So just woke an old girl up after a hibernation....2 years. Set timing statically, set valves, changed oil and fuel filters etc etc. Smoked a bit more than i cared for. Checked timing with the tach and time, reset it for 14 degrees before tdc while running. It got a bit better...but still smokig. so will old diesel (2-3 years0 cause smoking...or what else should I be looking for? All compressions were in the 390 to 410 range, on my cheapy comp tester ( usually reads low, use it more to check that all cyls are close to each other). Forgot to mention injectors were just rebuilt with monarchs.

It sounds like all this engine most likely needs is driving time. If you don't see any specs in the prefilter, then just burn that fuel out of there. If you do see specs then put in some Bio Gard to kill the fungus.

It is likely ( and easy to fix ) that your smoking from sitting that long is your valve stem seals....
If you go down that far to replace them... since one or more of the springs have been in compression and the others Not... and springs are cheap... I would replace the stem seals, the valve rotators ( put them on any valves that might not have come with them ) , springs, upper and lower adjusting nuts...
That way you know you are good to go in that department...those things are all cheap compared to the labor of having to go back in to replace one or more...
Several of those things are mentioned as ' on principal' replace items in the FSM..

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Your probably right. Its been a while since Ive had a 617 head apart. If I fill the cyl with compressed air can I do this without removing the cam??

A old MB mechanic once wrote how when working on a "sat-for-years" diesel engine he would:

-Get motor running to operating temp (80C+)
-Stop engine, then drain oil
-Fill engine crankcase with ATF fluid
-Run engine for no more then 60 seconds
-Stop engine, then drain ATF
-Change filters, refill with proper motor oil.

The gunk and "stuff" that drained out was "impressive"

I have not tried this method-but am tempted with a "sat-for-a-decade" MB I am "fixing" up.

If it was parked with good oil, the oil will still be fluid and lubricate fine, ... it really doesn't go bad (but it can pick up a little condensation when open to air). You'll notice that there isn't an expiration date on oil containers, ... the dinosaurs died long ago.

Diesel fuel is a bit of a different matter. It really doesn't lose much of its properties from sitting as it isn't gasoline, ... but it can get condensation and (unfortunately) microbes can grow in there if there is moisture. Both of these problems will manifest themselves as a weak or non-running car as the filter will plug with microbes, and water will cause the engine to sputter and/or stall once the capacity of the filter to separate it out is exhausted.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff