|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
alkaline battery acid cleaning from electronics
Ok, my R12 sniffer arrived from Ebay...
the guy had not checked it out and the batteries had leaked. He apologized for not even opening up the back and said he would refund.. but he asked if I might be able to clean it... So I got the actual battery connections cleaned and installed new batteries. The light lights up.... checking for beeping comes next.. I have nothing with R12 in it at this time... HOWever, the question is this .... the leak went into the inside of the working mechanism electronics.... how bad I don't know.... But I would like to open that up and spray something which will either clean that crud out.... or neutralize it without hurting the electronics... And I know some of you have this kind of knowledge to share with me... Thanks, Greg PS. It was only a $35 dollar (delivered) Texas Instruments sniffer... but I would like to have it work as long as possible and will not feel good about acid being inside it....
__________________
1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Don't keep secrets from me
I know some of you have this information right at the tip of your tongue...
If I can not clean it and confirm it is working I am going to have to send it back to the guy... and start all over... Thanks Greg How about the normal circuit board spray cleaner for flux ... didn't that come in a spray can ? and would not hurt the electronic stuff inside... right ?
__________________
1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Yes, most any electrical contact cleaner will work, however, it isn't very effective on the severe corrosion. Probably the best is MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) available at home centers in the paint section. Apply it with an acid brush and ensure you are in a well ventilated area and away from any ignition source.
Electronic circuits can be cleaned easily with two thoughts in mind: No power to the circuitry and the circuit must be completely dry before reapplying power. Usually the damage is done when someone gets into too much of a rush and powers it up without waiting for drying, which can take overnight sometimes.
__________________
Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
you might try some Baking soda solution... works on car batteries...
alcohol is a safe solution to spray on electronics. never tried to clean off a battery damaged board... sorry. distilled water is also a good thing to try, but you have to follow up with alcohol and some air to dry it off before you put the batteries back in. Good luck.
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
I would try the baking soda too.
Mixing an acid and a base = a salt & water. So your going to have a salty solution on your hands afterwards. Don't leave it on there too long. washing with distilled water was a good idea. X2 on perfectly dry before powering back up. Danny
__________________
1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles OBK member #23 (\__/) (='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your (")_(") signature to help him gain world domination |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks Guys,
Great suggestions... I do not think there is actual DAMAGE to the circuit board at THIS time.. but clearly leaving any of those acid crystals there is not the smart thing to do.. Will let you know how it goes.. Greg
__________________
1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
That's the wrong approach for an alkaline battery leak. Unlike a car battery, the leakage from an alkaline (they don't call then that for nothing) battery is not an acid, it's a base. So it needs to be neutralized with an acid, like vinegar.
Last edited by tangofox007; 08-28-2009 at 12:12 PM. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
The baking soda paste should neutralise any acidic presence. I would make the paste by mixing the powder with alcohol or the contact cleaner. Washing down afterwards with contact cleaner or alcohol. The plastic safe type or contact cleaner. Make sure the can states safe for plastics.
I do not think the acid can cause conductive paths between traces to remain once the acid residue is removed. Conductive circuit board base material where always a misery to deal with. Acid was never involved as a cause of them to my knowledge. Just sniff a sample of r 12 with the item before concluding with the vendor that everything is okay. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
They are called alkaline batteries for a reason. (Hint: it's not because they are acidic.)
|
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Good point. So the ph of any alcaline battery leakage is going to be towards the base side. Caustics are base. Caustic solutions can be worse than acedic solutions on humans.
They caustic will still attack the traces or almost any metal if unprotected as well. Washing it down well and rinsing with alcohol or contact cleaner a few times should suffice in light of this. I do not know why I thought all batteries were acidic in composition. I should have known bettter. The production of the so called rechargeable alkaline battery was started in my town years ago. I met the inventor of the alkaline battey and the rechargeable alkaline battery at a meeting announcing the start of production here. The plant still exists but I think all they make here is the chargers for them now. They got started because of the enviromental complaints against nicad batteries. The rechargeable alkaline battery has not been a great sucess in my opinion. Actually this plant in Canada was somehow related to the ray o vac battery company in some way. I suspect ray o vac may have collapsed about that time. All I remember is it was kind of strange. Last edited by barry123400; 08-28-2009 at 01:12 PM. |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
LOL, Ok guys...good info....
I do not usually have distilled water here.....but happened to... and poured about half a gallon through the end with the leakage on it....it looked much better afterwards... I can not open the thing up all the way... only a sliver on that end.. and am drying it as we speak... I do not have any opened R12...my only stash is in 12 oz cans.... so I am still trying to figure out how to test that part of its function... I do not think it will sniff 134a.... which I open a can of for the Lincoln once in a while... Any other chemicals which I could get hold of in a reasonable fashion which the unit should react to like R12? Thanks, Greg
__________________
1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Do you have any R12 sitting in a manifold gauge set?
|
#13
|
|||
|
|||
My heated pentode detector works on R12, R22 and R134a. It is more sensitive on CFC's than HFC's, however.
|
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Matt, no because the last time I used it was about 1987 when I put three generic under dash units together and into my Karman Ghia... .. AND more importantly it is the one without the auto closing fitting on the end...
OK Tangofox007 , I will put some 134a into the Lincoln and check it out... but it will be an inclusive test if it does not beep...
__________________
1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#15
|
||||
|
||||
Seems that propane will trip it also, pretty much any flammable gas.
__________________
Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
Bookmarks |
|
|