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  #16  
Old 08-28-2009, 11:48 AM
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Location: Blue Point, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Evans View Post
I hadn't thought about PB Blaster. I'll soak the fittings tonight.

Thanks.
The fittings aren't going to absorb much of that penetrant due to their horizontal configuration. Take a bit of heat from a propane torch and heat the nuts for about 30 seconds. This causes the nut to grow and breaks the corrosion bonds.

When you begin to put torque on the nut, attempt to move it in both directions............DO NOT continue and try to unthread the nut until you're sure that it's not galling the threads. Extreme patience (30 minutes or more) is required during the first 1/4 turn of movement if the fastener is very tight.

Use heat..........use Kroil or PB..........and use patience.
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  #17  
Old 08-28-2009, 11:49 AM
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see if you can locate any aero-Kroil penetrant... it works much better, and it smells SOOOO much better.
if you have a carrier a/c parts place nearby, they stock it. usually a TOTALINE parts depot.
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  #18  
Old 08-28-2009, 11:58 AM
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Cut 'em.

I've got this little Harbor Freight $20 pneumatic reciprocating saw that I use to cut the hard line just in front of the fitting at the filter end if the "nut" won't come off without the nipple that threads into the filter housing. I have a wrench that I've taken considerable material from to hold the nipple, but it is hard getting too much off a wrench that size.

If you're going to jack the engine up a little - I think it makes it much easier - be sure to remove the clips which hold the fan shroud to the radiator. Otherwise the fan blades will catch the top of the shroud and potentially crack the shroud.

Having a "field-modified" 27mm box-end is very helpful, also. Cut the handle roughly in half, and cut a section out of the box to make a flare-nut wrench of sorts. You will also have to remove some material from the outside of what's left of the "box".

Be VERY patient with the fittings on the cooler. Especially on reassembly. If you cross-thread, your day is ruined! I take one of the "nuts" from the old line and use it to clean up the threads on the cooler. Lube it and lap it. Even after having done so, torquing those down is always scary!!

Good luck!

Jay.
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  #19  
Old 08-29-2009, 01:37 AM
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Since I didn`t have a 27mm, I used a 1 1/16in. Cut out the width on the pipe.

One side has to be ground down to clear the injection Pump. wrench is
8 inches long.

Use a 7/8 open end on the cooler as a back up to take the stress off the cooler incase the nut is corroded on.

cooler is aluminium with steel oil cooler line nut.

Use Anti-seiz on the threads when replacing the lines.

There is a fix from MB called "Screwed Nipples" (for real) if the oil cooler threads get stripped.

Charlie
Attached Thumbnails
Engine Oil Cooler Lines on a 126-oil-cooler-line-wrench-007-medium-.jpg   Engine Oil Cooler Lines on a 126-oil-cooler-line-wrench-2-009-medium-.jpg   Engine Oil Cooler Lines on a 126-oil-cooler-line-wrench-013-medium-small-.jpg   Engine Oil Cooler Lines on a 126-oil-cooler-line-wrench-016-medium-.jpg  
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  #20  
Old 08-29-2009, 06:12 PM
Tom Evans
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 179
I changed the oil cooler lines out today. I started out trying not to remove the engine support arm, but realized that it would make the job go faster (which it did). I had changed the lines out 17 years ago so I didn't run into any siezed fittings.

Brian, I left out three important steps.

1. Remove lower hose pulling it out the front
2. Remove upper hose pulling it out of the front
3. Install upper hose from the front
4. Install lower hose from the front
5. De-grease the engine
6. Clean the garage floor
7. Get hosed off before the wife will let me back into the house
8. Have a beer

Without the engine support member in place, the upper hose was easily removed toward the rear.

The bad news...... the oil cooler lines on my wife's 1981 300SD are the same age as my old ones, but they are dry for now!
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81 300SD 291K (still have)
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  #21  
Old 08-30-2009, 09:48 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Blue Point, NY
Posts: 25,396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Evans View Post
I changed the oil cooler lines out today. I started out trying not to remove the engine support arm, but realized that it would make the job go faster (which it did). I had changed the lines out 17 years ago so I didn't run into any siezed fittings.

Brian, I left out three important steps.

1. Remove lower hose pulling it out the front
2. Remove upper hose pulling it out of the front
3. Install upper hose from the front
4. Install lower hose from the front
5. De-grease the engine
6. Clean the garage floor
7. Get hosed off before the wife will let me back into the house
8. Have a beer

Without the engine support member in place, the upper hose was easily removed toward the rear.

The bad news...... the oil cooler lines on my wife's 1981 300SD are the same age as my old ones, but they are dry for now!
Did you remove the entire arm from the block..........or did you simply lift the engine off the mount?

How long did the job take?
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