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  #1  
Old 09-25-2009, 12:39 AM
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leaky injector

one of my injectors has started leaking in the middle, where the two parts of the injector screw together. i had new nozzles installed a few thousand miles ago by c sean watts.

is this an easy fix? should i just unscrew, clean the threads and retighten?

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Old 09-25-2009, 01:10 AM
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1st be 100% sure it is leaking between the Injector Nut and the Injector Body.

After that 2 choices.
Both will require a new Heat Shield or 2 new Heat Shields as you will need to remove the Injector at least once and maybe twice.

Remove the Injector and put it in a vice and Torque the Injector Nut to 59 Foot Pounds (80 Nm) and install it again and see if it leaks. That is the Max allowable torque.

Also inspet the Injector Nut for Hair Line Cracks as sometimes the crack. If so you can get a used Injector Nut and Install it. Exchanging the Injector Nut will not change the Pop Pressure.

If it still leaks this would normally call for taking apart the Injector and lapping the Precision surfaces again. After which the Injector is assembled with the proper Torque and put back on the Engine.

I lost track of what has happen with C Sean Watts? Do you have any Info?
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Last edited by Diesel911; 09-25-2009 at 01:22 AM.
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Old 09-25-2009, 01:25 AM
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I thought that the appearance of fuel in that area of the injector holder pointed to a leak on my #2 and #3. It turned out that it was a cracked return line ("bleed fuel") barb. The cracks were invisible, and very close to where the barb protruded out of the body, but were leaking fuel under the rubber return line end and collecting in the seam between the body and the clamping nut. I had to replace those bodies with good used ones.
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Last edited by sasquatchgeoff; 09-25-2009 at 01:31 AM.
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Old 09-25-2009, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sasquatchgeoff View Post
I thought that the appearance of fuel in that area of the injector holder pointed to a leak on my #2 and #3. It turned out that it was a cracked return line ("bleed fuel") barb. The cracks were invisible, and very close to where the barb protruded out of the body, but were leaking fuel under the rubber return line end and collecting in the seam between the body and the clamping nut. I had to replace those bodies with good used ones.

Yes, the Barbs are shoved into the holes in the upper Injector Body and are crimped/swedged/peened over to hold them in place.

Cracked or not ounce in a while the come loose inside and leak. The only fix is to replace the Upper Injector Body.

And, If you replace the Upper Injector Body it will change your Pop/Opening Pressure unless the internal dimensions are exactly the same.
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Old 09-25-2009, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
Yes, the Barbs are shoved into the holes in the upper Injector Body and are crimped/swedged/peened over to hold them in place.

Cracked or not ounce in a while the come loose inside and leak. The only fix is to replace the Upper Injector Body.

And, If you replace the Upper Injector Body it will change your Pop/Opening Pressure unless the internal dimensions are exactly the same.
good to know that the pop pressure will change - chances are that the dimensions will vary because of wear, and also the axial position of the clamping nut to the body. When the shop replaced my bodies with the used ones I wonder if they pop-tested them to double check - I doubt it, because the idle changed slightly. Guess I have to pull them and have them check again. I think I will wait a couple of months because I'm sure those poor guys have had a belly full of me in the past three months... Part of the reason they leaked is because I have been pulling/torquing them so much, and the fact that my HF deep-well 27mm socket was damaging them (stuffed some heater hose in there to prevent that from happening again)
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327K on 1986 W201, 602.911, 722.414 2.5 190D ("The Red Baron")
139K on 1993 W124, 104.942, 722.433 2.8 300E ("Queen")

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Last edited by sasquatchgeoff; 09-25-2009 at 01:51 PM.
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  #6  
Old 09-25-2009, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sasquatchgeoff View Post
good to know that the pop pressure will change - chances are that the dimensions will vary because of wear, and also the axial position of the clamping nut to the body. When the shop replaced my bodies with the used ones I wonder if they pop-tested them to double check - I doubt it, because the idle changed slightly. Guess I have to pull them and have them check again. I think I will wait a couple of months because I'm sure those poor guys have had a belly full of me in the past three months... Part of the reason they leaked is because I have been pulling/torquing them so much, and the fact that my HF deep-well 27mm socket was damaging them (stuffed some heater hose in there to prevent that from happening again)

I have looked at a lot sockets to include US made one that say they are deep sockets but they often have too much metal let at the top of the socket; not deep through the entire inside length of the socket.
I have been using the same 1-1/16" Craftsman socket on Injectors since 1975.
What ever it cost me way back then it has surely paid for itself many times over.
You can see in the blurry pic that it is deep all the way to the end; nothint to hit the Fuel Return Nipples.
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leaky injector-zq1b.jpg  
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Last edited by Diesel911; 09-25-2009 at 08:14 PM.
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  #7  
Old 09-25-2009, 08:04 PM
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I tweaked one of the barbs on an injector because of a poor fitting socket. Before I damaged any others I bought the right size and depth socket.
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Old 09-26-2009, 11:27 AM
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I have been using the Craftsman deep 1 1/6 socket also w/o any problems.
plenty of depth to clear the barbs. part# 47532.

Charlie
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  #9  
Old 09-26-2009, 08:59 PM
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ugh. i hope it's not a barb but i think it might be. i thought it was coming from there and i replaced the hoses but it didn't help. i'll have to inspect further.

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