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  #1  
Old 09-28-2009, 08:30 PM
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Exclamation 5 Gls got out but 1 got stuck in 606 Td, drill it out or let it be???

2nd from right glowplug got stuck and wont come out, all 5 came out good

so my question is, do i have to bother replacing it, cant i just leave that one in and swap the rest ones in

will this cause any issues?

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  #2  
Old 09-28-2009, 08:49 PM
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Having 5 good ones will buy you some time to plan a head.
How much of a problem 1 bad GP is going to be will depend on the Condition of your Engine and the ambient temp you will be starting it at over the Winter months.

If your Car is kept in a warm Garage and you have a Block heater (do they have those on your model) I would expect it to start easily. If out on the street in cold temps will be the question.

If you live in Florida it may not be a big problem.

Anyway you have time to plan if you do decide to drill it out.
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  #3  
Old 09-28-2009, 08:51 PM
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It'll burn out eventually, assuming you haven't mangled it. Then you'll have rough starts.
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Old 09-28-2009, 09:12 PM
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Trial run as learning experience

Mount 1 of the old plugs in a vice. Perhaps use some scrap wood to hold it by the threads. Put a box end on the flats. Tap it with a hammer. Hit it hard enough so you learn how much force will destroy the plug. Find a solvent that will clean carbon. With your new knowledge, spray & tap the stuck plug. Carbon was the culprit on my SD. Go slow so you don't break the offending plug.
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Old 09-28-2009, 09:45 PM
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if you can get an impact tool onto it that's what I'd try. I have a small air powered impact wrench with a butterfly valve which you can control the power on very carefully.

You can even spray it down with PB blaster for a couple of days, and try that liquid freeze stuff on the plug itself after warming up the engine to help shrink it a little and loosen up the interference.
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  #6  
Old 09-28-2009, 09:59 PM
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Aluminum (the hole) grows more with heat than should a steel GP, so heat is your friend as Marty has mentioned.
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  #7  
Old 09-28-2009, 10:01 PM
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I always have to ask more questions. What does stuck mean. Have you stripped the nut portion yet. If not get a good tight six point on it and work it out. Not a twelve point. I Just checked mine and sure enough the one that was burnt was also very tight. I tried about four wrenches befor I got one that I trusted. Then I had to cheat it which I don't like to do but it started to move and out it came. My guess is the last time they were changed on mine they left that one because it was tight hinch it also was burned. Thanks
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Old 09-28-2009, 10:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nhdoc View Post
if you can get an impact tool onto it that's what I'd try. I have a small air powered impact wrench with a butterfly valve which you can control the power on very carefully.

You can even spray it down with PB blaster for a couple of days, and try that liquid freeze stuff on the plug itself after warming up the engine to help shrink it a little and loosen up the interference.

please dont recommend an impact for something delicate like this. 90% chance it will snap right off.
dont use an impact on something like this unless you are 100% sure you know how to remove it when it breaks.

i agree on using heat. try a hot engine first then move on to heat.

you might try tightening it first too.
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Old 09-28-2009, 10:07 PM
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well my freind whose working on the car now, said that its stuck hard, wont bulge, so hes worried that the gp will break, and thats why we are wondering if we can just leave it be
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  #10  
Old 09-28-2009, 10:11 PM
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did you heat it up yet?
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  #11  
Old 09-28-2009, 10:15 PM
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If you are going to try heat keep in mind. A hot engine makes a hot glowplug thread so there is no heat difference. Thats what you are after. So on a cold engine get your heat source and heat all around the GP starting at about 4" away or so and then move in. What happens is as the block gets hot the threads open up slightly before the GP starts to warm up and it should come loose. If you let it set to long then the GP threads expand and you are in the same boat as a hot engine with no difference it temperature. Thanks Oh yeah, impact bad, patience good.
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  #12  
Old 09-29-2009, 01:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DocSarvis View Post
I always have to ask more questions. What does stuck mean. Have you stripped the nut portion yet. If not get a good tight six point on it and work it out. Not a twelve point. I Just checked mine and sure enough the one that was burnt was also very tight. I tried about four wrenches befor I got one that I trusted. Then I had to cheat it which I don't like to do but it started to move and out it came. My guess is the last time they were changed on mine they left that one because it was tight hinch it also was burned. Thanks
From what I have read on this Forum the long Glow Plugs on the Aluminum Head Models get stuck due to Carbon buildup trapping the Heater Element/Electrode, corrosion in the threaded area or both simultaneously.

Ounce in awhile someone has a problem where the Glow Plug for some reason did not seat and seal on the tapered part at the end of the Glow Plug Body and Carbon fills up the space between the Cylinder Head and the Glow Plug Body.

The above combined with a thin or thin and brittle area right past the Hex Head on the Glow Plug can cause them to break off.

If one or more appears to be stuck I think I would plan for the worst and read all of the threads in the DIY section concerning removing them.

I have also commented in passed threads that if you take this problem to a Mechanic that the win win situation for them is to remove you Cylinder Head and send it to a Machine shop.
It means more work and more money for them and they avoid the
responsibility of damaging your Head trying to drill the Glow Plugs out themselves.
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  #13  
Old 09-29-2009, 05:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmaysob View Post
please dont recommend an impact for something delicate like this. 90% chance it will snap right off.
dont use an impact on something like this unless you are 100% sure you know how to remove it when it breaks.

i agree on using heat. try a hot engine first then move on to heat.

you might try tightening it first too.
My advice is to try and use a small impact tool on it, and use it with as little torque as possible, though I admit I didn't make that clear. The repeated impacts, even at low force, are more effective at freeing stuck stuff than constant force from turning a wrench.

I did not mean just take out a 1/2" impact gun on its highest torque and go to town on it. There are small ones with very controllable low force that will not break it. There are even cordless drills with impact settings that would do what I'm describing. You can gradually increase the torque if lowest settings aren't effective but my experience with stuck fasteners is that impact will always free up a stuck fastener using less force than using hand tools.
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Last edited by nhdoc; 09-29-2009 at 06:34 AM.
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  #14  
Old 09-29-2009, 08:03 AM
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>>http://www.beru.com/download/produkte/TI04_e.pdf

See page 15
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  #15  
Old 09-29-2009, 12:57 PM
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Beru GP's (OEM) have previously been tested by a forum member and shown to shear in a vice at 80-90NM fairly consistiently.

I'd recommend patience, penetrating oil, rat-ta-tat-tat action, hot and cold.

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