piston moving because air is not leaking out around valves or rings. reason for pressurizing the cylinder was to see if i could pin point the leak. nothing leaked pressure built till piston moved which moved the cam which opened a valve and then it stopped. so the problem is not a loss of pressure due to a bad intake or exhaust valve. nor is it due to leakage oround the cylinder rings. only thing left and that is incorrect fuel delivery. coupled with finding a wetted injector nozzle (injector was an initail suspect and was moved toanother cylinder previously to see if anything changed, and if anything things got slightly worse over the week.)

did that make sense. it did when he explained it to me. i'm not always good at explaining other peoples explainations.

You have a bad injector which has washed down a cylinder and will give poor compression. Run it long enough that way and you will destroy that hole. I have seen a poor spray pattern on an injector burn a hole in a piston and make a mess out of the cylinder.

__________________
Mark
82 300SD 110k
91 Caprice SS
92 Jetta TD
97 Cadillac Concours(300hp)
84 Celebrity 4.3L diesel

thanks. i pulled the bad injector and replaced wirh one from a non turbo car till my new ones come in.

Frank, glad to hear you solved the problem. Sounds like I may be experiencing similar.
I just registered the car last week and it has 111k miles. It sat for a while and only did about 10k total this past 10 years.

Seems like a miss on low rev's and when you get to 3k on rev's counter seems fine. I replaced all filters and dropped strainer from tank. still not much power on takeoff. I didn't do compression test but it may be a suspect injector.
Thinking of doing bosio replacement.

Chris

check out this thread before you do.

est injectors for a 617.952 engine

i wanted to know what the best injectors were. this is the answer i got. really help-full.

okay got my "brand new factory rebuilt" injectors and hurried up and put them in. car ran worsew than it did with the old injectors and far worse than it does with the NA engines injectors. first tried to start it and it stumbled and died. turned it over again and it ran like a gasser with with wires crossed (ya know 1 on 4 and 2 on 1) so i turned it over a third time and held the peddal down to keep it running. i had to hold the peddal for about 10 min. and then it would stay running. it sounded absolutely terrible the whole time. it was like i could hear the injectors squirting. car was making all sorts of pinging grumping and clacking sounds and steady missing and stumbling at idle. couldn't move it.

so i pulled em all back out and rigged up some old injector lines so i could hook them to the IP with out being in the engine. had em pointing toward fender. none streamed. all sprayed a cone.

ended up putting the na injectors back in and will take these to be tested and balanced at a shop. can the IP be tested as well? how would i do that and what would i look for?

so car continues to smoke white. still doesn't like to wake up. a little slower off the line. once up and going/warm - pulls steady, runs strong, can accellerate up hill (we have tunnels for river crossings here and i can hit the bottom of the river at 55 and come out the tube at 60 -65 depending on what's in front of me). still ave tween 20 and 24mpg.

i'm at a loss. if the injectors turn out to be okay then what should i be looking at????
timing ? chain stretch?

took my injectors to JG Parks and sons in chesapeake. they popped tested them for free. said they were well within tolerance and had absolutely no issues.

what's next?

if you replaced your injectors you probably got considerable Air in the system which would cause your car to hit and miss like crazy. It would also explain why your car had troubles running with the new injectors. best bet is to get it running and follow a air bleeding on each line. someone can post it as I am not too sure how to do it

__________________
hum.....
1987 300TD 311,000M Stolen. Presumed destroyed

bro frank,
Your symptoms sound a bit like the IP timing. Its easy to check, just do a drip test on No. 1 line, the timing marks were on the front pulley on mine. At least then if timing is ok, thats 1 less thing it could be.

__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

well got them bled. and still rough. thought about timing, but notice that if i spray anything in the snoot it will run untill that is gone, eventually it will pick up and keep going. so i'm thinking i got leak down/by somewhere in the ip. there were a couple of late night cold rainy road side filter changes. potentially (goood chancE) I got junk in my filter and it got to my ip. got a line on a good used IP will try to get it in soon and se what happens.

This car ever or currently on vegatable oil? I have mentally been playing around with the ideal of cleaning injector pumps out. If it gets to the point that you are going to change the injection pump trying a cleanout first will cost you nothing basically.

Also try running that engine with the return line clamped off. It will not hurt the lift pump and mention if things are much better if at all. You may just be the victom of irrregular or unequal amounts of fuel being injected by the elements. A long shot I agree but so easy to do.