Does anybody have a pictorial on how to do the soldering on the cruise amp?
I am attempting it right now but have no idea if i should heat up all of the contacts or just some of them.
Mayday

Hit em all with just enough heat to melt the solder.

Didn't work for me though, so I got one with a guarantee off Ebay for around 35 bucks. Works perfect.

I did have success resoldering my climate control unit, so it's definitely worth a shot.

u can get rebuild from The Benz Store for $165.

i tried solder as well, didnt work (and was painful)

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Paul
Benz-less
I need an SDL !

I haven`t tried to solder any yet. I do know the components joint you are soldering will absorbe the heat from the solder tip and can be damaged.

Solder tip come in various sizes depending on what the job was.

I use to work for Sylvania 40 yrs ago and did a lot of soldering. we use a heat sink to pull the heat away from going into the component. this was usually for rework on the circuit boards.

the initial soldering of the boards was running them through a wave solder machine.

Charlie

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Pulled out my non-functioning cruise amp to re-solder it, and couldn't find any contacts that seemed to be broken. So I just went through to hit a few places I thought might be a problem, and it didn't fix anything. It was still doing the very same thing. Bought a guaranteed one off of eBay for $65 and everything's great now.

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-RF
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1999 E320 Wagon - 170,000 miles

That is excellent advice. You can make your own heat sink. But they are not that expensive anyway.

You also need to use a VERY low wattage soldering iron. I have worked on some pretty small electronics in the past and had great success with a 10 watt iron.

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AJ

1985 300D (SOLD)

When I was in a Navy electronics repair shop in Pensacola, we used regular hemostats for heat sinks. Those 'stats had a habit of disappearing...

I hear the backs of the cruise amp boards have a clearcoat that needs to be stripped off before re-soldering any components.

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