|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
help I really need this
Hello,
I have a few doubt's if all my water hoses are connected properly, could someone please tell me where I can get a diagram of the cooling circuit where it just shows in lines to where each hose goes, just something simple the water seems quite hot so hot that after some time the water would burn your hand I have my thermostat installed and is there thing I could remove and check for damage ? Thanks Jeremy Brett |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
That sounds normal... the engine normally operates at 180*F or so.
-Jason
__________________
1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states! Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels. 2014 Cadillac ELR 2013 Fiat 500E. |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
__________________
1993 W124 300D 2.5L Turbo, OM602.962 2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.4L DOHC 2002 Ford Explorer, 4.0L SOHC 2005 Toyota Prius, 1.5L http://www.fuelly.com/sig-us/40601.png |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP
First THANK YOU everyone for your reply's I really appreciate this ,
I find that mostly the two hoses coming in and out of the radiator are very hot, and there is this other hose that comes out of the fire wall that carries water too along with three others this goes just below the crank case in between the glow plugs, I can feel this pumping the water at a very fast rate and that's not very hot at all but just warm I cant understand is there some kind of block anywhere? I am confused and worried about the car, previously some mechanic had stolen our thermostat and stuck a large nut into the place where the thermostat goes to block the hole and prevent water flow had this caused any damage? I cant understand this heat is enough to fry an egg |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
W115
240D 1975 |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
Did you find your car in the website I linked to above?
What temperature does your gauge read when the engine is fully warmed? The large hoses attached to the radiator will be very hot because this is were most of the engine heat goes to be removed by the radiator. Too hot to the touch is normal. The other smaller hoses are probably heater hoses and won't be hot until you turn on your heater and some of the coolant water starts being diverted to the heating coil. The engine will run close to the boiling point of water, so the hoses will become very hot. Do you have antifreeze in the cooling system?
__________________
1993 W124 300D 2.5L Turbo, OM602.962 2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.4L DOHC 2002 Ford Explorer, 4.0L SOHC 2005 Toyota Prius, 1.5L http://www.fuelly.com/sig-us/40601.png Last edited by Oldwolf; 09-29-2009 at 01:03 PM. |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
Thanks, you may want to put that in your avatar or signature.
I'm not familiar with that engine.
__________________
83 SD 84 CD |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Running without a thermostat is just going to take the engine longer to warm up. The thermostat is closed when the engine is cold. This keep the coolant in the engine so it can heat up quicker. Once the temp gets warm enough the t-stat opens and allow the rest of the coolant to flow through and keep the engine at the proper temp. While I wouldn't run without a t-stat for too long a little while really won't hurt much.
Before you go any further what does your temperature gauge read?
__________________
Andrew '04 Jetta TDI Wagon '82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold '77 300D ~ Sold
|
#9
|
|||
|
|||
DO NOT run your engine without the thermostat...
it is not designed like other 'normal' cars... the FSM specifically forbids it.... it will not cause your engine to run cooler not having the thermostat in there....
__________________
1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
What might be confusing is that the Hot water coming from the Engine and going into the radiator might only be 10 degrees (or less) Fahrenheit cooler when it goes back into the Engine.
So the 180 degrees F going out of the Engine and 170 degrees F going back into the Engine are both hot to the touch. If you want to find out get an inexpensive Meat or Candy Thermometer (usually made of Glass). Wrap you hose with something to insulate it and slide the Thermometer under it and check it quickly after it has heated up. Do that on Upper and Lower hoses if there is room. The way it was explained in Trade School was is if the temp difference between the coolant coming out of the Engine and the temp difference of the coolant going into the Engine is too great it causes a lot of stress that can cause something like a Cracked Cylinder Head over time. However, they were speaking of something like a Truck Engine pulling a loaded Trailer; that spends a lot of time under a load. So as it was explained what your cooling system does is get rid of a large volume of heat but maintains a narrow temperature differential between the in going and out going coolant.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Without a T-stat installed, your engine will never reach operating temperature in cooler weather. This will significantly increase the rate at which your engine wears out since the oil never reaches it's operating temp. Also, you will have little or no heat from the vents in the winter time.
__________________
'98 E300 turbodiesel |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|