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  #1  
Old 08-31-2009, 01:02 PM
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240D Valve Cover Gasket

So, I'm going to change out a leaking valve cover gasket. Ordered a FelPro.

Anything special I need to know? I'm going to take photos of the vacuum lines, etc. I searched through the forums and saw 7ft lbs, as well as 10ft lbs of torque on the bolts. Which is best?

Any maintenance that I should do while the cover is off? Odo broke at 150k, however based upon the condition of the vehicle, I really don't think there are that many miles on it.

Thanks!
Kat
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  #2  
Old 08-31-2009, 01:22 PM
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Valve adjustment!
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  #3  
Old 08-31-2009, 01:23 PM
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I don't think many of us do the torque thing. Just do not over tighten. You'll know when to stop as the nut will only go so far. Beyond that you'll be squeezing the gasket.

I haven't seen anyone complain about tearing up their gasket so far.
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  #4  
Old 08-31-2009, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by katubma1 View Post
Ordered a FelPro.
Chances are great that you ordered an Elring packaged in a Felpro box at twice the going price.
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  #5  
Old 08-31-2009, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tobybul View Post
I don't think many of us do the torque thing. Just do not over tighten. You'll know when to stop as the nut will only go so far. Beyond that you'll be squeezing the gasket.
There are stops on the valve cover that will cause the nut to bottom before the pressure on the gasket is excessive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tobybul View Post

I haven't seen anyone complain about tearing up their gasket so far.
The stops must be working as intended!!!
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  #6  
Old 08-31-2009, 03:49 PM
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Don't cross thread the nuts.....it is a pain in the donkey to get those studs replaced

ask me how i know!
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  #7  
Old 08-31-2009, 06:24 PM
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Do the valve adjustment, check timing chain elongation. I didn't use a torque wrench on either of my OM61x valve covers, I just didn't tighten them super tight.
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  #8  
Old 08-31-2009, 06:36 PM
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Would be a good oppurtunity to lube up the linkage. When reassembling the linkage, put a little white lithum grease on the balls before you snap them back into their sockets. Like you said, take pics and label things so that you can recall how it all goes back when you are done.

X2 on the valve job.
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  #9  
Old 08-31-2009, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by tankowner View Post
X2 on the valve job.
That might require removing a bit more than just the valve cover!!!
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  #10  
Old 08-31-2009, 08:03 PM
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Take a Photo of your Linkage before you remove your Valve comver so it all goes backe where it came from.
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  #11  
Old 08-31-2009, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
That might require removing a bit more than just the valve cover!!!
Okay, sorry - you got me. What I meant was X2 on the valve adjustment . . . not valve job . . . valve adjustment.
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  #12  
Old 09-01-2009, 06:58 AM
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Use a car wash to clean off the valve cover and surounding area of gunk. don`t want to have crud falling into the engine innards. Cam, rockers etc...

I use a rag and wipe up any oil off the mateing surface of the head, before it runs down the side of the engine.

I also use some gas or carb cleaner on a rag to get the mateing surfaces clean before dropping the cover back on.

I place some flat washers between the nuts and valve cover to keep the nuts from gouging into the aluminium.
those thin flat wavy lock washers.

I don`t torque them, just snug them down. doesn`t take much.

I have pulled some VC at PNP that are really screwed up from over tightening.

Charlie
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  #13  
Old 09-04-2009, 10:32 AM
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Thank you everyone for the comments. I'll order up the MB wrenches and while I wait for those to arrive I'll do some reading on how the valve adj is done. Thanks again!
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  #14  
Old 09-04-2009, 10:51 AM
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if you have a diesel shop near you, you might wanna order some injector heat shields, and pull your injectors out, and have the shop test and balance them. then when you go to adjust your valves, you won't need special wrenches, because the injectors will not be in the way. if you are going to pull your injectors, use a long handle breaker bar, and POP against it, to loosen the injectors from the head DO NOT USE STEADY PRESSURE OR YOU WILL NEED TO BUY AN EXPENSIVE TOOL TO PUT THE PRECHAMBER RINGS BACK IN THE HEAD... ask me how I know...
the most important thing I can think of on changing the vc gasket is CLEAN the valve cover. and make sure it's dry before you put the new gasket on. some use fishing line to tie the gasket to the vc at each hole. keeps it from falling off as you finagle the thing back on the head. use a slip knot to pull the fishing line back out once the cover is placed tightly. don't use any sealant. it's not needed.
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  #15  
Old 09-04-2009, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by katubma1 View Post
Thank you everyone for the comments. I'll order up the MB wrenches and while I wait for those to arrive I'll do some reading on how the valve adj is done. Thanks again!
I am half-way through my first valve adjustment on my 240D (got started last night and will finish up this evening). I am suffering through with regular wrenchs this time so that I can really appreciate the correct ones next time .

What year is your 240D?

Here is one link that might help: Trying to do a valve adjustment on my 240D...

Also, you can do an advanced search here for "240D valve adjustment" using the "Titles Only" function and you should find other useful insights.

I have no idea when the last valve adjustment on mine was, but they are all tight and getting the locking nut free of the adjusting nut hasn't been easy - so I am guessing it has been quite some time.

Diesel Giant has a nice write-up, too. http://www.dieselgiant.com/valveadjustment.htm

Good luck.
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'95 E300D ("Tank") - 231,000 miles
'79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold)
'83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer)
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