Broken shock (actuator) mounting bolt - How Bad?

[D_Ryan]

So I was working on the '85 300TD this morning to replace a leaking passenger side hydropneumatic actuator (rear shock). Got the SLS line disconnected at the top, drained the fluid, top mount loosened, making good progress...

Under the car, cracked the first lower shock mounting bolt loose, and went for the other one. Started to turn, and then the bolt head sheared off!

Did not proceed with removal of the other bolt, actuator, etc., simply buttoned everything back up and gently moved the car out of the drive and into the street.

Believe a fix is beyond my driveway capability, so it'll be off to my indy (on a rollback, not going to risk driving it with only one lower actuator mount bolt in place).

In the estimation of the forum members, what's going to be involved in making this right? Will they need to remove the trailing arm, etc. in order to remove the broken fastener? What's the likelihood they'll even be able to manage that? Am I looking at a new trailing arm?

Thanks,
Dave

[C Sean Watts]

IF it's broken clear enough to pull off the works provided you can get the other bolt(s) out, Sears has a set of of "bolt out" sockets just for your predicament. I would also soak the non broken one in PB Blaster or something like it overnight. If you can get to the thread side, do it, too. The next day, slightly tighten it, add a squirt more P.O. then remove.

They come in 'regular' and low profile. I've used them and they are good. "Easy out" or other drill and insert types are best avoided. Look here