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  #16  
Old 10-03-2009, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LMN- View Post
Unless they use synthetic and do regular UOA tests to ensure its running safe.
Mine is not only synthetic but a group 5 base stock synthetic at that. I did do a lab test when I had Rotella - plan on doing it with the Redline also but I haven't had to change the oil yet. I also drive only about 5k a year - hence the yearly oil change for me. Lab tests dispel all myths about oil change frequency and tell you exactly the condition of your oil.

Scott

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Scott
1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000
1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000)
1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold)
1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold)
1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!)
1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold)
1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold)
1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.)
1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold)
1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold)

Last edited by Scott98; 10-04-2009 at 07:50 AM.
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  #17  
Old 10-03-2009, 07:59 PM
Save the manuals!
 
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Shell RotellaT 15w-40... why? cause its what i have always used... that reason is about as good as any other you will hear
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  #18  
Old 10-03-2009, 11:18 PM
92 300D 2.5L OBK #59
 
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OM602 Motor. I use Rotella Synthetic, change oil and filter every 5K. Why every 5K? Cause that what's the maintenance schedule calls for.
Bobo
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  #19  
Old 10-04-2009, 10:57 AM
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A 5w40 oil is great for the northeast. Good flow in the dead of winter and also stands up to hot summers. The perfect weight oil for a diesel. CD is the specified rating, but CH-4 CI-4, CI-4+, and CJ-4 are the newer standards that are most commonly found. CI-4+ is the best IMO.

My top two are Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel 5w40 and Shell Rotella T 5w40. I usually go with the Shell because it's what available close by. The Mobil 1 5w40 can be found in gallon size at most wally world stores.
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  #20  
Old 06-08-2020, 10:31 AM
MarcusBenz
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Palm Springs
Posts: 6
Gents - I live in an extremely hot area - Palm Springs - I stick with the MB Brand Green Stripe Diesel Oil Syn from the dealer (its actually less expensive than Mobil 1) in the cooler months here in Southern California and switch to 15W-50 Mobil 1 in the hot summer months for my 82 240D +115F in summer. Runs great and I like the feeling of sticking with OEM.

Do want to get off the reservation though and try syn Castrol or something along those lines in the near future
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  #21  
Old 06-08-2020, 10:59 AM
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Do we know anything about suitability of oils which meet the CJ-4 spec for diesel and the SN spec for gas? I've heard they're bad for my old Fords.
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'75 John Deere 450C (times 2)
'83 240D plus parts car
'87 F350, 6.9L IDI
'89 F350 crewcab, 7.3L IDI
'89 F-Superduty, 7.3L IDI
'91 F-250, 7.3L IDI
'91 F-350, 7.3L IDI
'94 F-350 Crewcab, 7.3L IDI
'94 E-350 Ambulance, 7.3L IDI
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  #22  
Old 06-08-2020, 02:54 PM
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Resurrected after 11 years, and an oil thread at that!
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'81 MB 300SD, '82 MB 300D Turbo (sold/RIP), '04 Lincoln Town Car Ultimate

Sooner or later every car falls apart, ours does it later!
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  #23  
Old 06-08-2020, 02:58 PM
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Talking The POLITE Oil Thread !

Wow, you guys are so polite, this is a good thing .

The main thing with synthetic oils is : they pretty much stop the internal wear cycle dead wherever it is ~ my M-B's are my 'new' vehicles and everything gets synthetic Diesel (C) rated multi viscosity oils , I have some 1960's Honda air cooled Motocycles that I run flat out and they're on the original air cooled engines and still running fine no smoke and have been to Death Valley, beyond and back again .

As mentnioned : always change oil when hot and always change the filter at the same time .

Blanket mileage inervales are not useful because of the typ of driving done ~ the average daily driver idles a lot and so gets dirtier much faster, the oil doesn't wear out per se, it gets contaminated and those contaminants cause wear .

Oil analysis is great, we used in on our heavy duty over the road Diesels and yes, we extended the mileage interval .

I buy at wallymart even though I dislike that chin .

It's a financial question, buy the best quality oils you can, first synthetic and 'C' rated, then go by price wherever you have to .
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1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

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  #24  
Old 06-08-2020, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nelstomlinson View Post
Do we know anything about suitability of oils which meet the CJ-4 spec for diesel and the SN spec for gas? I've heard they're bad for my old Fords.
The thing with later API spec oils that have lower zinc is associated with flat tapper cams with high spring pressures in old gas engines.

I asked about flat tappet cams here:

Flat Tappet Cams

Even gas engines with low spring pressures may not see issues, and our engines, even weigh a tappet if sorts, is ok with 1200ppm oils.

The issue arises when we start talking API CK-4 which no longer has the waivers for higher ZDDP in 40wt oils. Thus you can have 800ppm ZDDP content, which Is have to argue the jury is out on, and Id personally NOT use.

This also means that any dual rated API SN oils are also suspect.

Ford seems to concur:

https://jobbersworldblog.files.wordpress.com/2016/05/ford-motor-company-ck-4-position-statement.pdf?utm_source=November+2%2C+2016&utm_campaign=November+2%2C+2016&utm_medium=email

So IMO everyone does need to be careful to not to run automotive oils or low zinc diesel oils. Back in the day, the argument for/against Mobil 1 and car oils that had an API S and C rating was more related to them usually carrying lower (obsolete) C ratings for diesels, and not as much detergent/dispersant for soot. Now we have the greater challenge of lower ZDDP because even diesel engines have catalytic devices in them. So auto oils are OUT, and diesel oils must be selected with care.

The ages old Daimler viscosity chart still stands though, and a good 15w-40 or preferably 5w-40, changed hot and often is still good medicine for these cars.
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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #25  
Old 06-09-2020, 04:27 PM
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I have been using Amsoil 15W 40 for years and going 10 K between changes. I had an oil sample checked a couple times and no problem. I also use the Amsoil two cycle oil in my power saws, good stuff
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #26  
Old 06-09-2020, 05:23 PM
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clean oil is better than dirty oil
dirty oil is better than no oil
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  #27  
Old 06-11-2020, 12:51 AM
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It literally doesn't matter
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  #28  
Old 06-11-2020, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdoublenastywitit View Post
It literally doesn't matter
Not true.
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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #29  
Old 10-15-2020, 11:29 PM
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Location: Interior Alaska
Posts: 126
Per this sheet, Rotella T6 meets Ford spec WSS-M2C171-F1, mentioned in JHZR2's link. So do a whole slew of other oils, of course.
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'75 John Deere 450C (times 2)
'83 240D plus parts car
'87 F350, 6.9L IDI
'89 F350 crewcab, 7.3L IDI
'89 F-Superduty, 7.3L IDI
'91 F-250, 7.3L IDI
'91 F-350, 7.3L IDI
'94 F-350 Crewcab, 7.3L IDI
'94 E-350 Ambulance, 7.3L IDI
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  #30  
Old 10-16-2020, 05:49 AM
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With respect to all the opinions shared, I'm a 20+ owner and have obsessed over oil used in my Classic mercedes cars because I want them to last another half century.

I've tried Shell/ Chevron and several other mineral oils. The one product that actually delivered a notable, perceivable and measurable difference was Liqui Moly's MOS2 15W40 engine oil.

Instant difference was quieter start and idle, smoother low speed acceleration and a 1 mpg improvement in economy (I track and measure everything).

A few disclaimers:

1) I don't use synthetics in any Classic Mercedes engines but if I did, I would go with Amsoil.

2) I change my oil every 4K miles or less, religiously. I only use OE parts.

3) I use Auto-RX engine treatment to clean my internals and rejuvenate rubber seals before I switched to MOS2 oil. Highly recommend this before switching to improve compression and prevent or stop leaks. Follow the instructions to the letter.

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