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  #1  
Old 10-20-2009, 11:23 PM
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Get that tank strainer cleaned!

Changed out the tank strainer on the 300 Turbo and couldn't believe how clogged up it was. Probably should clean the tank, but we'll save that for another day. Couple things that I learned from the job.

1)if you disconnect the fuel line and the diesel flows slowly for a while and then stops, then it's probably clogged. As I found out when about 1 gallon of diesel came flying out when I took out the fuel strainer.

2)When the fuel gauge needle is around the R to 1/4, then you have about 5 gallons of diesel in the car.

3)No need to buy another fuel strainer. Simply buy the O-ring($4 at dealer) and clean out the fuel strainer with a toothbrush.

4)The best tool to remove the fuel strainer is the $25 tool that mercedes-source sells. I used a 3/4 46mm with an assortment of tools(3/4 T-bar, 1/2 to 3/4 adapter and using a vice wrench on the adapter). Just buy their tool and save yourself the headache.

5)There are 3 fuel lines in the back. The return and vent lines that are optional to change. The fitted line that is 19mm at the top and connects to the fuel strainer.

6)Change out the optional fuel lines in the back while you doing the fuel strainer. It's quite simple and easy with the diesel out of the car.

7)You might want to filter the fuel before putting it back. I used 2 home depot buckets that I bought for $2.50 each to do this. Also used a pump to put the diesel back in the car. You could use a siphon if you want.

Hope that helps someone in the future. Cheers guys Here's a pic of that strainer



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1983 300 Turbo-"Nora"
1983 240D Auto "Lucia"-slowest on earth-1st love
1985 300 Turbo-Blue Goose-slowly plucking parts

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  #2  
Old 10-21-2009, 05:30 AM
ImBroke's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brownrice78 View Post
I found out when about 1 gallon of diesel came flying out when I took out the fuel strainer.
Been there, got the diesel bath tee shirt twice so far. Isnt' it great!! lol
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  #3  
Old 10-21-2009, 07:59 AM
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Good job!

I remember when I did mine. The needle was on the line by the R and I still had 5 + gallons in there when I drained it.

The screen in my tank came out amazingly clean, but I had been running B20 for a few months, then a tank of B99 before I drained. I did not want that nasty D #2 smell in my yard or on my body. I was not sure how messy the job would be. It turned out to be pretty simple and clean job. So, I just blasted the tank strainer with carb. cleaner, installed a new o-ring and put it back in there.
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  #4  
Old 10-21-2009, 08:57 AM
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I think I'll pass on this.
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  #5  
Old 10-21-2009, 09:41 AM
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Location: Rochester, NY
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As the great warrior said...

I love the smell of diesel in the morning

As a side note, I bought the 1 13/16" socket from Sears...IMO not worth a special tool nor shipping costs...it was a tight clearance but it worked...the same size fits my fuel guage sending unit as well...might as well clean that puppy too if you're really hunting for goo....

Search the threads on the sending unit, if you're tank strainer is fudged up, the sending unit will be too.

Cheap fix and you can use the clothes you wear to start your next fire to grill up lunch!
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  #6  
Old 10-21-2009, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brownrice78 View Post
Changed out the tank strainer on the 300 Turbo and couldn't believe how clogged up it was. Probably should clean the tank, but we'll save that for another day. Couple things that I learned from the job.

1)if you disconnect the fuel line and the diesel flows slowly for a while and then stops, then it's probably clogged. As I found out when about 1 gallon of diesel came flying out when I took out the fuel strainer.

2)When the fuel gauge needle is around the R to 1/4, then you have about 5 gallons of diesel in the car.

3)No need to buy another fuel strainer. Simply buy the O-ring($4 at dealer) and clean out the fuel strainer with a toothbrush.

4)The best tool to remove the fuel strainer is the $25 tool that mercedes-source sells. I used a 3/4 46mm with an assortment of tools(3/4 T-bar, 1/2 to 3/4 adapter and using a vice wrench on the adapter). Just buy their tool and save yourself the headache.

5)There are 3 fuel lines in the back. The return and vent lines that are optional to change. The fitted line that is 19mm at the top and connects to the fuel strainer.

6)Change out the optional fuel lines in the back while you doing the fuel strainer. It's quite simple and easy with the diesel out of the car.

7)You might want to filter the fuel before putting it back. I used 2 home depot buckets that I bought for $2.50 each to do this. Also used a pump to put the diesel back in the car. You could use a siphon if you want.

Hope that helps someone in the future. Cheers guys Here's a pic of that strainer

thank you for the write up, good job. I love Show and Tell.
show us a picture of the special tool, would be interesting.

Charlie
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  #7  
Old 10-21-2009, 12:31 PM
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That's right! Good idea to also clean out the sending unit when you do this. I actually cleaned it out and forgot to mention . Cleaning out the sending unit is quite easy. Simply unplug the wiring harness, use the 46mm socket, pull the sending unit out, take it apart by gripping the bottom nut with pliers and CAREFULLY clean it.

The special tool is a 46mm that you can use a 3/8 wrench on. Otherwise, you'll have to use a 3/4 wrench or T-bar which is a huge tool to fit down there! I ended up using the T-bar to break the strainer loose and then used a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter attached to the 46mm socket. That way I had something to grip. Then I used a vice wrench on the adapter to turn the socket. High IQ , I know
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1983 300 Turbo-"Nora"
1983 240D Auto "Lucia"-slowest on earth-1st love
1985 300 Turbo-Blue Goose-slowly plucking parts

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o...ly15/mbsig.jpg
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  #8  
Old 10-21-2009, 09:11 PM
Yak Yak is offline
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Doc Sarvis built a tool, see post 21 here: Tank screen blocked, can't remove it

x3 on the "5 gallons left" at the R or just below. You need to get the tank down looooooow to have a small amount left.
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  #9  
Old 10-21-2009, 10:47 PM
RML RML is offline
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After you cleaned the strainer and sending unit, did your reserve light start to work again, assuming it was not working before, like mine is not working?

When I had to change my vent and return lines, I got a diesel can and kept some diesel fuel in the trunk. Then I let the car run out of fuel and put a gallon or so back in, just enough to get home. So I knew how much was in there that I had to deal with. You have to be careful though, as to where you are driving. I was on roads where I could easily pull off and add some fuel. You don't want to run out as you are making a turn, crossing traffic.

A smarter idea would probably be to just siphon the fuel out, without taking a mouthful of diesel, or course. Diesel breath, yuk. Scares the women away.
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  #10  
Old 10-21-2009, 11:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RML View Post
A smarter idea would probably be to just siphon the fuel out, without taking a mouthful of diesel, or course. Diesel breath, yuk. Scares the women away.
If you were truly brilliant, you'd run the return line into a 10 gallon container........start the engine.......and go back inside the house for a relaxing cup of coffee...........
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  #11  
Old 10-22-2009, 12:45 AM
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I went through this exercise a couple of months ago. I have a 3/4 drive SAE socket set and the closest size is 1-7/8 which is a bit over 46 mm. It works fine to remove the fuel sender but not so well on the fuel strainer, which is difficult to access with the big and heavy socket. Driving it was very difficult if not impossible with 3/4 drive. Reducing down to 1/2 or 3/8 was also very difficult because the drive shaft was in the way. . The nut on the strainer is very thin (a little over 1/8 thick) and the chamfer in the socket does not help and it keeps slipping off the strainer. I think I did try to grind the chamfer away but it didn't help (still slipped off). Maybe if I started with a 46 mm socket it would have worked OK. I ended up taking the tank out. The ideal tool is not a big heavy socket but a 46 mm thin box end wrench with a bend in it like the valve adjusting wrench. One of the wrench in the Harbor Freight fan clutch wrench set may possibly be modified with a bend (if the 40 mm is a long handle and can be ground out to 46 mm).


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90341

After I got the strainer out, I cut the strainer off completly . I didn't have the parts at the time but if I get my hands on another strainer I will cut the strainer off and add a floating pickup and never worry about bottom gunk or water.
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  #12  
Old 10-22-2009, 01:32 AM
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I just replaced the fuel/brake lines on my brother's 300D....to empty the tank I used a pump siphon....you pump it a few times and it gets the siphon going, then you can let it work at it. I drained 13 gallons out of it this way, no mess. When I pulled the strainer it was actually quite clean! And, only about 2-3oz of fuel left in the tank when I pulled it, easily caught in my oil change tub...no running the engine necessary.
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  #13  
Old 10-31-2009, 02:50 PM
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made a wrench

Found this 41 mm open end in my junk. I think it was a fork wrench from a bike (MC) that I had years ago. Grinder did the rough out and file for the final dimensioning to 46 mm- fits like a glove! The bend was already there when I dug it up. Tried it on the fuel sender- it works like a charm! Much more approppropriate than a humongus 3/4 drive 1-7/8 socket I been using! Haven't tried it on the fuel strainer but will post back when I do.


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