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  #1  
Old 09-01-2009, 02:01 PM
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Question 300SDL Oil leak near engine mount

All my project cars leak oil near the engine mount. Is this a common problem on the SDLs or 603 engines? I have seen it in a number of 300SDL when I was checking them out in Craigslist. It leaks slowly and form an oil puddle. Could it be the IP as it is the only item, I think, mates to the engine block in that area? Pictures attached. Any info would be appreciated.

btw: the dangling wires are the remains of the burnt out wire to the compressor. Another restoration item but it can wait.




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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

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1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.
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  #2  
Old 09-01-2009, 02:37 PM
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Proceedure seems to be to degrease everthing till it is clean and run the Engine and see exactly where it leaks.

However, looking at your pic that I barrowed part of it could be the bottom pan of the IP is leaking or towards the arrow pointint to the front of the IP it could be that the O-ring that seals the drive end of the IP is leaking and the Oil is moving back under the IP.

Running your fingers under the IP will give you some information on that.

I cannot see any evidence of it but some members have had the O-rings on the IP shafts leak.
Attached Thumbnails
300SDL Oil leak near engine mount-z-oil-leak.jpg  
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Last edited by Diesel911; 09-01-2009 at 03:00 PM.
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  #3  
Old 09-01-2009, 06:25 PM
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I recently repaired an oil leak on my 601 that looked the same as yours; in my case it was the side cover plate gasket on in IP. I had to remove the intake to access the leak and then it was obvious and easy to fix. No removal of the IP. I ordered the correct gasket from bosch but it was too stingy to seat well and kept leaking, so I make one out of leather and that fixed the leak for good. That oil leak had destroyed the motor mount on that side of the car, which is where you might be heading....
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  #4  
Old 09-01-2009, 07:26 PM
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Until you get the oil leak stopped. Wash off the mount and wrap it with aluminuium foil. Funny thing is the foil seems to stay in place well. I was initially hesitant about that. Might save you a motor mount down the road.
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  #5  
Old 09-09-2009, 01:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barry123400 View Post
Until you get the oil leak stopped. Wash off the mount and wrap it with aluminuium foil. Might save you a motor mount down the road.
You know.....thats smart. Mines got a pool of diesel, until I get it fixed though, I just might do this.
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  #6  
Old 09-09-2009, 01:36 PM
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My SDL has the same leak in the same place and has since I bought it in 2004. I am fairly sure it is coming fron the bottom of the IP but it might be the side cover on the Intake side. Strange thing is that if I use the car regularly (which I haven't been lately) it hardly leaks at all, but if I let the car sit for a few weeks () there is a nice pool of oil on and in the LH engine mount casting. Serves me right for not using it I guess.
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1999 Porsche Boxster Arena Red/Savanna Beige
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  #7  
Old 09-09-2009, 02:01 PM
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If it's engine oil, I'd guess the o-ring between the IP and block. IMO oil seeps too slowly past the IP side and bottom covers to pool like that. IP leaks usually mean a grimy mess, not a pool. Get your fingers to the ridge of the block above the oil pan mating surface and see if you can trace wetness to the front of the block to that loose plastic shield under the front of the IP.

If it's fuel, I'd guess the fuel thermostat needs a new o-ring or new hoses.

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87 300D
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  #8  
Old 09-09-2009, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dervman View Post
My SDL has the same leak in the same place and has since I bought it in 2004. I am fairly sure it is coming fron the bottom of the IP but it might be the side cover on the Intake side.
Do you mean the side cover on the engine block side of the IP? There isn't one.



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  #9  
Old 09-09-2009, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
If it's engine oil, I'd guess the o-ring between the IP and block. IMO oil seeps too slowly past the IP side and bottom covers to pool like that. IP leaks usually mean a grimy mess, not a pool. Get your fingers to the ridge of the block above the oil pan mating surface and see if you can trace wetness to the front of the block to that loose plastic shield under the front of the IP.

If it's fuel, I'd guess the fuel thermostat needs a new o-ring or new hoses.

Sixto
87 300D
That is a nice clean IP. I always suspect it is the o-ring between the IP and the block. I need to clean the area real good and find the leak but I know it is engine oil for sure.

If it was the o-ring, how easy it is to replace? I am afraid to pull the IP as it is critical to the engine and I could easily mess up everything.
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.
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  #10  
Old 09-09-2009, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ah-kay View Post
If it was the o-ring, how easy it is to replace? I am afraid to pull the IP as it is critical to the engine and I could easily mess up everything.
The difficulty in replacing the seal increases exponentially as a function of your unwillingness to unbolt the IP.
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  #11  
Old 09-09-2009, 03:50 PM
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It's not difficult but not for the inexperienced. You have to pull the IP back a few inches which means it has to come off. That's the easy part. It has to be timed going back in. That's the daunting part. I was lazy and left the timer on the chain. Then it went together sort of blind - I pushed the IP into place with my right hand while guiding the splined shaft into the timer with a finger through the timer. The splines are too fine for me to keep alignment with scribe marks.

When you pull the IP, might as well replace as many seals as you can. I posted a list of IP seal part numbers some years ago. I hope it was after the server failure. And it'll never be easier to replace glow plugs in the car

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87 300D
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  #12  
Old 09-09-2009, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
Do you mean the side cover on the engine block side of the IP? There isn't one.

Sixto
87 300D
GOOD. That's one less place to worry about!
It is probably either the bottom plate or more likely the O-Ring. The oil is definitely seeping down the block behind the IP. Regretfully, the car is going up for sale soon so I'll probably leave the new owner something to do.
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1999 Porsche Boxster Arena Red/Savanna Beige
1986 Porsche 928S Goldweiss/Brown
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  #13  
Old 09-09-2009, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
It's not difficult but not for the inexperienced. You have to pull the IP back a few inches which means it has to come off. That's the easy part. It has to be timed going back in. That's the daunting part. I was lazy and left the timer on the chain. Then it went together sort of blind - I pushed the IP into place with my right hand while guiding the splined shaft into the timer with a finger through the timer. The splines are too fine for me to keep alignment with scribe marks.

When you pull the IP, might as well replace as many seals as you can. I posted a list of IP seal part numbers some years ago. I hope it was after the server failure. And it'll never be easier to replace glow plugs in the car

Sixto
87 300D
Thanks for the info. I will clean it up and check but as Tangofox has indicated, I am very reluctant to pull the IP as I am an electronic guys and not an engine guy. But, if the oil gushes like a river then I will cross that bridge. In the mean time it will be a medium to low priority job.
__________________
Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.
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  #14  
Old 09-09-2009, 11:55 PM
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I have the exact same problem with my '87 350SDL. I read all these threads, went out and cleaned it all off and traced it to the bottom plate of the IP. It is definitely not coming from the block or the block side of the IP.
So, can I just put a new gasket on the bottom plate without having to remove the IP? Where do you find these gaskets?
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  #15  
Old 09-10-2009, 12:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bio350 View Post
I have the exact same problem with my '87 350SDL. I read all these threads, went out and cleaned it all off and traced it to the bottom plate of the IP. It is definitely not coming from the block or the block side of the IP.
So, can I just put a new gasket on the bottom plate without having to remove the IP? Where do you find these gaskets?
A Bosch Authorized Fuel Injection Shop should be able to get you the bottom pan gasket.
You will need the numbers that are on the Fuel Injection Pumps Number Plate incase they need it to look up the part number.

I do not know if there is room to change the gasket or not. Are the Bolts that hold the bottom plate on Torx or Screwdriver type Bolts?

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