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  #31  
Old 09-09-2009, 05:09 AM
otto huber's Avatar
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Location: Alameda California
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White walls look good on that car. I have the same car and color, so I'm rooting for you.
I tried using bondo for the first time a couple of weeks ago on one of my rear quarter panels. What a PITA! You need a good mask when you're working with that stuff. I'll stick to the wrenches, and pay someone else to handle all the chemicals involved with body work.
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  #32  
Old 09-09-2009, 06:58 AM
daw_two's Avatar
diesel enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 5,434
Quote:
Originally Posted by matthias08 View Post
I only need 4...
4 for your car......4 for the "next" car?
or
maybe 4 for someone's else's car?
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Germantown, TN

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Current Car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
Cluster Needles Paint
New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more
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  #33  
Old 09-09-2009, 08:02 AM
mild insomniac, maybe? :D
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 954
Quote:
Originally Posted by daw_two View Post
4 for your car......4 for the "next" car?
or
maybe 4 for someone's else's car?
I only know one other person in dayton with a 123.....

and I doubt i'll buy another, until after college...

maybe I'll come back to you before grad school, so like... 2.5 years?!?
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Matthew McIvor

2016 E350 4Matic Black/Black
2007 GL450 4Matic with Off-Road Pkg Silver/Black
1995 E300 Diesel White/Gray
1994 S600 Euro Black/ Black Velour
1986 560SL Blue/Blue/Gray
1986 190E Blue/Blue 93k
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  #34  
Old 09-09-2009, 08:47 AM
KarTek's Avatar
<- Ryuko of Kill La Kill
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Bahama/Eno Twp, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987 View Post
Right now I'm about throw my paint guns in the ocean, though. I'm terrible, terrible at painting.
Don't give up! You really need someone to show you personally how to set up the gun, what to watch for and how to move when painting.

I basically taught myself to paint but still had someone to show me the first time. Check out this discussion on prep and paint:

car painting

I painted this car about 6 years ago and I consider it a "fair" paint job. I can do a lot better now but even after painting about 10 cars and front clips, I don't consider myself a great painter. It just takes a lot of parctice.

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  #35  
Old 09-09-2009, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KarTek View Post
Don't give up! You really need someone to show you personally how to set up the gun, what to watch for and how to move when painting.

I basically taught myself to paint but still had someone to show me the first time. Check out this discussion on prep and paint:

car painting

I painted this car about 6 years ago and I consider it a "fair" paint job. I can do a lot better now but even after painting about 10 cars and front clips, I don't consider myself a great painter. It just takes a lot of parctice.

Thanks. I wish I could find someone who knows how to paint who could just watch what I'm doing and give me tips, but I don't know anyone so I'm kind of just going by trial and error. The front valence and under the headlights actually looks pretty good right now, but the sides around the headlights on the fenders I just can't get right. Right now I'm using a single-stage enamel, and I think I might try a base-clearcoat approach instead for that area ... one big problem I'm having is that it's very "chalky" at the border of the area I'm painting, and if I try to finesse it after it dries, it just turns grayish and matte (I guess you can't finesse enamel?). It's also laying down kind of clottishly so maybe it's not thin enough?

I've had a lot of luck using the gun to apply varnish or lacquer on wood, but for some reason the paint is just a bear.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--369,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--137,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--3,700 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--32,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #36  
Old 09-09-2009, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987 View Post
Thanks. I wish I could find someone who knows how to paint who could just watch what I'm doing and give me tips, but I don't know anyone so I'm kind of just going by trial and error. The front valence and under the headlights actually looks pretty good right now, but the sides around the headlights on the fenders I just can't get right. Right now I'm using a single-stage enamel, and I think I might try a base-clearcoat approach instead for that area ... one big problem I'm having is that it's very "chalky" at the border of the area I'm painting, and if I try to finesse it after it dries, it just turns grayish and matte (I guess you can't finesse enamel?). It's also laying down kind of clottishly so maybe it's not thin enough?

I've had a lot of luck using the gun to apply varnish or lacquer on wood, but for some reason the paint is just a bear.
You should probably get a book for tips. Are you using a new HVLP gun or an old one? I'm using an old one and I learned that I gotta use the right pressure, move the gun around in the right manner... There's a lot to it. I used base and clear and my painting has turned out alright. Good color, but not quite the shine of the factory job. I'll just keep practicing.
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  #37  
Old 09-09-2009, 04:17 PM
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And Matthias08, if you have the time/money to learn how to weld, you should. Will save you lots of money and you'll have a good skill that can't be outsourced.
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  #38  
Old 09-09-2009, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEBalles View Post
You should probably get a book for tips. Are you using a new HVLP gun or an old one? I'm using an old one and I learned that I gotta use the right pressure, move the gun around in the right manner... There's a lot to it. I used base and clear and my painting has turned out alright. Good color, but not quite the shine of the factory job. I'll just keep practicing.
I am using a new HVLP, which I just bought. I've tinkered a lot with settings but haven't quite gotten the hang of the motion ... I think it actually hurts me that I have a past as an artist ... I want to do everything slowly and carefully, and I need to move quick and steadily. I did find out today that I should be using hardener with my enamel in addition to reducer. I also bought some strainers, which might help keep the filter in the gun from getting gummed up. The shine has actually been great with the enamel. However, it's just not smooth ... and the borders where my paint job ends are chalky and dull. The guy at the paint shop thought the hardener might help that. Hopefully that and a little more practice and I'll get it right.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--369,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--137,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--3,700 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--32,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #39  
Old 09-09-2009, 04:28 PM
BodhiBenz1987's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEBalles View Post
you'll have a good skill that can't be outsourced.
Sounds neat.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--369,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--137,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--3,700 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--32,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #40  
Old 09-09-2009, 04:50 PM
KarTek's Avatar
<- Ryuko of Kill La Kill
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Bahama/Eno Twp, NC
Posts: 3,249
CC,

One thing I can tell you about technique is that when you pull the trigger, notice that there's an air only position and an air and paint position. When you get ready to paint a section, pull the trigger to the air only position and hold it. Then move the gun and pull the trigger full on as you cross the piece. When you come to the end of a section, only release the trigger to the air position, then move back in the opposite direction pulling the trigger all the way.

Repeat this back and forth across the section. You should have the effect of the constant hiss of air with the intermittant pfft of paint spraying with each stroke.

Also, hold the gun an even distance from the surface, don't move it in an arc.
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  #41  
Old 09-09-2009, 09:36 PM
mild insomniac, maybe? :D
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 954
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by KarTek View Post
CC,

One thing I can tell you about technique is that when you pull the trigger, notice that there's an air only position and an air and paint position. When you get ready to paint a section, pull the trigger to the air only position and hold it. Then move the gun and pull the trigger full on as you cross the piece. When you come to the end of a section, only release the trigger to the air position, then move back in the opposite direction pulling the trigger all the way.

Repeat this back and forth across the section. You should have the effect of the constant hiss of air with the intermittant pfft of paint spraying with each stroke.

Also, hold the gun an even distance from the surface, don't move it in an arc.

good to know!
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Matthew McIvor

2016 E350 4Matic Black/Black
2007 GL450 4Matic with Off-Road Pkg Silver/Black
1995 E300 Diesel White/Gray
1994 S600 Euro Black/ Black Velour
1986 560SL Blue/Blue/Gray
1986 190E Blue/Blue 93k
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