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  #1  
Old 10-03-2009, 04:53 PM
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Leaking coolant...

Noticed a coolant leak again out of the short rubber hose (not sure the name) just below the water pump - the rubber tube is about 3-4 inches long and has two metal clamps around it. I've tightened it before and it stopped leaking for a while - it's back again. Do these clamps get tired, or is this a sign of some increase to internal pressure?!

James

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  #2  
Old 10-03-2009, 05:09 PM
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If something is "tired," my money is on the the piece of rubber that has been doing its job for a quarter of a century.

As hoses go, the bypass hose is, by far, the toughest hose in the cooling system. So, if excess pressure was an issue, that would be the most unlikely place for it to manifest itself.
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  #3  
Old 10-03-2009, 09:41 PM
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Changing...

Quote:
Originally Posted by LMN- View Post
Just age. Like the regular radiator hoses, it will eventually need to be changed.
How do you go about replacing it - it almost looks like you'd have to disassemble the water pump to get this hose out? This may also be a good time do do a flush of the ugly green fluid.
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  #4  
Old 10-03-2009, 09:49 PM
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Squeeze it when hot and cold to get an idea of hose strength.
You may just need to replace the hose clamps.
When I had my W126 water pump replaced, I had the bypass hose, a short 2 inch thing, replaced. It was not leaking.
The original old one was still fairly good after 20 years !

I don't think you need to remove the pump to replace the hose. Just go at it.
Soften the hose in boiling water and put soapy water on the receiving ends and wrestle it !!
good luck.
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  #5  
Old 10-03-2009, 11:24 PM
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Here is a recent thread on the same subject. There is an ebay seller that sells the short hose and a gasket and instructions at $17 no extra shipping.
Also on ebay silicone hose.
Coolant leak 240d
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  #6  
Old 10-03-2009, 11:47 PM
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Thermostat housing

Quote:
Originally Posted by LMN- View Post
The EGR and thermostat housing must be removed.

The water pump housing cant be removed with the crank damper in place.
Which one is the thermostat housing - must be the aluminum housing that bolts onto the head?!
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  #7  
Old 10-03-2009, 11:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LMN- View Post
The EGR and thermostat housing must be removed.
Removing the EGR valve is absolutely not necessary.
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  #8  
Old 10-04-2009, 12:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unkl300d View Post

I don't think you need to remove the pump to replace the hose. Just go at it.
Soften the hose in boiling water and put soapy water on the receiving ends and wrestle it !!
good luck.
Are you suggesting that the bypass hose can be replaced without removing either the water pump housing or the thermostat housing?
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  #9  
Old 10-04-2009, 01:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LMN- View Post
Incorrect. The EGR must be removed to physically access the rear bolt and remove it.
I probably should not speculate as to what might be necessary for you. But I can say with 100% certainty that it is not necessary for me to remove the EGR valve when removing the thermostat housing. But my tool box might be better equipped.
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  #10  
Old 10-04-2009, 01:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LMN- View Post
No, he is suggesting that you squeeze it to feel the water pressure of the 16-20psi cooling system.
What did he mean when he said "soften the hose in boiling water" and "wrestle it?"
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  #11  
Old 10-04-2009, 06:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
I probably should not speculate as to what might be necessary for you. But I can say with 100% certainty that it is not necessary for me to remove the EGR valve when removing the thermostat housing. But my tool box might be better equipped.
Same here.
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  #12  
Old 10-04-2009, 08:17 AM
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some people are kind of suggesting replacing clamps and maybe getting a little more life out of this hose but my suggestion is to just flat out replace it ASAP. this is the hose that will just blow out in a parking lot and ruin your day, ask me how i know.

it might seem like a pain to remove but it's not hard at all and is more than likely very necessary as these hoses are 20+ years old. better remove it under controlled circumstances than on the side of the road in the cold. and, as suggested, you can make it part of the bigger picture and replace some gaskets, your old thermostat, and purge that green coolant while you're at it.

i don't know if you have to remove the EGR or not but mine is gone and it makes working around that area a whole lot easier.
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  #13  
Old 10-04-2009, 10:39 AM
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Sequence...

Since the coolant flush procedure is pretty complicated on my 617 I may consider having an MB shop do the flushing. If I let them do the flush, should I replace the bypass hose BEFORE or AFTER they flush my coolant?
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  #14  
Old 10-04-2009, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MercFan View Post
Since the coolant flush procedure is pretty complicated on my 617 I may consider having an MB shop do the flushing. If I let them do the flush, should I replace the bypass hose BEFORE or AFTER they flush my coolant?
Do you want to spill new coolant or old coolant?
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  #15  
Old 10-04-2009, 12:33 PM
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Hehe

Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
Do you want to spill new coolant or old coolant?
'nuf said...

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