Well its time to replace my engine mounts,there worned out,are they a pain in the butt to replace?Also want to do trans mount too Last I did this was on my Volvo 240.

I'm not an expert, but I have done the motor mounts on my old '83 240D and, most recently, had to remove one to access the oil cooler lines in my '85 300sd. I have never tackled the tranny mount, as I didn't feel comfortable crawling that far underneath the vehicle without a lift. With adequate jack stands, I'm sure it wouldn't be an issue for most people.

The motor mounts are held in place by 3 bolts, 2 smaller ones hex key ones that attach the mount to the chasis and a much larger one that attaches the mount to the motor via frames that extend from both the driver and passenger side of the motor. To access the smaller bolts, you must really jack the motor (I used the oil pan as the jacking point). I used a piece of wood between the jack and the oil pan to avoid damaging the pan.

I found the smaller bolts that hold the mount to the chasis relatively easy to undo but a bit awkward to access. Be careful with the bolt that attaches the mount onto the motor. The bolt that attaches the mount to the motor can only be accessed from underneath the car. I would suggest really soaking the mount in penetrating oil before tackling this job. On my 240D, the bolt that held the mount to the motor was a dumb allen key design and had seized, and I ended up rounding this bolt when trying to remove it. My 300SD had a regular hex design for this bolt, and I found it much easier to remove.

Brian
'85 300SD

The mount on the passenger side will probably be the hardest of the two mounts. The tranny mount is easy to replace.
You may also have to unbolt the engine shocks while replacing your mounts.

__________________
DJ


84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617MotorMounts









Above some of the threads.
I jacked the front of the Car up some before I did anything else so I would have room under the Car to work.
I suggest a piece of 3/4 plywood to go above what ever board you are putting under the Oil pan to Jack up the Engine. There is alread a dent in my Oil Pan where the PO did some jacking.
Only lift the Engine up as far as is needed to remov the Mounts; if you keep jacking the Engine up the Bell Housing will top out on the body and you will be trying to lift the whole Car. This may be how the PO dented the Oil Pan.

I had trouble getting in 1 of the big Bolts that goes in through the bottom. I had the trouble because I tightend the other side first.
Insert the bolt on one side an run it in good but do not tighten it.
When you get to the other side you may find that you need a piece of 2x4 or something to lever the Engine around to line up the hole to get the other bolt in.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I am not a mechanic by any means.

The engine mounts are not too difficult to replace, but it does take time. I have had to do it several times in the last 18 months (unfortunately due to bad parts). Usually takes me around 2 hours. Here are some tips:

1. Get Good Mounts (OEM or Lemforder)
1a. Check the engine shocks and associated rubber bits. May need these parts too
2. Make sure you have the tools ready to go with a variety of extensions etc. (if not have a parts store nearby)
3. Read the DIYs and take your time.

Good Luck!

__________________
Big Fred

(RIP Sept '10) 83 300SD Turbo Diesel (aka "Rocky")
(RIP April '10 - Accident) 86 Chevy M1009 CUCV (Blazer) - 6.2L Diesel (aka "Ogre")

If I can do it, you'll be ok Your car might or might not have engine shocks. Check first. If it does, then you'll have to undo them from under the engine before jacking up the engine. The 2 bolts from underneath were a pain in the butt for me. Ended up rounding up one of them. They are hex bolts. The hex bolts from up top are easy to unbolt but a bit harder to reach. To line up the bolts from underneath after replacing the mounts, I would recommend that you bolt them a bit with the car jacked up. Otherwise, they are pain to line up. Good luck!

__________________
1983 300 Turbo-"Nora"
1983 240D Auto "Lucia"-slowest on earth-1st love
1985 300 Turbo-Blue Goose-slowly plucking parts

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o...ly15/mbsig.jpg

Do any of you guys remember what size allen head bits you used, and which extensions?

__________________
Current cars:
2000 ML55 AMG, 174k miles
2003 C240 T-Modell, 202k miles
1995 S320, 207k Miles

CLEAN THE ALLEN HEAD BOLTS OUT BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING TO BREAK THEM LOOSE.

__________________
have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it

Well I did it,the drivers side fell apart,as we pulled it out.Only did this side,the other looked ok,just pull the bottom bolt out,and top two,used small Allen to remove bolt next to engine,took off top shock nut off and jack up engine,not text book,but it work.

Time to look at that transmission mount.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel