W123 Aftermarket Window Regulators? Anyone Tried Dorman?
 

The left front regulator on my wagon broke today (cracked pot metal frame where the motor connects) and in sourcing a replacement I found Rock Auto offered a Dorman aftermarket regulator which comes with a lifetime warranty for $60. That's well under half the best price I could find for OE ($150). Anyone have any experience with this part? I have already ordered one so I guess I could be the tester if nobody else has but I could find no posts about them on the whole site.

Update, part received and installed.
 

Since nobody responded I assume I was the test case. I received the regulator today from Rock Auto. It appears to be a perfect copy of the OE part - the only difference being it does not have the M-B PN on it and it is made in Taiwan. It fit and worked perfectly :D

So, for you purists don't buy it unless you will be satisfied by saving at least 60% on a part nobody will see and which comes with a lifetime warranty as opposed to the M-B 1 year warranty. Since it takes less than an hour to R&R one it isn't really a big deal if this one breaks again during the car's lifetime.

One warning...you do need to save the small nylon slide which rides along the window's track from the old regulator and transplant it to the new one as it does not come with it. Since I didn't throw my old one away until after I was happy with the install it wasn't an issue for me but anyone who orders one thinking it is "complete" will be disappointed.

As an FYI Dorman also makes manual regulators which you could use to replace them if one breaks or to convert a power window car to roll-up windows. Also, the price is about the same at $60, so either way it is a substantial savings.

they work but I perfer an OEM one. I have a few from a parts car I stripped

Everyone is entitled to their opinion. The problem with the way that they fail is due to fatigue in the metal casting which appears to be a low-grade material we used to call "pot metal" but could just be cast steel. The fatigue failure is a product of time (cycles, vibration, etc.) and reclaiming a used one might be getting one that is close to the end of its life already, but it could easily last as long as the rest of the car too so who knows. It separates by breaking where the motor attaches to the rest of the frame. It is most highly stressed when the window is lowered or raised to its end points and the button isn't released.

In my case, I am not fortunate enough to have a supply of used ones so my choice was to pay $$$ for OE, $ for this aftermarket or hunt for a used one with duct tape and a stick holding my window up. I'm pleased with the replacement part and thought I'd just let everyone else facing the same decision know about it that there's a reasonable alternative to the OE part.

Also, Rock Auto's service was excellent. I ordered it over the holiday weekend and it was shipped out Tuesday and arrived here this morning by fedex ground for $6 shipping charge.

interesting, according to them the coupe and 4 door front regulators are the same. also, the ones I saw listed were for manual windows and required some rivits to be installed? is this correct?

The best way to find the correct part is to google the M-B PN (from the EPC or off the old part) and then add "dorman" to it (ie 1237202746 dorman). Some ebay listings also show up in the search.

The Rock Auto website does not really cross reference every model of car to these, so, for example mine were for a 1982 240D because that's what google linked to with the M-B PN at Rock Auto's site but when I searched their site for a regulator for a 1981 300TD none was found. I saw the part was cross reference to the M-B PN on their site so I wasn't concerned that it said it was for a 240D and I was ordering it for a 300TD.

As for rivets, there were none needed on the one I got. There seems to be a generic note that says something to the effect that "rivets, if needed will be supplied" but mine was bolt-out, bolt-in. I can't say for the manual ones but I would only guess that unless the old ones were riveted in you would probably not have to worry about it.

I also found the manufacturer's website:

https://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-bin/vm91corp30r/pagepro_disp.w?clt=hwrap1&pagepro=Dorman%20Products

This also works best if you have the OE part number.

yes I went to the Dorman site. I would like to find a set of the new style rear coupe regulators that supposedly fixed the bind and break issue.

I bought a New Rear Window Regulator thinking it would be an Aftermarket one with the thought that they might make it stronger and was sent and Origional Equipment one wit the Mercedes Star and all on it.
I made a steel plate to reinforce it so it will not warp in my lifetime.

Thanks!
 

Marty,

'Appreciated.

i ordered online a new aftermarket window regulator and will be deliver two days from now. I guess i did the right choice of choosing this aftermarket part, this will be my first time to use aftermarket.

So how did this Dorman part ever hold up? My driver's window just went out and the OEM part is now list in the $700s, available in the $440s. The Dorman would be a nice savings.

I believe the Dorman front Door Window Regulators for a 123 are are Manual Ragulators.

Good Lord; about 4 years ago I replced the right Rear Power Window Regulator and it was around $150; about a year and 1/2 ago it was $225 today the same Regulator is $411!!!

Update: I found a source of the Left Rear Power Window Regulator for $348 but that may or may not include shipping.

For which of your Mercedes?

I know that the rear power regulators are about $450-$500 from MB. But did you know you can get manual regulators for around $70 from MB... They bolt right in. The handle stem sticks through the switch hole. You can put some kind of bezel behind the handle to cover the square hold from the old switch. I used this example to solve my problem with my jammed rear regulators.

Has anyone had a similar experience with the front door regulator replacement prices?

Dont know if anyone know this but on the w123 there is no stop point for the motor and regulator. That is if you raise the window and keep your finger on the switch the window goes up and will continue to load the motor and regulator until you take your finger off the switch. I just bump the switch once with my finger to take the load off. This is especially true for those that have old window channels where there is no buffer at all. New channels give you a cushion effect that helps reduce the load. This is the main reason why regulators fail.