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  #31  
Old 09-15-2009, 07:41 PM
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UPDATE on psedo diagnostic efforts....

(1) Yes, I live in the tourist town of Branson Missouri

(2) I've had two mechanics that "specialize" in diesel; one is GREAT and INEXPENSIVE, but he keeps the car for months at a time, even for the simpliest of things... but still he can be trusted 100% to be fair, honest, and do things correctly. Sadly, he is 30 miles North in a town called Highlandville, and again, this is my only way to transport my kiddos to and from school or run errands so he can't have it indefinitely like when I had an extra car.

The other mechanic, well, he's done diesels forever, I haven't had the best luck with him years back, but he's close, he makes appts, and I should be able to get the car back same day. I think he is basically honest and fair (or I hope so). I have that appt on Monday at 8:30am

(3) My car has in excess of 500,000 miles, the odometer thingy quit working at 520,000 and I've probably put another 5K on it since, about a year ago. One day it just stopped, as did my gas gauge.

(4) I decided to get a bit "clinical" about trying to figure out so I could better describe what is going on, so... here's my take....

When I am in Park, Reverse, or Neutral nothing seems to stop the vibrating and shaking (or the noise), it won't "smooth out" no matter what I do (other than put it in forward gear). Draws horribly negative attention at stop lights (not to mention embarrassing).

When at the stoplight I can keep the car in gear, use the foot brake (of course, after all its a red light) AND rev the rpm's up to over 10rpms and it starts to level out (and quiet out, and smooth out, and so forth).

I do worry what that can do, but it makes sitting at the stoplight a bit more bearable (embarrassment and scared wise).

Question:
I wonder, in a sitting still position, in gear, and rev-ing up the rpms, would it smooth out (noise, shaking, and vibrating wise) like it does if it were motor mounts or any of those externally engine type things? Also noting, when it is not in a forward gear and I attempt the same (rev to smooth it out) it doesn't work, it just sounds same but louder.

Lastly, I know I have not done her (my car) justice, she's obviously taken really good car of me over the years, but to be honest with everyone, I am raising two kids and for the past 4-5 yrs my income dropped from 100K a year to around 20K, and I treat all money situations as a "prn" (as needed) basis, and my children's needs (along with regular bills) has taken precedent, and until the loaning road trip, she hasn't seemed (yes, I know, seemed) to need anything. I NOW REALIZE oil changes etc are what keeps her running that 500K+ miles and I want her to last another 500K.

As much as I hate getting dirty & sweaty, and oh do I hate it, I do it to mow the lawns (and one is on a cliff so its quite the job), and I love my car and owe it to her to take better care of her and am going to stay with this forum (unless I drive you all crazy with my endlessly long narriative scenarios and questions) and learn how to take care of her, at least some basics (what I use to refer to as "guy stuff") and not only save the $$$$ of labor, but know she's getting what she needs, WHEN she needs it.

Sure glad I didn't jump in and start pulling things off I thought were fuel filters, seems like I was wrong in BOTH cases.

Thanks for all your support, the great descriptions, the pixs (that was too cool), and your patience.... I hope when you all read this that in forward gear verses not helps make more sense of it and not muck it up more.

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  #32  
Old 09-15-2009, 08:03 PM
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If the engine in your car is the original, I would be very cautious about investing any substantial amount of money into it. It is nearing the end of it's useful life, if it has not already reached it. You could easily be much further ahead by putting the money you will invest in repairs into a lower mileage example.
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  #33  
Old 09-15-2009, 08:10 PM
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I'm wondering if the engine mounts are collapsed? Otherwise it sounds like you may have lost a pi$ton which is not a good thing in you case.
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  #34  
Old 09-15-2009, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
If the engine in your car is the original, I would be very cautious about investing any substantial amount of money into it. It is nearing the end of it's useful life, if it has not already reached it. You could easily be much further ahead by putting the money you will invest in repairs into a lower mileage example.
I'd save that assessment for after the diagnosis. Not many engines make it that far or beyond, especially without regular maintenance, but nonetheless I would never scrap a car based on the assumption that it's near the end of its useful life. If it's a collapsed motor mount (or two), I don't think it would be a poor choice to have them replaced. However, I certainly would at this point have an experienced mechanic look it over and give you an assessment. If it needs $2,000 worth of work, given your circumstances, you may want to consider buying one in better condition for that much money. If it needs $500, and is otherwise running OK, you might be just as well to fix it and be more vigilant about maintenance. But I'd wait until you know the outlook. Either way, it's your choice and a matter of what you can afford.
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  #35  
Old 09-15-2009, 08:38 PM
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Hooee, half a million miles and years since an oil change. What's the over/under on this thing going another 1,000 miles?
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  #36  
Old 09-15-2009, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gayle View Post
When I am in Park, Reverse, or Neutral nothing seems to stop the vibrating and shaking (or the noise), it won't "smooth out" no matter what I do (other than put it in forward gear). Draws horribly negative attention at stop lights (not to mention embarrassing).

When at the stoplight I can keep the car in gear, use the foot brake (of course, after all its a red light) AND rev the rpm's up to over 10rpms and it starts to level out (and quiet out, and smooth out, and so forth).
So it doesn't smooth out when you put it in neutral and rev it? That strikes me as a bit odd but I'm not an expert. Other thing that crossed my mind is perhaps a bad injector that leaving you running on four cylinders at idle and maybe functioning at higher RPMs? Someone else can chime in if that's an idiotic idea. I do think in that event it would be independent of gear.

At this point it could be so many things that you could go nuts trying to find it ... and could be causing more damage by driving it. Is there anyone who could lend you a car, or give your kids a ride to school? If so, you could leave the car with your mechanic and let him get you started. If it's any one of the various things that have been mentioned here, he'll know right away. Then you can at least find out the degree of what you're dealing with here. That would be my advice. Of course, you're always welcome here ... if you get it sorted out at the mechanic, we'll take it from there and get you going with some maintenance.

Oh yeah, those things aren't "guy stuff"!!! Chicks car be car nerds too! I am one.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #37  
Old 09-15-2009, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gerkebi View Post
Hooee, half a million miles and years since an oil change. What's the over/under on this thing going another 1,000 miles?
Well ... if the car had tip-top maintenance the first 450,000 miles, maybe it's got a chance. Then again, I tend to be overly optimistic about cars. You gotta figure if it's made it to half a million, it's been taken care of at some point.

I would not want to see the Blackstone report on that oil, though.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #38  
Old 09-15-2009, 09:34 PM
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Good point, BB. Gayle needs to get the facts, as you suggest. However, were I a betting man...oh, never mind, let's just find out what's going on with this thing.
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  #39  
Old 09-15-2009, 09:45 PM
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Trouble shooting on a keyboard is hit or miss but....I tend to think its mounts. Sounds like something has busted loose and at idle is wondering all over but under forward torque is settles down and is held in place. park, nuetral and reverse it still vibrates. Should be pretty easy and quick to tell by a mechanic. I agree with others I wouldn't invest too much on a 500,000 mile car with spotty maintenance. Also just my two cents but don't sell your kids short on being able to help. That is IF they want to. I was changing Ford starters with no help when I was around your boys age and my boy was changing oil for 2$ plus parts when he was ten with my supervision. yeah mistakes will be made but in the big picture it's cheap school tuition. I know guys that went to automotive tech schools for about $6000 and I wouldn't let them change my oil. Good luck
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Last edited by DocSarvis; 09-15-2009 at 10:36 PM.
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  #40  
Old 09-15-2009, 10:18 PM
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I had the exact same symptoms with the exact same temporary cures in my 84 SD. Had to use one foot on the brake, the other to rev to 1000 rpm and it would smooth out.

It was my passenger side mount and it was ugly. New mount and I was back smooth.
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  #41  
Old 09-15-2009, 10:30 PM
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Springfield has a fair number of W123's around town. Should be an import shop with experience. I'd be glad to help you out but I'm in Columbia. I'm pretty sure there are members here from southwest Missouri, so hopefully they'll chime in.
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  #42  
Old 09-15-2009, 10:58 PM
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You go Fuzzball!!

It sounds like "The Fuzz" has nailed it.
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  #43  
Old 09-15-2009, 11:06 PM
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Dang this is a tough crowd, no credit for the Doctor?????
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  #44  
Old 09-15-2009, 11:45 PM
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The Doctor is IN!
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  #45  
Old 09-16-2009, 12:54 AM
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Gayle,

As others have stated, my first impression of your problem is that you have some bad (if not nearly non-existent) motor mounts. You can actually check this out on your own. Pop the hood, then go stand by the drivers side tire and look down into the engine compartment. You are looking for an "arm" that comes off of the bottom of the engine, the end of which sits on top of an arm that comes off the frame of the car. Between these two arms is the suspect motor mount. Now, the mount is probably covered by a metal piece that might make it difficult to see, but it should be under there (or whatever remains of it). What you are really looking to confirm right now is if there are chunks of degraded rubber falling off the mount. Stick a flashlight down there and feel around with your fingers. If you want me to take a pic of what the "arms" and mounts look like on my car I will - no problem.

When i bought my '83 the mounts were so bad that the whole car shook like mad. I bought the car in Springfield and drove it back up to Columbia - it shook so bad that my hands and arms were numb by the time I got home . Upon instpecting the mounts I found that one was basically gone - all the rubber had deteriorated. After replacing the mounts the car is MUCH better.

Also, the collapsed mount caused the entire engine to shift down and forward and the pulley for the power steering pump was rubbing against the metal frame that holds the washer fluid resevoir - you can look for things like that too that will clue you in.

Check out the mounts and let us know what you see. Or takes pics and post and, again, if you need to see pics just ask.

Good luck.

PS. I live in Columbia - which is a little far, but if you have any reason to be up here i would be happy to look it over for you. I might be close to Branson in about two weeks - going to Springfield to pick up a parts car.

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