GSK Axles - NOT WORTH IT, no matter how low the price - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Mark DiSilvestro · #16 09-30-2009, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benhogan

How do you return the core? Wouldn't the shipping be pretty high?

I got mine from my local indie MB parts place. $160, but no shipping.

As for PNP, the only one convenient to me (where they jack up the cars so one can even get to the axles) is in Virginia Beach, where I visit every month or so.
They only average about two W123s per year, and I thought I could figure a way to reboot mine, before going through the hassle of dropping the diff-mount & cover on a junker. But I do have a couple more W123s with cracking boots, so I'll be paying more attention to the next W123 I find in the Virginia Beach PNP.

Happy Motoring, Mark

E150GT · #17 09-30-2009, 08:50 AM

I got my axles from Phil here. They were not cheap, but they were new, made in Germany and looked to be of excellent build quality.

rs899 · #18 09-30-2009, 09:18 AM

I did the re-boot thing last weekend using the Dorman boots. I got one axle done eventually, but it was like giving birth seeing that boot stretch over the funnel. There's got to be a better way...but I'm keeping ALL my good German axles.

Rick

swheele2 · #19 09-30-2009, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benhogan

How do you return the core? Wouldn't the shipping be pretty high?

I imagine shipping on the core return will be steep, but with all of the good things people have said about CVJ Axles (and with my bad experience with cheaper alternatives) it seems like it will be worth it.

vstech · #20 09-30-2009, 10:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by swheele2

Here's a quick picture.

I suppose the other take home message, for those with GSP axles already on their car, is to check the bolts on the inner joint fairly frequently. Once I get this thing off of the car I'll see if the bolts just backed out somehow or if the threads are stripped. I suspect they were just never tightened to spec.

hmm, looks like the bolts all let loose at the same time... but I doubt it.
I bet if you pull all the bolts, and look closely at the flange, several are worn from holding partially on and wobbling...
you should be able to install some loctite red, or drill and saftey wire them, and see how long they last.
of course, twice burned, I'd go fly to germany and have hanns build me some quality for any price...

Now that I think about it, my axles I got from AA for the Jetta came totally disassembled... instructions came with the axle to install the bolts and torque to spec and use loctite... did yours come preassembled? I have not ordered any axles for MB yet... kinda shied away from it after all the complaints...

swheele2 · #21 09-30-2009, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

hmm, looks like the bolts all let loose at the same time... but I doubt it.
I bet if you pull all the bolts, and look closely at the flange, several are worn from holding partially on and wobbling...
you should be able to install some loctite red, or drill and saftey wire them, and see how long they last.
of course, twice burned, I'd go fly to germany and have hanns build me some quality for any price...

Now that I think about it, my axles I got from AA for the Jetta came totally disassembled... instructions came with the axle to install the bolts and torque to spec and use loctite... did yours come preassembled? I have not ordered any axles for MB yet... kinda shied away from it after all the complaints...

Yeah, I imagine once I pull it off of the car it will be more clear exactly what happened. I agree that there are probably one or two bolts that held on for a while and will show lots of wear on the flange because of it. I'll post some pictures when available. The axles came pre-assembled. If I had assembled them myself and this happened then I'd be kicking myself, not showing off pictures!

I didn't think to check the torque on those bolts (because really, why would I?), and had assumed they were put together with loctite. Apparently not.

I have thought about regreasing the joint and putting it back together with loctite so the car will be drivable until the rebuilt ones arrive, but I don't want to risk it. It would be a real shame if I caused an accident due to an axle failing on a busy road all because I tried to get a few more days use out of a poorly made axle.

swheele2 · #22 09-30-2009, 12:27 PM

Is there a good source for new spacer rings, or will I need to stop by a dealership for those? Is there a more proper name for those?

I had to modify mine a bit to install those GSP axles so want to put in new ones when I put in the rebuilt axles.

fruitcakesa · #23 09-30-2009, 12:42 PM

I called the dealer and found out that while they have a selection of spacer thicknesses they did not stock one thin enough to fit my GSP's.
I measured the gap between the inner diff housing and the snap ring slot using a feeler gauge with the axle pushed all the way into the diff.

fruitcakesa · #24 09-30-2009, 02:30 PM

I checked my axles bolts for tightness and all were solid, whew.
Boots look good and no visible leaks. I cleaned the boots and Marine 303'd them which is the second time I have done that since new.

winmutt · #25 09-30-2009, 03:34 PM

I had the same problem with the bolts on mine backing out and shearing what was left. When I got the replacement they had started qa'ing the bolts as seen by the marker marks now on them. Think you have complaints? Mine went out on my wifes wagon and took one of the SLS lines with it.......

swheele2 · #26 09-30-2009, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by winmutt

I had the same problem with the bolts on mine backing out and shearing what was left. When I got the replacement they had started qa'ing the bolts as seen by the marker marks now on them. Think you have complaints? Mine went out on my wifes wagon and took one of the SLS lines with it.......

I suppose I am lucky there was no damage when the axle came loose.

tobybul · #27 09-30-2009, 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rs899

I did the re-boot thing last weekend using the Dorman boots. I got one axle done eventually, but it was like giving birth seeing that boot stretch over the funnel. There's got to be a better way...but I'm keeping ALL my good German axles.

Rick

rs899, I used Dorman boots too. Spray the boot with pledge after soaking the boot in hot tap water.

mobetta · #28 10-01-2009, 10:08 AM

re-boot the german ones.

Mark DiSilvestro · #29 10-01-2009, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mobetta

re-boot the german ones.

That's what CVJ does - for a price.
If my axles had the bolt-together inner joint, I might have been able to reboot them, but my 240D axles have all the joints sealed inside two-piece steel cans. To reboot those the factory way, requires a special crimp-tool to assemble the new cans. (Though some have claimed success using pliers)
I tried the Dorman boots, but didn't have the special orange installation cone, and couldn't get them home with a tranny funnel. Plus, I needed the car up and running soon, without wasting more time, or one of the new boots, experimenting. So I got my $80 back for the boots, and got the CVJ rebuilts.

Happy Motoring, Mark

cook · #30 10-01-2009, 08:54 PM

Tobybul...

Please give us details about how you slid the boot down the funnel.

Is your red funnel just a reglar ol' plastic funnel?

I tried the Dorman Flexx boots. Got one on, never could get the second one, it ripped up. I don't recall if I used Pledge or not. I may have used something like ArmorAll. It felt pretty slick.