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  #1  
Old 10-18-2009, 11:37 PM
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B100 in E300D 1996

I just got a 55 gal barrel of B100 from a friend that just sold his TDI. Can I just put it in the tank or I will need to do some modifications? He said that he got better fuel economy on that so if is not a big hassle I will switch.
So I am trying to find out if the engine will be harmed in any way?
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  #2  
Old 10-18-2009, 11:39 PM
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its actually not possible to get better fuel mileage on bio diesel. it has chemical energy than diesel.
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  #3  
Old 10-18-2009, 11:59 PM
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At least can I use this barrel because is free and I don't want to trow it way?
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  #4  
Old 10-19-2009, 12:20 AM
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It might be worth your effort to slowly switch to B100 (start at B20, B50, work up). Pay attention to your filters and fuel lines, biodiesel reacts differently than D2.

With that said, biodiesel is fine to run straight, as long as it has been properly processed, dewatered, filtered, etc. When I ran B100 in my 240D, it was much quieter, however, there was a small, but noticeable drop in MPG. It also smelled like chinese food

I should also note that B100 has a much higher gel temperature than D2 (and especially winterized D2). As the weather gets colder, you have to pay attention to what is in your tank, and fuel lines, otherwise, you'll be pulling your hair out trying to get your car started.

Good luck
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  #5  
Old 10-19-2009, 12:55 AM
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I have used B100 in all my diesels including my 1996 E300D (W210, OM603NA) and currently use B20 in all of them. Biodiesel does tend to gradually dissolve natural rubber compounds including the injector return lines, fuel line connector o-rings, the fuel tank neck seal -- anything that biodiesel touches.

I agree with the suggestion that you try a blend of biodiesel and dino diesel. Since you have only 55 gallons, you can use a few gallons at a time and probably get away without making any changes to the car since B20 (for example) will not attack rubber as quickly as B100 will.

Change both fuel filters before beginning to use biodiesel and keep an eye on the primary filter and its o-ring. Any crud that the biodiesel dissolves off of the walls of the fuel tank and lines will end up in the filters. I never had problems with filters actually clogging but others have reported problems so watch closely.

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  #6  
Old 10-19-2009, 08:13 AM
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Run it.

My black 97 hasn't seen pump fuel in 54,000 miles. No fuel lines replaced yet.
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  #7  
Old 10-19-2009, 09:08 AM
92 300D 2.5L OBK #59
 
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I see that your in NY. DO NOT SWITCH TO B100. Pour some into a jar, seal and place in your freezer. See how it reacts. Does it freeze? Does it jell? Swirl it around has it gotten thicker? Running a B20 ratio may be fine. (8 gals Diesel/2 Gal Bio)
Once you know how it will behave in cold weather I would up the ratio, but being up north I wouldn't switch right over.
Biodiesel is a good lubricant, helps with lubricity in ULSD. Bio is also a good solvent. It will dissolve any residues in your tank that is why they tell you to keep an eye on your fuel filters. I'm all for Biodiesel I try to run it in my 92 300D when every I can. You just have to take a few precautions. Or at least be aware of them.
Interesting reading...
http://www.biodiesel.org/pdf_files/Changes_in_Diesel_Fuel.pdf
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Last edited by bobodaclown; 10-19-2009 at 09:14 AM.
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  #8  
Old 10-19-2009, 09:17 AM
Craig
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If you need to dispose of it by using it, I would recommend blending it as B5 with real fuel during warm weather only. That shouldn't do any damage and it won't hurt your mileage significantly. Since it's free, it will effectively increase your fuel mileage by a couple of percent.

BTW, is this commercial or homemade BD? If it's homemade, you need to trust that the person who made it knows what he's doing. I probably wouldn't bother with homemade myself.
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  #9  
Old 10-19-2009, 10:11 AM
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If it is ASTM fuel you won't harm your engine. And you can run it RIGHT NOW.

It shouldn't be a problem right now on a B80 blend. Or if it hasn't even gotten down to freezing and won't for awhile, you can run B100. We have seen temps down to 20F already. I have B80 from the pump in both my suburban and Mercedes. Both started up and ran without problems in these temps.

So if you follow others' advice on B20, you should be able to run it all winter (unless it gets to -10 to -20F where you live, then probably just B5. In MN ALL diesel is B5, even when it is -20F out).
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  #10  
Old 10-19-2009, 12:01 PM
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Normally, you would have no problem running B100, BUT as Bobo pointed out, you live in NY. NY - this time of year = cold.
One of the weak points of B100 is it will usually gell at a lot higher temperature than #2. The solution?

Simple, I would run B50 (half Biodiesel and half #2). This mixture should do fine until at least 10-15 d F. If you want to test, put the B100 in a jar, then another jar with 50/50 in a freezer. Check the temp and see when they gel. The 50/50 normally should not gel in a regular freezer.

Let us know how it goes. BTW, running B20-B50 you should not really see any difference in fuel mileage.
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  #11  
Old 10-19-2009, 01:28 PM
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FWIW - My 99 gets ~10% less fuel economy burning B99 vs D2.

The only issue you should have is gelling. If an oring does fail, it was already deterioated and would have eventually failed burning D2 as well. Bio can hasten the process. I doubt 2.5 tankfuls would cause much of a problem.
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