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#1
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I don't think they want my business...
This was a quote from a MB dealer to replace both lower ball joints and do an alignment.
"The cost to replace the lower ball joints will be right at $450.00 per side ($900.00 for both sides) If you need an alignment it will run $119.95 additional. We will have to order the ball joints and the repair will probably take about 1.5 to 2 days to complete. If this is something you want to do give us a call at 807-XXX-XXXX and we can schedule an appointment. Thanks" I know they are called stealerships for a reason but I just think they don't want the business on this one.
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1993 W124 300D -297K on the clock as I type this. |
#2
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Yikes....I think I paid about $300ish for a ball joint replacement....3 hours.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#3
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No, they probably don't want to be bothered working on older cars. Most dealers do the majority of their work under warrentee.
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#4
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Every time I go buy parts from the stealership near me they have a few older cars getting worked on. A saw a pristine 300CD last time I was there. I wanted to put a note in it for the owner making him an offer on it! Most people with older Mercedes either work on them themselves or have the big bucks to pay the stealership. So they can charge what ever they want. I think the labor rate at the local is $120/hour. At that rate, I have saved about $10,000 doing all the work on my car myself!
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2009 ML320 Bluetec 1985 300CD 1981 300TD Past Mercedes 1979 300TD 1982 300TD 2000 E320 4Matic Wagon 1998 E430 1984 300SD 1980 300SD |
#5
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I have found that good independent shops are better at working on older cars. A good shop may cost the same as the dealer, but they probably have more experience working on these cars.
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#6
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jeez...i have an under the table indy mechanic. my lower ball joint replacement cost me about $45 bucks plus parts, and he had to heat it up and beat the damn thing out with a hammer. i didn't realize how much this work really costs, everything has been so cheap with him. i guess i'm spoiled!
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1985 300D - 1984 Euro 280E AMG Clone (SOLD) - 1978 280CE (SOLD) - 1983 300D (SOLD) - 1981 300D (SOLD) |
#7
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If u r a bit handy and can remove the spindles (the part where the BJ is attached to), just bring the spindles to any machine shop that has a press and they will press out and press in the BJs for much, much less than you can ever spend by having any mechanic do it.
I brought mine to our local NAPA that had a machine shop and paid around $30 for both sides. Alignment may not be necessary after but there again, find a shop with laser alignment and they should be able to do a W123/126. My Ford dealer charges $55. By the time you spend anyweres close to $200-$300 for work like this, you would have equipped yourself with the proper tools to do the job (BJ separators, wrenches, etc).
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the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth... 2007 Honda Accord EX 2007 Honda Accord SE V6 96 C220 97 Explorer - Found Another Home 2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home 85 300D - Found Another Home 84 300D - Found Another Home 80 300TD - Found Another Home Previous cars: 96 Caravan 87 Camry 84 Cressida 82 Vanagon 80 Fiesta 78 Nova Ford Cortina Opel Kadet 68 Kombi Contessa |
#8
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On your '93, check to see if they are the replaceable ball-joints. If so, they can be replaced without the control arms.
If not, you'll need new control arms, and definately an alignment. The ball-joint replacement is a ***** IMO, but the control-arm replacement is fairly simple, I've done both without a spring compressor on my '87 (probably not recommended) in an afternoon, they you have new bushings and ball-joints, and the parts are not that bad. Search or ask for brand recommendation on the control-arms, IIRC there is at least one aftermarket that is recommended and one that is not.
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#9
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Any dealer ls like this. The local ford is 120 per hour also.
got to find a good indy shop or do it yourself.
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83 300SD Dark Silver Dark brown inside |
#10
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Quote:
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#11
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Quote:
Those of us who DIY are a very very small minority. There are at least 10 different independent shops here in the DC area that work exclusively on older German cars. And they are all busy.
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'98 E300 turbodiesel |
#12
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Yeah, my indy always has piles of Mercedes outside his shop (and inside). I think most people around here who have an older MB they want to take care of at some point hear that this guy's the guy to take it to ... not the dealer. The dealer told my dad to "retire" my 300D in 2002, which was and is a really nice, healthy car, when it needed new ball joints and couple other things. They didn't even want his business. My indy did the whole front end for a fraction of what the dealer would have charged. I do go into the dealer all the time for parts, and really like the parts dept., but I don't get the feeling they see a lot of older MBs in there. I don't think the service department would be all that thrilled to work on my 300D, let alone my 240D. My indy helped me when my 240D was missing a throttle spring, and didn't question my interest in repairing the car even though it's a junker. He sees everything from old beaters to creampuffs and he knows how to deal with all of them. Without requiring you to take out a second mortgage to pay for it.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#13
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Quote:
I have one of those as well. Sunroof lifting arm repair....$300 + $50 because he did a great job. When I bring it to him it comes back fixed as opposed to the dealer which misdiagnose problems and loose hood braces on me....
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1982 300GD Carmine Red (DB3535) Cabriolet Parting Out 1990 300SEL Smoke Silver (Parting out) 1991 350SDL Blackberry Metallic (481) "The thing is Bob, its not that I'm lazy...its that I just don't care." |
#14
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I think they stole your hood brace as part of their diabolic plot to make everyone give up on their old cars and buy one of those magical no-maintenance new ones. Seriously, how do you misplace something that unwieldy? LOL.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#15
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I'm on one of the popular boxster boards, and a GM of a dealership regularly contributes.
I'm para-phrasing... so pardon me if it's off by a little bit, but... 1. they don't like being called stealership's..... they provide reasonable service.. if you don't like it.. don't complain.... just go somewhere else. 2. if you're stuck... they will try to help you at their going rate. 3. if you don't like point 2... see point 1. bottom line... in warranty... goto a dealer.. give them your money. out of warranty, the choices are... 1: diy. (don't know what that means.. then...) 2:find an indy.. (not sure what that means) 3. go whereever.... bottom line.. they sure are wonderfull cars... and someone fix's them. |
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