|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
Lower ball joint separator - will this work?
I'm planning to replace the lower ball joints on my '83 240D as part of a front suspension overhaul. I have read a little about what others have done and see some different tools suggest. I have found a Klaan tool (see the first pic) which costs about $100. I have also found a knock-off type (kinetik) for $50 (see the second picture). Will the Kinetik version do the same job as the Klaan version?
The Klaan version states "KLANN, Lower Wishbone heavy duty Ball Joint extractor. With 27mm fork, for Chassis W116, W123, W126. Highest quality German tool." The Kinetick version states "Jaw open 23mm, Jaw deep 25 mm, applicable for Audi, BMW, Cltroen, Ford, Mercedes, Opel, Peugect, Renault, Rover, Saab, Volvo, VW, Japanische, Pkw, etc.
__________________
'95 E300D ("Tank") - 231,000 miles '79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold) '83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer) ______________________________________ "Back off, man. I’m a scientist” ~ Peter Venkman |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
With a little modification, a big vise and colorful vocabulary you can use the advanced auto rental kit. Or was it autozone. One of the two.
__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42 |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
Big ole hammer worked for me!
__________________
RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
HA! You guys are probably right. And, besides, for as much work as I have been putting in on this 240D I am getting to the point where I am ready to start pounding on something. Oh well, it will all be worth it soon.
If anyone else has any thoughts on this, feel free to add them. I guess for now I will go with just pounding on it and seeing what the local parts stores have to offer in the way of tool loans.
__________________
'95 E300D ("Tank") - 231,000 miles '79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold) '83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer) ______________________________________ "Back off, man. I’m a scientist” ~ Peter Venkman |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
I bought that Klann model and it absolutely positively would not fit. I've heard of it working on 126 chassis cars but it didn't work on mine. I had that steering knuckle disconnected at the top, spring removed, turning it in every possible direction trying to fit the tool on and it just wouldn't fit.
Scott
__________________
Scott 1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000 1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000) 1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold) 1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold) 1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!) 1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold) 1995 Ducati 900SS (sold) 1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold) 1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.) 1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold) 1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold) |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
When I did my '83, I got the $15 ball joint popper from NAPA for popping the joint from the knuckle, and used my wallet for R&R of the ball joints themselves from the spindle. That popper worked like a champ, slthough I did have to grint the tips a bit so they'd push the ruber boot out of the way.
__________________
'83 300DTurbo http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-us/318559.png Broadband: more lies faster. |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
'95 E300D ("Tank") - 231,000 miles '79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold) '83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer) ______________________________________ "Back off, man. I’m a scientist” ~ Peter Venkman |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Thanks!
__________________
'95 E300D ("Tank") - 231,000 miles '79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold) '83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer) ______________________________________ "Back off, man. I’m a scientist” ~ Peter Venkman |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
I've always used a different technique. Using a long prybar (6-8') I put pressure on the lower control arm pulling the ball joint out, then strike the metal surrounding the tapered ball joint pin with a small sledgehammer. Never taken more than half a dozen sharp strikes.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
Here is how I took off mine.
I also used a Propane Torch to heat the Lower Control Arm near the Ball Joint. Be, careful not to burn the Boot on the Ball Joint with the Toarch. Because I was removing my Lower Control Arm to change the Bushings and my Lower Ball Joing was OK I reused the ones on both sides. When you do this you will destroy the Ball Joint nut so you need to have a source of the Metric Nuts. It is important to back off the Nut enough so that when you hit it you damage only the nut. And, use a 2 pound or more hammer.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#11
|
||||
|
||||
Alight, you guys have won me over. I am going to forego buying any tools until I have given it a try with the ole fashion methods - big hammers and pry bars it is! If all else fails I'll head to the parts store for a separator.
Thanks for the input gents!
__________________
'95 E300D ("Tank") - 231,000 miles '79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold) '83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer) ______________________________________ "Back off, man. I’m a scientist” ~ Peter Venkman |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
If someone only works on their own vehicle and doesn't have more than one vehicle, and assuming they don't have a "fine German tool fetish" it is probably less than cost effective to spend more on the tool than 3-4 ball joints themselves! The 'short, sharp, shot " two hammer method will often work, and if the ball joint is already damaged a pickle fork will work almost every time. Although, it may be necessary to grind one "tine" of the pickle fork shorter so it does not come into contact with the inside of the steering knuckle when you're using it. The other tool definitely will not work for the lower ball joint on 123/126/116 cars it does not have a large enough fork/opening. It will work for popping the upper control arm's ball joint. This tool will work on tie rod end ball joints, the only problem with this inline design there are some places where there is little or no room to position the tool and to then get a wrench on it to turn it. I have a ball joint separator tool which I originally got at NAPA which I've since been told they no longer carry which is a great design which I've been able to use on all the smaller ball joints on the tie rods, dampers, upper control arms on 123, 126, 124, 201 cars. This is a picture of a tool of similar shape and design. |
#13
|
||||
|
||||
ive always done it either like diesel911 or kerry. works good. the autozone to is for installing the new ball joint not separating.
__________________
have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
I am in the middle of changing a ball joint on my 84. The first one I did on my 85. I "rented" the front end kit from advanced. It makes the job very easy. I say "rented" because you just put the kit on your credit card and you get a full refund when you take it back. They do this as a courtesy to develop loyalty. I would not bother to purchase any separators because you rarely need them, and you can always go back and rent the kit again. There are two tools in the kit that you will need. One is to remove the upper control arm without damaging the rubber boot, and that is the black tool pictured above. The other tool has a long threaded shaft and two hooks. The hooks grab onto the lower control arm. Then you crank down on the threaded shaft and pop the steering knuckle (spindle) with ball joint out of the lower control arm. This second procedure is the one where some like to give a few blows with two sledge hammers, one on either side of the lower control arm. From what I have read here, it works really well once you get your aim and timing right.
Once you release the upper control arm from the steering knuckle, you will need to move the upper control arm up and away from the steering knuckle so you can rotate the steering knuckle down and away, so as to be able to access the place where you want to put the second tool to do the second procedure. I wrestled with this and felt like an idiot trying to gain access to the ball joint. Then I realized that there is a kind of metal shelf or brace where the upper control arm joins the body. Just put a small board or pipe on that shelf and use it as a fulcrum to push the upper control arm up and over the hole where it goes into the steering knuckle. Then the steering knuckle will rotate away and give you access to the ball joint where you need to apply pressure with the second tool. The first time I did this, I felt like I didn't know what in the world I was doing. When I did the second one, I felt like a pro. I dropped off my steering knuckle with new ball joint of choice at my local friendly independent mechanic so he can swap them out for me. The press is over $300 and I chose to have this done rather than buy the press. Good luck with it. Repack your bearings while you are in there.
__________________
85 300D 75K Anthracite Grey 0-60 in 13 seconds **For Sale** 84 300D 333K Black (The Velveteen Rabbit) 0-60 in 14 seconds 00 Toyota Sienna 208K (Sold) 15 Subaru Outback 43K 11 Subaru Outback 67K 98 Ford Taurus 100K (Gertie - Was Grandma's - drove it to church and shopping - really) Daughter's car now. 30 Model A Ford 2 Door Sedan (Sold) 0-60 in . . . Never reached 60 |
#15
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|