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  #1  
Old 09-23-2009, 11:10 PM
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My new 84 300D

Hi everyone, This is my first post on this forum and I find it full of good info for Mercedes diesels.
I have had a couple of Mercedes diesels in the past and I love em.
I just bought me a 84 300D with 103,000 miles on it. It is in very good condition and seems to need nothing, the air works ( but center vents don't blow very well). Seats are in perfect condition (came with sheep skin covers) and the paint is original in exceptional condition with zero dents.
There is a problem with the door locks though, must be a leak somewhere the doors will lock but barely. Has new battery and hoses and belts. Did not come with much documentation of service.
I would like to drive it on a cross country trip. I have changed the oil. And I am confident that I can adjust the valves. But I am not too comfortable yet in IP timing. If the car seems to run fine do you think I should let that be? Besides tires, wheel bearings, fluid levels, fuel filter brake check. What would you suggest that I do for the car before attempting a long trip like this. I would really love taking it for the long trip.
I'm so happy with my 300D so far.
Thanks
Jimmy

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  #2  
Old 09-23-2009, 11:20 PM
Craig
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Welcome, sounds nice.

I would probably service the transmission and replace all the (fuel, air) filters as well. I would also check all the glow plugs, the light won't always tell you if you have one bad one. I wouldn't worry about the IP timing unless you have reason to believe it's off. Carry a couple of spare fuel filters and spare belts along with the usual selection of hand tools.
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  #3  
Old 09-23-2009, 11:35 PM
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This thread is worthless...



WITHOUT PICTURES
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  #4  
Old 09-23-2009, 11:44 PM
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Red face

Yea your right! no pictures! It's dark now but I'll get some pics on here tomorrow if I can figure it out.
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  #5  
Old 09-24-2009, 12:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dobroman View Post
Yea your right! no pictures! It's dark now but I'll get some pics on here tomorrow if I can figure it out.
It's alright

What's your problem with your door locks? Definitely a vacuum issue.

On my 85 300D when I pulled it out of storage a leak developed in the front passenger door lock that caused a major leak to form. Basically when a passenger opened the door with the handle while locked the entire reservoir in the trunk would leak. I could hear a hiss to prove it

I bought my trusty mity vac and basically isolated the line under the floor board with a golf tee.

Here are two pictures that may be incredibly helpful to you. The first one was probably the best life saver for me.

Good luck!
Attached Thumbnails
My new 84 300D-w123-central-locking-diagram.jpg   My new 84 300D-central_locking_circuits.jpg  
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Old 09-24-2009, 09:56 AM
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Hey thanks for the diagram. I haven't had a chance to pull off the door panels yet to check operation. There is not enough build up of vacuum to lock all doors well . I have to turn off engine jump out of car real fast and lock doors and they all lock. If I wait vacuum goes away. I need to lock doors so I can lock up my guitar. I suspect that there is a leak somewhere. I just hope that I don't jack up the panels when I remove them.
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  #7  
Old 09-24-2009, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dobroman View Post
Hey thanks for the diagram. I haven't had a chance to pull off the door panels yet to check operation. There is not enough build up of vacuum to lock all doors well . I have to turn off engine jump out of car real fast and lock doors and they all lock. If I wait vacuum goes away. I need to lock doors so I can lock up my guitar. I suspect that there is a leak somewhere. I just hope that I don't jack up the panels when I remove them.
That's a definite leak. You do not need to jack up the car to fix it. Like I said I have bypassed the unlocking line on my car. Fixing a leak is pretty easy with a mity vac or blowing directly into the line and seeing if you get any resistance.
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Old 09-24-2009, 12:39 PM
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If you're going on a long trip with a "new" car, I'll agree with Craig on the transmission. At the low of miles, the odo's can fail, I doubt new glow plugs would be in order, but they're easy to check with an ohm meter. New fuel filters, too.
The IP timing shouldn't be an issue.
Wheel bearings are fine.
You may want to at least check the calipers, with the car off the ground, you can do rears then fronts, with the car running, spin each tire and have a helper hit the brakes, if the wheel stops, the caliper is fine. Nothing wrong with a fluid change there either.
Take along a voltage regulator.
Happy trails, let us know how things turn out.
You can just plug off the door lock vac loop and deal with it at your leisure.
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Old 09-24-2009, 04:42 PM
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Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by okyoureabeast View Post
Here are two pictures that may be incredibly helpful to you. Good luck!
Thanks OK for these awesome pics/diagrams! Appreciate it -
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  #10  
Old 09-24-2009, 06:26 PM
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Thanks for all the good input here. Today I found the door lock culprit. The right rear door lock gizmo wasn't working so I took it off and plugged the lines that went to it. I'll replace it later. The rest of the doors lock fine now.
I had a question on the transmission service. Would that just consist of fluid change along with the filter? It seems to operate just fine. The local lube shop here wants 100$ to change filter and pan gasket. And another 100$ to exchange all the fluid with new. They say going through the dip stick while it is running and extract all of the fluid including what's in the torc converter. I'm wondering if I should change the filter myself and let them do the complete fluid change. And if I should do the filter before or after they change it. Or should I just bite the bullet and have them do it all? (easier).
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  #11  
Old 09-24-2009, 07:36 PM
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If you don't choose to do the work yourself, take your car to a real mechanic - one who knows 123 cars. DO NOT take it to a "local lube shop."
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  #12  
Old 09-24-2009, 07:52 PM
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This is just what I was thinking. I was afraid to let them do an oil change so I did it myself.
Filter and a gasket for tranny is 25$. Do you know a way to get the fluid out of the torc converter without taking it out?
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  #13  
Old 09-24-2009, 11:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dobroman View Post
This is just what I was thinking. I was afraid to let them do an oil change so I did it myself.
Filter and a gasket for tranny is 25$. Do you know a way to get the fluid out of the torc converter without taking it out?
There is a drain on the torque converter. at the bottom of the bell housing is a opening, think it is like a grill. the converter is right there. use a screwdriver to turn it to line up the drain plug. it is the same size as the pan plug.

Did you change the oil and filter then drive the car? If so then you contaminated the clean oil.

Do not over tighten the pan bolts or the pan will get tweeked and will leak. think it is 6ft lbs, but I don`t have my manuel in front of me. one of the big guns will straighten me out if wrong.

Stay out of the quickie lube shops. $200 for a change? bend over

Charlie
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  #14  
Old 09-25-2009, 10:17 AM
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Thanks Charlie , I will adjust valves today and change trans. fluid and filter today. There is a strange mystery whistle that happens at highway speeds just once in a while. Maybe from the engine department or behind the dash.??? Not a problem now , just curious.
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  #15  
Old 09-27-2009, 08:46 PM
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Here are the pics of my "New" 1984 300D.

http://gallery.me.com/dobroman#100023

Car is happy!

Except that the PO painted the wheels (Ugly)

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