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  #1  
Old 11-12-2001, 11:09 AM
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Trans won't shift

I test drove an '85 300CD to replace the one I stupidly sold 5 months ago. As we started to drive away from the house, the trans wouldn't shift from 2nd to 3rd. I did get it to shift into "L" as we were moving slowly.

The transmission was supposed to have been rebuilt. The car has 231,000 miles and about 10K on a rebuilt engine. The owner said that the engine was rebuilt because he ran out of coolant and overheated the engine.

I noticed that there is a vacuum leak because the engine wouldn't shut off when turning the key. I know that the transmission shifting does have something to do with vacuum, but can a leak stop it from shifting all together? He is taking it to a transmission shop today.

The car needs some work, especially a good scrubbing. Chrome has peeled off the factory rims making them look terrible. Anyone have a place for factory painted rims? Needs new tires and a few other odds and ends. It's been repainted. Astral Silver/black MB-Tex (original). Water leaking into the rear passenger and drivers floorpans. Luckly not much and no rust (a California car). Needs a new muffler (not up to factory specs). Engine is dirty, but that's consistant with the rest of the car. It's not driven much anymore. Anyone changed the interior? I'm not sure about the MB-Tex. It looks like it's in good condition, but the pads look like they need replacing.

I got him down to $3500, so far. I'm going to try to get him down another $1000.

Anyhelp on the above questions are appreciated.

I think I need to change my screen name to 'The Rescuer' because whenever I see a CD, I want to buy it and bring it back to showroom condition.

Craig

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1994 E420, Pearl Black/Black. 2.82 rear diff., AMG front spoiler, painted lower half. SOLD

1972 & 1974 BMW 2002tii's.
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  #2  
Old 11-12-2001, 11:12 AM
LarryBible
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I expect that the problem is related to your vacuum leak.

There is an arrangement on top of the valve cover that simulates the vacuum made by a gas engine.

Check all your rubber vacuum connections, they will sometimes look perfect, but are split from age.

Good luck,
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  #3  
Old 11-12-2001, 11:22 AM
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Thanks Larry, I was hoping you'd see my post.

On the '85 California version there isn't any vacuum connections on the valve cover like in previous years. Any other location I shouls look at? I did notice that there are some connections in the enging that look like they need to be fixed.

Oh, the owner told me that the transmission started having trouble last week and has gotten worse.

Craig
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1994 E420, Pearl Black/Black. 2.82 rear diff., AMG front spoiler, painted lower half. SOLD

1972 & 1974 BMW 2002tii's.
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  #4  
Old 11-12-2001, 12:11 PM
LarryBible
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I'm obviously not totally familiar with your particular model. But the main thing is, the problem is almost certainly related to a vacuum leak somewhere.

Good luck,
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  #5  
Old 11-14-2001, 12:09 PM
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Usually in the extensive central locking system - try plugging up the vacuum to the central locking where it goes in thru the bulkhead, run for a couple of m,iles - if you achieve normal transmission, then work backwards thru the system till you isolate the leak. Allow 1 year! (learning curve)
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  #6  
Old 11-14-2001, 01:11 PM
VeeDubTDI
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Arrow vacuum leak

Yup, it's definitely a vacuum leak. My car was starting to have this problem before we sold it, but it never got to the point where it wouldn't turn off with the key.
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  #7  
Old 11-14-2001, 05:58 PM
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A vacuum leak WON'T keep the trans from shifting, but will make the shifts VERY hard.
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  #8  
Old 11-15-2001, 12:06 AM
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Hmmmm-

I spoke with the owner tonight and he said that it is shifting normal again. Maybe time for a rebuild? He said that was done though. Tranny flush and filter?

Craig
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1972 & 1974 BMW 2002tii's.
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  #9  
Old 11-15-2001, 11:59 AM
VeeDubTDI
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Red face oops, my mistake

Quote:
Originally posted by M.B.DOC
A vacuum leak WON'T keep the trans from shifting, but will make the shifts VERY hard.
Yes, that's true. I'm getting myself corn-fused. When I had a severe vacuum leak, it would lurch into gear and downshift abruptly and early... very uncomfortable.
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  #10  
Old 11-16-2001, 05:33 AM
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The fact that it's fine again means that a rebuild of the gearbox is not needed. A vacuum problem, depending on where in the system it is, can unaccountably get worse and better. If you imagine a series of flexible pipes and connectors all over the car, with many of these components subject to movement either physically [door opening, engine bay movement] or heat, then you have multiple points of failure. Get a Mityvac and pull vacuum at each part of the sytem and components; where the vacuum doesn't hold, there is a fault. Make sure all pipe to rubber connector unions are firmly home and tight. Usually though, esp in a CL system vehicle, the usual suspects are the actual vacuum units in the doors. An estate and saloon weak point is the hinge for the rear door/boot - that pipe can go. You can plug this up from under the drivers side carpet - it's almost a project at times - or you can be lucky. The problem is, it's labour intensive, and if you don't learn how to troubleshoot this problem yourself, you will pay $$$$£££££
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  #11  
Old 11-16-2001, 07:22 AM
LarryBible
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MB Doc,

Is your comment specific to his particular model? Both times that my daughter's '81 300D wouldn't shift, I found and fixed a vacuum leak to the contraption on top of the valve cover, and it fixed it both times. He said he doesn't have the contraption, how does the later trans know when to shift? You got my curiosity working overtime.

Thanks for sharing your experience with us.

Have a great day,
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  #12  
Old 11-16-2001, 08:50 AM
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Larry, M.B.DOC

I have a picture of the engine from my prevous '85 CD on my web site. It might load slowly unless you have a high speed connection.

As you can see, it doesn't have the vacuum connection on the valve cover. I'm sure that the same junction is located elsewhere. I don't think that MB would make big changes for 1 model year.

My indie told me that there are 5 vacuum junctions where the lines come together and can be checked and diagnosed easily. I bought a handheld vacuum pump from Sears when I had my other CD. I had a leak, but took it to my indie after I couldn't find it. He found it, and fixed it, within 1 hr. Turned out to be the gas flap door lock.

I did find some tubing in the engine that looks like it needs to be replaced, though not real bad. I'll be taking the car for another spin tomorrow or Sunday. We'll see what happens.

Craig
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1994 E420, Pearl Black/Black. 2.82 rear diff., AMG front spoiler, painted lower half. SOLD

1972 & 1974 BMW 2002tii's.
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  #13  
Old 11-16-2001, 03:22 PM
NIC
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Craig,

I may be able to help with rims. My '85 300CD also had flakey paint on factory alloy rims when I purchased it. There is a company that sells a spray can paint that is very close to OEM color and works well. I just took tires off, scrubbed each rim hard with steel wool to smooth edges where it was peeling, and sprayed several coats of the stuff on (used masking tape and newspaper to protect tire - would be better to take tire off rim but....). A year later they still look great and have not started to flake at all.

I'll check the name on the can and email you monday with it. Must buy two cans as I recall and its pricey but works well.

Nic
Columbia, SC
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  #14  
Old 11-16-2001, 10:26 PM
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Thanks Nic, but the rims were chromed ( I think cheaply) and the chrome is peeling off. It looks like the break dust had embedded itself and become one with the rim! I'm not sure if this is a DIY job by the way they look.

I'm using it as a negotiation tool to get the owner down another $1000 (rims, new Michelins and an alignment).
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1994 E420, Pearl Black/Black. 2.82 rear diff., AMG front spoiler, painted lower half. SOLD

1972 & 1974 BMW 2002tii's.
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  #15  
Old 12-08-2001, 08:39 PM
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OK, back to the trans issue. I need to fix it tomorrow for a 100 mile round trup to work on Monday.

I finally brought the car home today. Shifting seemed OK, but the 3 to 4 shift felt a bit funny. At a stop light, I gunned it and from then on, problems!

The car won't shift out of 1st until redline where it will go into 2nd and then quickly into 3rd. I can't seem to get it to go into 4th.

While I'm in 3rd, I can move the gear selector to 'S' and nothing seem to happen. No shifting into 2nd.

I think it must be an adjustment or a vacuum leak somewhere.

Please help!

Craig

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1972 & 1974 BMW 2002tii's.
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