|
|
|
#31
|
|||
|
|||
oddly enough this was the biggest response that I have ever gotten from a post. "Yak" gave me alot of information and a benchmark to start from and I am greatly appreciative for that and I will start on that Sunday as this is my next day off. I will let you know what I find out and exactly what the problem was. Thanks to everyone!
|
#32
|
||||
|
||||
Could this be the missing foglight beam?
Check the grounds....(corrosion at a ground terminal led to a fog light being out on mine once). Do the W123's have the right fog and left fog wired on separate circuits (fuses?) My W115 does. The other thing I had a problem with on my car (particularly the marker lights) when I first got it were the bulb sockets themselves. Some were corroded, cracked, or had poor connections. Not surprising as these cars have been out in the weather for more than several decades, and lights that aren't used much tend not to be inspected or have had bulb changes. Periodic maintenance of one's Mercedesshop signature file is also helpful, and perhaps should become like the habit of changing all fluids and taking photos etc. that are must-do's when acquiring a new pre-owned Mercedes. That way you only need to write "1985 Mercedes 300D Turbodiesel" or "1979 Mercedes 300D" once, and it should be easy to tell whether you're turbocharged or not without the hassle of having to type it out every time you post, or perhaps Penguin stealing the rogue "T" off your trunk badge.
__________________
1976 240D "Katja" |
#33
|
||||
|
||||
I don't steal the Ts I let people use them without worry!
__________________
-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone. |
#34
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks for the tip on the grounds, I will check this out also.
|
#35
|
|||
|
|||
The switch is my problem! So, until I find one at a reasonable price, I have put a jumper between the low beam and the fog light on the passenger side so, the fog lights come on with the low beams and turn off when I have the high beams on. No worry with the fuse getting overloaded since #11 is in fact for the fog lights and the passenger side low beam.
|
#36
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
heh, i was right. this whole thread was a bunch of conjecture after the first reply gawd, i'm good
__________________
i know Jim Smith. i don't actually know him, but I know of him
http://imageshack.com/a/img923/6201/RQ1H6A.jpg |
#37
|
|||
|
|||
Good, we won't have to worry about you asking anymore questions.
I believe the capital 'T' actually stands for transport and refers to a wagon. BTW. poke. Jay
__________________
--------------------------------------------------- 1984 300D turbodiesel 1983 300TD |
#38
|
||||
|
||||
The "wagon" is officially referred to, within Mercedes-Benz, as a "T123" or "T124".
__________________
Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#39
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Connector NSE is the input (should be gray/yellow or gray/green) and N is the output (gray/green). You might see if position NS on the switch works when pulled to the second detent, it's for the rear fog and would be an easy fix without replacing the switch. N for "nebel" = fog in German. Last edited by Yak; 10-20-2009 at 09:12 PM. |
#40
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks Yak, I will check the connections at the switch. Can you give me some insight on getting the light control out? I have never had to do this before so anything you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
|
#41
|
|||
|
|||
I've never done it, but the FSM says to remove the battery terminal (remember unfused power does go straight to the switch) remove under-panel, pull off the knob (I have done that part!) unscrew the nut, remove the cover with symbols, then remove the switch in a downward direction. CORRECTION from above: pin 31 is the ground connection for the rear fog.
|
Bookmarks |
|
|