No primer pump on the 603 is correct - this requires the operator to "prime" the fuel system manually to ensure a relatively smooth idle upon first cranking. Even though the redesigned lift pump is supposed to make the system "self-bleeding," I have found more satisfactory results by purging the air through the injector lines.

First get the radiator hose out of the way by loosening the hose clamps and disconnecting it from the engine side only - at that point I turn it up perpendicular to keep from losing much coolant. Then get the brake booster vacuum hose out of the way (I just disconnect it from the vacuum pump)

Throw a couple of shop rags in the space under the canister housing and carefully maneuver the full canister into place threading the hollow screw into the canister until snug - the torque spec is 25 Nm. Reattach everything in place. Before cranking, crack each injector line, stuff rags around the injector line nuts, disconnect the glow plug relay (black box on the driver side fender well) get in the car, press the accelerator to the floor, and turn the engine over for 10 seconds, stop for twenty seconds, repeat for a total of 3 or 4 cycles of turning it over. Collect the rags, torque the injector nuts to spec, and reconnect the glow plug relay. Crank the engine and enjoy a smooth idling, airless fuel supply circuit.

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327K on 1986 W201, 602.911, 722.414 2.5 190D ("The Red Baron")
139K on 1993 W124, 104.942, 722.433 2.8 300E ("Queen")

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4081/...0bb92d3c_m.jpg http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/o...g?t=1325284354

Do not worry about your difficulties in Mathematics. I can assure you mine are still greater.
- Albert Einstein

take a walk down memory lane...

I did the filter change last night it was by far the easiest fuel filter change I ever did

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2003 GX470
1998 E300 3.0TD
2002 Dodge 2500 4x4 cummins
1998 Dodge 3500 5 speed Cummins