Should be good for miles to come.

Get a tap to to chase the threads. Lightly oil the head bolt threads before installing.

There's a stretch limit spec for the bolts. If they're longer than spec, they shouldn't be reused. Since your head warped, I wouldn't reuse any of the bolts.

Sixto
87 300D

I have a few questions about the injectors now.

Is it critical that they all go back in the same cylinder?

Also after I put them in is it critical that the little return line *thingies* all line up so that you could draw an imaginary line connecting them which would be parallel to the length of the car... hope that makes sense.

__________________
1992 300D OM602

Ben

Are you gonna "Pop Test" your Injectors? (for proper Release pressure?)
[this would tell you if one or more are out of specs,and need to be balanced]
If not I'd replace the Injectors in the same # cylinder Pre-Chambers they came from.
It's not CRITICAL that you replace each injector in exactly the same Cylinder.
[Without a Compression Test and Pop testing the Injectors it's a Crap Shoot.]
Disclaimer:If you've got different compression Pressure Readings from different cylinders
(outside of specs) the engine is inherently unbalanced as it runs.
If you throw in unbalanced Injectors into the mix...there's even more
"Unbalancement"

Some might claim that "Getting Lucky" enough to place the weaker injectors
into the stronger Cylinders would balance out.[Not Me!]
[AKA Non-Georgia Tech/Auburn approved Diesel Re-Engineering]
[Like taking your Ferrari to the Saturn dealer]

I'd wanna do a compression test ,first to see where I stood.
AND have the Injectors balanced (Replace Injector Nozzles @ same time)...

When you get around to Re-Installing the Injectors,use a NEW heat shield for
each injector (Concave side facing out/upwards) MAKE SURE NONE OF THE OLD
HEAT SHIELD(S) has been left STUCK in the Pre-Chamber hole the Injector goes into.
When you torque the Injectors to proper Specifications...
the little "Nipples" on the sides of the Injectors (For the return lines) will almost NEVER line up longitudinally
(so there's no way to "Line Up" the Return lines)...Don't be concerned (just be careful not to "Prang" the Nipples),just connect the return lines so the end is the "Plugged" hose on cylinder #5 nipple (Firewall) and the last hose
from injector nipple on Cylinder #1 goes back to the proper Banjo Bolt on the fuel filter housing.

__________________
'84 300SD sold
124.128

well I got the everything put back together finally. aaaannnd... still issues.

There are leaks on one of the metal injection lines (cylinder 4) where it connects to the actual injector and at the injection pump. Its really tight on both ends.
It runs rough, it has died a few times about 5-10 seconds after a cold start up. (I'm hoping this is related to the fuel leak, but it's probably timing right?) White smoke comes out of the tailpipe when the engine is cold.
Seems less powerful.

I don't know how to check/adjust the IP timing. but gsxr said that was something to do.

Any ideas?

__________________
1992 300D OM602

Ben

The ball ends of the injector lines are pretty soft. They deform with over tightening then they have to be replaced. Not getting fuel to a cylinder won't cause white smoke.

Borrow or rent the A-B timing light in the tool rental forum for the straight way to set IP timing. You can get close enough with an IP locking tool. The tool has a slot which locks a tab that rotates with the IP shaft -



Set the tab visually just above center in the RIV port on the side of the IP. Put the locking tool in place with the slot oriented to engage the tab. Rotate the engine slowly until the locking tool pin recedes to indicate engagement. Read the crank pulley gradients against the TDC indicator. Ideally you'll see 14* ATDC. If not, remove the locking tool, set the crank to 14* ATDC, loosen the 4 bolts holding the IP tight against the block and use the same tool as you adjust IP timing using the turnbuckle.

The caveat is the o-ring between the block and IP might not appreciate being moved after 17 years in place and you'll have a dribble of engine oil pooling near the driver side engine mount.

Sixto
87 300D

It affects 602, 603, and 606 engines from late 1992 through 1995. The range of chassis numbers is shown in this document.

__________________
Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

You need to fix that fuel leak... any leak on the high pressure side of the fuel system (metal lines) can cause rough running and general problems. Worst case, you may need to replace that one hard line.



IP timing would be the next thing to check. After that, I'd want to pop test the injectors. Then re-do a compression test. If ALL that checks out... the injection pump itself is suspect. I'm assuming you have a clean fuel filter and no fuel supply problems...