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#1
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Do Mercedes window regulators really suck this bad???
I have a 92 and a 96 300 diesel, BOTH have the right rear window jacked. The window drops as I drive, when I try to put it up, you hear the motor spinning and nothing moves, and I just find it odd that it happened to the same window on both cars. Is this too difficult to fix? Any other thoughts on what the problem could be?
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1996 E300 D 1992 300D 1990 Ford E-350 7.3 Diesel AKA "the Deep Fryer" |
#2
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FWIW the older cars actually have very robust window lifters. People get frustrated with them alot but most do have 300k+ on them. After the 80's german electronics seem to have gone downhill though
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1981 300SD 512k OM603 |
#3
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Quote:
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#4
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The regulators are very easy to fix. Just like most everything else on these cars!
You need to take it out to see what's wrong. It could be the motor, sliding jaw (some people call this part a bushing, use sliding jaw in the SEARCH function) or the rivets could have popped. You can prop it up with some wood and still drive the car while you work on the regulator. Danny
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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles OBK member #23 (\__/) (='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your (")_(") signature to help him gain world domination |
#5
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In my opinion, to answer the title of this thread:
YES But that's compared to manual roll windows. The way the motor/regulator assembly is put together has a few rivets and items made of pot metal that are bound to fail. The motors are fine for many hundreds of thousands of miles. The only other issue with the windows that I see is that, on the W123 at least, they put the window switches on the center console, aka coffee filter.
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I-------------------------------------1981 300TD, Thistle Green, 140K------------------------------------I
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#6
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I've had my W126 for 6.5 years so far and have yet for anything to go wrong with any of the windows. In fact, last winter my window seal froze to the glass so when I tried to open the window it split the seal and dragged it down with it. Strong!! (It was about 2F outside, so the seal just snapped apart)
I replaced the seal....but my window still works fine. The motor is getting weaker, and will probably need replacement in the not too distant future, but that would be the first window repair I've ever done to my car.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#7
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A little PM goes a long way too.
Grease those window tracks!
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----Adam 1985 300SD 322,000 |
#8
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Yep, I do keep my window tracks greased well!
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#9
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YES THEY DO.....When I bought mine the pass rear was stuck down. This was the sliding jaw. Temp fix was to pull the window up by hand almost to the top then let the motor catch it till it closed all the way. Then the pass front just quit. No up, no down, no noise, no nothing. Checked the switch and that was no help so still working on that one. Then this morning, stopped at the gate for an ID check at work and the drivers side suddenly would not roll down. Had worked fine when I left the house as I rolled it down to get a little condensation off the window so I could see out of it. Can hear the motor trying to move as I cycle the switch but the window does not budge. Tried to move the window a bit by hand while working the switch but nothing. Will investigate further later. So right now only my drivers rear works and it is in need of a sliding jaw as well as there is a bit of play in it. Great thing is no AC so I am rather window dependent. The challenges of a 25 year old automobile. Sure beats car payments though.
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1974 450SL White/Navy Blue 1983 300SD White/Parchment, VDO Boost Guage, 215/60R15 Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS Pole Positions on 15X7 15 Hole Wheels, Straight Piped, 298K? 2004 Ford Excursion XLT 4X4, 5.4L V8, 285/65R16 BFG AT KO |
#10
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My 85SD bent the arm on the window regulator. The salvage yard gets $100 for motor and regulator. I ordered new slider from fastlane & lubed the tracks. One window is a little slow still but not in critical pre-failure mode. I'd like a parts car but gotta find a good one cheap. Problem is that the MB cars I've found can all be fixed and are in wonderful shape compared to rusty 70s era Datsun Zs that I also like to play with. I haven't been able to bring myself to stripping what can/should be repaired.
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#11
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The 13 yrs I have owned the 85 123, I have only replaced the drivers window regulator. that was about 5 yrs ago.
I was thinking of bolting the reg where the rivits snapped off to line it up, and then welding it back together. my rear windows are a little slow, maybe from lack of use and I need to get in there and lube things up some. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#12
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Yes. And why is it always the Passenger side REAR window? At least 3 of my cars have had issues with that window. Does it get opened the most?
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
#13
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Quote:
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TC Current stable: - 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL - 2007 Saturn sky redline - 2004 Explorer...under surgery. Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth |
#14
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You have a different vehicle; but, on mine both of the Rear Window regulator plates were severly warped and bent (pot metal). I replaced one and bet back the other and put Steel reinforcement Plats on both so they would never bend again.
If you want to see what I did: A Question for the Injection "Masters" When I ordered I was actually hoping to get an aftermarket one thinking it would be made stronger. But, they sent OM; had the Mercedes Star Logo and part numbers on the parts bag.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#15
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OK, two questions for this thread:
1) I see to grease the window tracks. I assume this is the rubber on either side of the window frame? What do you use? 2) Is a window that goes up and down very slowly, but correctly, a case of a bad regulator, bad motor, or something else? Thanks!
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
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