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  #1  
Old 09-19-2009, 09:10 PM
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w123 bearing carrier replacement

alright so I have loosened the 46mm nut that holds the two drive axles together. Next I took the bolts off that hold the bearing carrier in place.
Now I need to remove the driveshafts from the flex disks.

The process to remove the bolts from the drive axles and the flex discs perplex me. I don't have a 4 point hydraulic lift. So how am I supposed to rotate the flex discs so I can get to the bolts?

I was going to lower the car and roll it a couple feet. and hopefully that would do it. ?

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  #2  
Old 09-19-2009, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lobu View Post
alright so I have loosened the 46mm nut that holds the two drive axles together. Next I took the bolts off that hold the bearing carrier in place.
Now I need to remove the driveshafts from the flex disks.

The process to remove the bolts from the drive axles and the flex discs perplex me. I don't have a 4 point hydraulic lift. So how am I supposed to rotate the flex discs so I can get to the bolts?

I was going to lower the car and roll it a couple feet. and hopefully that would do it. ?
Make sure both rear wheels are off the ground and the car is in neutral. Then you can turn that thing all day long to access the bolts.

Scott
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1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000
1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000)
1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold)
1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold)
1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!)
1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold)
1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold)
1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.)
1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold)
1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold)
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  #3  
Old 09-19-2009, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott98 View Post
Make sure both rear wheels are off the ground and the car is in neutral.
Unless a limited slip differential has been retrofitted, one rear wheel off the ground is adequate.

Remember, "Park" isn't very effective with the driveshaft disconnected. There was a recent news story about someone who failed to consider that. That was his final mistake.

Be sure to matchmark all of the driveshaft components so they go back together in the original confuguration.

Last edited by tangofox007; 09-19-2009 at 10:37 PM.
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  #4  
Old 09-19-2009, 10:21 PM
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cant really do that I have two jackstands only. I can't take a risk it moving forward and crushing me (cali = earthquakes)

So I guess the only other choice is to push the car back and fourth.

Another question though. The DIY says remove the flex discs. Does that mean unfasten them from the driveshaft axle flange? or does it mean "take off the flex disc from the car" ?
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Old 09-19-2009, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lobu View Post
Another question though. The DIY says remove the flex discs. Does that mean unfasten them from the driveshaft axle flange? or does it mean "take off the flex disc from the car" ?
You only need to remove the three bolts that hold the drive shaft to the flex disc. You don't actually need to take the felx discs off unless you are replacing them.
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  #6  
Old 09-19-2009, 10:58 PM
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ok took 3 bolts off the front drive shaft flange. Next I have to compress the driveshaft. Meaning pull the driveshaft away from the tranny. when I do that the flex disc is still stuck to the drive shaft flange.

do pry the contact points apart with a sharp object?
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  #7  
Old 09-19-2009, 11:35 PM
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Might want to find some info here:

Driveshaft, Axle & Wheel bearing
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  #8  
Old 09-20-2009, 12:16 AM
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diesel911 : thanks for the link but those are all halfshaft wheel axle and flex disc problems.

My final and most difficult problem is understanding why it is so difficult to pull the drive axle off the flexdisc. Is there a technique? I move the drive line axle assembly up and down, left and right and the flex disc will still stay stuck to the axle flanges. I'm about ready to give up and button everything down and give it to a mechanic
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Old 09-20-2009, 12:20 AM
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get a pry bar in there. they have been together so long it is stuck. also there is a nub which sticks out of the driveshaft to center it on the flexdisc. I usually leave the FD on the driveshaft(which is in no way an axle or axle assembly, FWIW)
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  #10  
Old 09-20-2009, 01:26 AM
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kind of unrelated but could the splines in between the driveshaft also rusted themselves shut. meaning that I would have difficulty compressing and decompressing the driveshaft?
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  #11  
Old 09-20-2009, 07:51 AM
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Here's an article I put together on this job a while back that might help:

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123DriveShaftSupportBearing

Scott
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1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000
1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000)
1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold)
1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold)
1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!)
1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold)
1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold)
1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.)
1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold)
1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold)
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  #12  
Old 09-20-2009, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by lobu View Post
kind of unrelated but could the splines in between the driveshaft also rusted themselves shut. meaning that I would have difficulty compressing and decompressing the driveshaft?
I just went through this on my '82 240D.
Yes, rusty splines or dried-up grease could make it hard to compress/decompress the shaft.
It's not necessary to remove the flex-discs from the driveshaft if you're not going to replace them, but examine the old ones closely for cracking rubber if you plan on reusing them. The protruding nubs on the flexdiscs can be a very tight fit into the driveshaft and tranny/diff flanges, Depending on how tight they are, you could damage those flexjoints while prying or driving them off. Another reason to consider getting new ones..
To replace the center support and bearing, I needed to separate the two driveshaft sections anyway, so I marked them for correct alignment on reassembly, then separated them in the car. With my 240D, it was much easier to remove and reinstall the driveshaft in two pieces, than to try and wrestle the whole long floppy driveshaft unit out and back in, past the exhaust and brake-cables. Others have said, on a 300D, it's easier to disconnect the front exhaust pipe and move it aside, then remove & reinstall the complete driveshaft.
You didn't say what W123 you have, so you'll need to figure out which method works for you. If you decide to replace the flexjoints, avoid Chinese ones!
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Last edited by Mark DiSilvestro; 09-20-2009 at 08:42 AM.
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  #13  
Old 09-20-2009, 11:24 AM
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mark: thats the kind of info I needed. it was very detailed. ok so I'm going to get some release agent and spray the splines and flex disc contact patches. I have a 300d turbo but I have a custom one peice exhaust, so i cant necessarily take it off.

So I guess Ill pry it off after the release agent does it's magic!
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  #14  
Old 09-20-2009, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by lobu View Post
mark: thats the kind of info I needed. it was very detailed. ok so I'm going to get some release agent and spray the splines and flex disc contact patches. I have a 300d turbo but I have a custom one peice exhaust, so i cant necessarily take it off.

So I guess Ill pry it off after the release agent does it's magic!
This job was covered in another thread recently, and someone said that their turbo exhaust had a flange connection that cold be easily unbolted to move the exhaust aside and allow easier driveshft removal, but my non-turbo Euro TD and 240Ds have pipes that are clamped together. I didn't want to open a can of worms trying to separate the pipes, so I separated the driveshaft section instead.
If you have the original or OE flexdiscs, they shouldn't be that hard to remove.
I installed a Chinese replacement flexdisc on my 240D, and was very unhappy with the fit & performance. Also the new Chinese flexjoint nubs were a very tight fit in the shaft & tranny flanges, so it got somewhat mangled after the hammering & prying it took to remove it. Fortunately, my supplier took it back as a defect and I got a decent one at my local Mercedes dealer.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #15  
Old 09-20-2009, 06:42 PM
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Regarding the connections of the flex disks to the tri-lobed flanges of the driveshaft, the tranny, and the differential.

The flex disk has steel bushings which protrude from the flexdisk and when installed fit into recesses in the flanges. Over time the bushings get stuck and rusted into place in the flanges recesses. You need to first remove the bolts, then you can use a pry bar, large screwdriver, chisel, etc., place the tip of the tool alongside the lobe of the flange, with a hammer give the tool a short, sharp, shot. With the tool placed alongside the flange lobe it will rest on the outer edge of the steel bushing in the flex disk.

Usually prying the flex disk will not work to free things because the rubber is designed to flex!

Once you have the three flex disk steel bushings free you can use a prybar to lever the driveshaft end piece off the tranny/differential shaft stubs.

It will likely be easier to completely remove the front flex disk as it will be somewhat smaller and easier to manuver the driveshaft rearwards if you do.

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