? Have you checked the oil? Are your glow plugs working?

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Glow plugs fine. It was hot when it happened, I was driving on the freeway. slowed down to side streets thinking I could milk it a while like I do when the filters get clogged; but it didn't help and within 10 miles it got so bad that it would no longer start. a bit of fuel must have seeped because the next day it started for a second.
Engine turns over just as quickly as it always did. Its not a cold start situation because it was warmed up as I say when this happened.

See if you can identify the part that is leaking from this site or give us a picture. Also What year and model do you have.
http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.asp?TP=1&F=123193&M=617%2E952&GA=722%2E120315&CT=M&cat=143&SID=07&SGR=045&SGN=01

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

1987 6 cyl 3.o liter 300 TD Wagon.
It looks like the leaking was coming from the screws on the side. I tightened the screws till they were snug, but not till after the car was running. On average the screws turn about a whole rotation, so I would say that possibly high pressure oil could make its way out. I can't see this as being a bad pump because they are supposed to last a lot longer than 200,000 miles, right? Take a look at these pics and see if it looks like the leaks are coming only from the screws. One pic shows a full filter. If I try to start it it will start just for a second, not enough to rev up or anything but just as if there is a teaspoon of fuel.

Attached Thumbnails

       

The metal fuel line at cyl #4 is wet and possibly DV #1 & 2 to a lesser extent.

Waste a can of brake cleaner on the top and sides of the IP and get it clean and dry before doing more "tightening".

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Crankcase Oil is splashed around behind the cover on the Fuel Injection Pump; no Fuel back there and I doubt if there is something back there that would cause your other problem.

The Fuel Injection pump cover Gaskets on the older Bosch Fuel Injection Pumps were Rubber; when rubber deteroiates when you tighten down on it it just mushes out and does not seal well.
Also I believe the opposite end of the screw holes is exposed to the Oil. If you pull the screws out 1 by one; clean the Screw Threads and put a drop of Loctite on them and put them back in the Loctite will will seal the threads preventing the Oil from seeping out and at the same time prevent them from loosening.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I can't see the other side of the engine but I assume the trap has been replaced per the recall.

Two things to try unrelated to fuel leaks:

1) There's a bolt that takes a 17 or 19mm socket on the #1 exhaust runner. Remove this plug and see if the engine starts. If so, the oxidation catalyst that replaced the trap oxidizer is clogged. The cat is behind the transmission in the same year sedan.

2) Pinch the fuel line that returns to the fuel tank. Follow the flexible lines that connect each injector and lead back to the big fuel filter. From that junction, follow the black rubber hose to the driver side inner fender. That's the black rubber hose to pinch. Cut a section of scrap hose bigger than the black rubber hose to protect it while clamping with vice grips. If the engine starts with the return hose clamped, the checkvalve on the return side of the IP is stuck open and not allowing sufficient fuel pressure to the injectors.

Could be a number of other things but these are easy and cheap things to get out of the way.

Sixto
87 300D

Good tip about the locktite. I will be getting taking care of it in the next couple of days. The more I think about it, the less I'm concerned about how serious the leaks are; but why wont it start?

Ok I'll try these things and report back...thanks!

Might want to check in here concerning the no starting.

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/Index/602_603index.html

If you loosen the Hard Line Nuts up by the Injectors and crank the Engine are you getting Fuel there?

Bypass your Fuel Tank by getting some longer Fuel Inlet Hose and hooking it to the pre-filter. Run the hose into a container with clean Diesel Fuel and see if you can get fuel up to those loosend Injector Hard Line Nuts; if you do tighten them and try to start the Car.
This also might give you an idea if the Fuel Supply Pump is moving any fuel.
If the car starts like this it indicates a problem from the Hose disconnectin to the Fuel Tank like a plugged Fuel Tank Screen or Fuel Tank Vent to name a few.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks, Its about top rain hard here and for days, so i will be trying to work on it inbetween. Right now my roof is about to leak if I don't get up there. I will post results.