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  #31  
Old 10-15-2009, 01:44 AM
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oddly enough this was the biggest response that I have ever gotten from a post. "Yak" gave me alot of information and a benchmark to start from and I am greatly appreciative for that and I will start on that Sunday as this is my next day off. I will let you know what I find out and exactly what the problem was. Thanks to everyone!

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  #32  
Old 10-15-2009, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SwampYankee View Post
Could this be the missing foglight beam?

Check the grounds....(corrosion at a ground terminal led to a fog light being out on mine once). Do the W123's have the right fog and left fog wired on separate circuits (fuses?) My W115 does. The other thing I had a problem with on my car (particularly the marker lights) when I first got it were the bulb sockets themselves. Some were corroded, cracked, or had poor connections. Not surprising as these cars have been out in the weather for more than several decades, and lights that aren't used much tend not to be inspected or have had bulb changes.

Periodic maintenance of one's Mercedesshop signature file is also helpful, and perhaps should become like the habit of changing all fluids and taking photos etc. that are must-do's when acquiring a new pre-owned Mercedes. That way you only need to write "1985 Mercedes 300D Turbodiesel" or "1979 Mercedes 300D" once, and it should be easy to tell whether you're turbocharged or not without the hassle of having to type it out every time you post, or perhaps Penguin stealing the rogue "T" off your trunk badge.
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  #33  
Old 10-15-2009, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by katja View Post
Penguin stealing the rogue "T" off your trunk badge.
I don't steal the Ts I let people use them without worry!
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  #34  
Old 10-16-2009, 01:10 AM
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Thanks for the tip on the grounds, I will check this out also.
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  #35  
Old 10-18-2009, 11:13 PM
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Smile

The switch is my problem! So, until I find one at a reasonable price, I have put a jumper between the low beam and the fog light on the passenger side so, the fog lights come on with the low beams and turn off when I have the high beams on. No worry with the fuse getting overloaded since #11 is in fact for the fog lights and the passenger side low beam.
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  #36  
Old 10-19-2009, 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by bradsscooters View Post
The switch is my problem! So, until I find one at a reasonable price, I have put a jumper between the low beam and the fog light on the passenger side so, the fog lights come on with the low beams and turn off when I have the high beams on. No worry with the fuse getting overloaded since #11 is in fact for the fog lights and the passenger side low beam.

heh, i was right. this whole thread was a bunch of conjecture after the first reply

gawd, i'm good
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  #37  
Old 10-19-2009, 06:02 AM
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Good, we won't have to worry about you asking anymore questions.

I believe the capital 'T' actually stands for transport and refers to a wagon. BTW. poke.

Jay
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  #38  
Old 10-19-2009, 10:34 AM
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The "wagon" is officially referred to, within Mercedes-Benz, as a "T123" or "T124".
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  #39  
Old 10-19-2009, 07:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradsscooters View Post
The switch is my problem! So, until I find one at a reasonable price, I have put a jumper between the low beam and the fog light on the passenger side so, the fog lights come on with the low beams and turn off when I have the high beams on. No worry with the fuse getting overloaded since #11 is in fact for the fog lights and the passenger side low beam.
Check the connections at the switch and possibly on the bottom of the fuse box before you buy a new switch. If it's really no kidding the switch, you can jumper the connections there and the fogs will come on.

Connector NSE is the input (should be gray/yellow or gray/green) and N is the output (gray/green). You might see if position NS on the switch works when pulled to the second detent, it's for the rear fog and would be an easy fix without replacing the switch. N for "nebel" = fog in German.

Last edited by Yak; 10-20-2009 at 09:12 PM.
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  #40  
Old 10-20-2009, 12:13 AM
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Thanks Yak, I will check the connections at the switch. Can you give me some insight on getting the light control out? I have never had to do this before so anything you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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  #41  
Old 10-20-2009, 09:11 PM
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I've never done it, but the FSM says to remove the battery terminal (remember unfused power does go straight to the switch) remove under-panel, pull off the knob (I have done that part!) unscrew the nut, remove the cover with symbols, then remove the switch in a downward direction. CORRECTION from above: pin 31 is the ground connection for the rear fog.

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