Oil Filters Good For 10K?
 

Are the cartridge filters in our MB’s good for a 10K change interval? I am wondering if a filter change every other oil change would still protect my engine.

I run my gassers out to a 10K OCI with Mobil 1, but this soot issue in a diesel engine has me wondering if it is an apple to oranges comparison.

Why change the filter if it still has service life and filtering capacity left?

Does the filter even remove any soot? Probably the average soot size is smaller than the micron specification of the filter anyway. Does anyone know?

Thanks.

I have done no testing, but most people who run extended oil change intervals change the filter in-between at regular intervals, the logic being that the filter is designed to last the normal interval regardless of how well the oil holds up.

I've heard both arguments here.

The only real way to know in YOUR car is to have oil analysis done both ways.

First a regular oil change for baseline. Then a 10k oil change with 2 filters, then a 10k oil change with 1 filter. Send in an oil analysis for each one and compare.

But you are stating you don't want to run 10k on diesels so the point for you may be moot.

That's right. I am wondering if I can change the oil every 5k but the filter every 10k and not be worried about the filter performance.

FWIW, when I did an oil analysis on the identical vehicle (the 92 300D when it had 189,000 miles on it), the soot level was 0.8% after 7500 miles (mixed city and highway). So, in terms of soot, there should be no problem going AT LEAST 10,000 miles between oil changes with these engines. All the other trace elements were well within limits too.

This is totally illogical in my opinion (gosh, do I really sound just like Mr. Spock?).

You should never change just the oil...either change the oil and the filter or neither. You will contaminate your fresh clean oil with the old oil and dirt which is in the filter housing.

Why would you want to do this anyway? Is it the few dollars the filter costs or the 5 minutes it takes to replace it? :rolleyes:

You can send a sample of the oil to a lab after 5K miles and satisfy yourself that you will do no harm leaving it in there another 5K miles or just change it and feel good about it, but I would never recommend leaving a dirty filter in place and changing just the oil.

Also, FWIW I have run the oil in my '98 to over 10K miles and the oil analysis still came back with plenty of life left (estimated life was another 5K or more) but I usually drive about 10-11K per year and so I change it once a year regardless of miles. I used to cringe at the thought of leaving oil in there for 10K miles but I have adjusted to it and my engine runs as well now as a new one, even after this "abuse".

It is the few dollars the filter costs and my maybe illogical personality that wants to get the complete life out of the stuff I buy.:rolleyes:

I can remove the filter housing top and drain the housing, so no waste oil there will be recirculated. The filter flows only one way so no back washing will occur.

My manual, which recommends 5k interval says something to the effect, "If severe use has occurred, change the oil at 2500 miles and the filter every 5000 miles".

I am light duty guy, and I want to double the recommendations.:)

Penny wise but pound foolish IMHO...but everyone is free to do as they see fit with their own cars.

Regardless of the manual's recommendations, I, personally would always change the filter every time I drained the oil. If you err, that way, it is on the side of caution.

I thought that for the later model Mercedes they have a Fleece type Oil Filter for the exteded drian periods using synthetic Oil.

In any event if you are serious about your cleaning your Oil and getting the Max use out of the Oil in the Crankcase you should consider installing a Bypass Oil Filter system.
As, the Bypass filters filter down to around 1 micron; whereas, the full flow sections of Oil filters are somewhere in general are in the 20 something micron level.

While it is mosly for 123 Oil filters there is 3 sizeable Oil Threads with a lot of info.

So, what your looking for is reassurance to allay any "worries" that your worried about. Filters cost about $8-10 on line, and by putting one in at every oil change, you can put your worries to bed. Then there is the "risk reward" ratio to contend with. By changing your filter at 10,000 miles, you may risk blowing your engine, which in turn will cost a lot of money, time and aggravation to correct. If on the other hand, you cough up the $8-10 for a filter at every oil change (whether needed or not), you risk an extra eight bucks. Thats a pretty easy pill to swallow.

>>I thought that for the later model Mercedes they have a Fleece type Oil Filter for the exteded drian periods using synthetic Oil.

Yes, that's true.

In no way can 10K be considered an extended drain period though!

The newer MB cars in the UK will do about 15K between oil changes, depending upon oil quality, VW PD engines about 18K, and the interval on many Vauxhall/GM cars is about 20K.

The filter is much cheaper than the oil, extend your oil change interval and change the filter, it also saves oil and the pollution involved in reclaiming/refining engine oils.

JMO.

Im often tempted to just change the oil. The filter DOUBLES the cost of the oil change which is kind of a big deal when your super broke. Ive done it once while on a road trip to texas

I believe the standard oil filtering system on all cars only filters about a max of 11% by volume for each circulation of the oil. Most passes through a by-pass valve so the engine is'nt oil starved.........and that is based on a clean filter. Efficiency drops substantially as the filter becomes dirty/clogged. So I guess you would be wasting a new filter real quick if you subject it to the old dirty contaminated oil........might as well not change it at all.

When you change the oil, there is always residual oil in the engine the the new oil picks up, and what ever is in the cooler and lines. that is what darkens the oil so fast after starting the engine.

How ever I can`t see cheapening out on not replacing the filter. That would be like taking a shower and putting on your dirty scivies :eek:.

I have read the oil filter threads on what the best filter is. read about the sticks, bugs and cotton gin waste. the turkish Fram wound cotton string filter and the Wix and baldwin paper filters.
But no where did read in these threads of not changing the filter or it was a good idea. the majority of people want clean oil in their engines and the best filter.

There are a lot of variables on the condition of the oil depending on short trips and the engine not getting up to operating temp. milage of the engine, blow by, fuel dilution, bad air filtration. on the other end if the car is used mostly long distance highway miles where things get really up to temp and cob webs blown out.

As mentioned above, do an oil analysis, but that will cost some $ also that could be used to buy a new filter, but will also list any internal problems that might be brewing.

Run a bypass filter system that will filter down to 2 micron or so. then here we go, that would be 2 more filters to buy.
all depends on how long you are going to keep the car and the total miles you want to push it.

I run 3 filters, stock filter and a By Pass/full flow auxillary one also.
I plan to keep mine running the best I can for a long time w/o any more problems than I need to.