Also check that you don't have a large vacuum leak somewhere. Excessive vacuum pump exhaust into the crankcase could contribute to this problem.

I'd like to check for a vacuum, where do I start and I do I go about doing that.

I also went out to Kragen and got a couple of orings, since the one from the dealer won't arrive until Tue. The Kragen oring seemed a little larger and certainly a tight fit going into the tube. Drove it around the block a few times gunning it up to 4000 and I got a little black smoke behind me but no oil in the engine b/c the dipstick stayed in place. I'll report back when I get the eom oring on Tue.

Theres another car that was killed by veggy oil.

Wonder how many more diesel engines will have to be ruined before people start running them on the correct fuel, which is diesel or biodiesel.

__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

Are you sure you didn't overfill the oil?

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Anyone have a theory as to why the 606 might be more prone to ring sticking when running vegetable oil than say a 617 engine?

I've seen very few, if any references to stuck rings and/or very excessive blowby (pushing out dipsticks and/or blowing oil from the fill caps) on 617's but there are several instances reported here and elsewhere with the 606 engines.

There are clearly differences in the engines but I can't see anything that should make a 606 less tolerant than a 617. Any theories?

The 606 produces more power for its displacement than a 617. Higher effective internal cylinder pressures under operation? Could tend to drive unburnt vegatable oil deeper into the ring areas if so. Or the engine just accumulates the residue in the ring areas much faster than a 617 as a result.

My '99 E300 has had excessive blowby for the past few months. Under hard acceleration/high rpm it would blow the dipstick out and pump oil everywhere. Ziptie the dipstick in place and it would blow oil past the filler cap. Crankcase pressure (measured today with gauge plumbed in place of the dipstick) would spike beyond 10 psi as soon as the revs got near 4,000.

Found a post on a UK website where a guy used crude water injection to clean combustion chambers and free the rings. I copied the simple setup that the guy there used - (a washer fluid pump misting water through the crankcase breather hose entry point ahead of the turbo). In my case, I just used the contents of the washer reservoir (water/methanol in there anyway..).

Drove about 40 miles highway, 2500 - 2700 rpm with the pump/mist setup running. Pumped about 5 liters of washer fluid through the engine. Problem solved, no excessive blow by. Crankcase pressure stays at or near zero even when running uphill at or near redline. Let is sit overnight, changed the oil and filter this morning. Problem solved.

Obviously don't want to continue putting water in ahead of the turbocharger. I'm going to add a water/methanol injection kit that will come on at high boost to both of the E300's. Hopefully this will keep the problem (no doubt caused by running WVO with our 2 tank conversions) from recurring. Should have added benefit of reducing EGT's on the kid's '98, which is chipped.

Still don't know why the 606 engines have this problem when others don't, but it looks like water or water/methanol injection can overcome it and keep this experiment on the road.

Careful with the greasecar kit. I've got one and I took out my injectors for a compression test and found carbon deposits consistent with low fuel temperature before injection. You need a Flat Plate Heat Exchanger. The heated fuel filter isn't enough to bring the oil up to 160* F.

__________________
1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold

1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition

Yep. Thanks. I don't use Greasecar. Both of the E300's have aluminum tanks in the trunk with Hot Fox coolant heated fuel withdrawal units, coolant heated inverted and insulated spin on filters (also in trunk), hose on hose fuel lines to engine bay, 12 Volt fuel heaters just before fuel enters the injection pumps. So, two heat exchangers and then the electric heater. Next time I have the manifold off I'll probably add a fuel temp sensor before the injection pump so I can see exactly what the fuel temperature is before it hits the IP. Can always add another heat exchanger if temp is an issue. Will probably pull the injectors when the car hits 200,000 next year.

quick update: Installed a water/methanol injection kit. Sprays mist into the charge air pipe after the intercooler based on manifold pressure. Currently have it kicking on at about 10 psi since I primary objective is to keep the rings clean despite running WVO. Also had the car chipped so boost is higher than stock. So far, so good. Crankcase pressure (measured through dipstick hole) staying at zero despite running evil WVO through a turbocharged 606. We'll see if the "fix" is permanent or not..

http://www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/forum/viewthread.php?tid=14628&page=1



http://www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/forum/viewthread.php?tid=15095&page=1


Do a search on the site for 'blowby' and there is a lot more info.

Mt transmission oil cooler line was leaking and had to be replaced.

I'm sure it's because I had been running WVO this past summer.

__________________
Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

I do not know if a benz has a boost blow off valve like some of the other turbo stuff we have worked on but

the turbo boost valve is dumping into the oil return i have seen before and that will cause that pictular problem - jz

Any details on this "kit"?

__________________
Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

Whoops, never got back to this post. The water injection kit I bought was from Alcohol Injection Systems (www.alcoholinjectionsystems.com). Intended purpose is to inject methanol or water/methanol into the intake to increase power and/or reduce exhaust gas temps. Lots of suppliers out there and you could certainly build your own. To the original point of this thread, I installed a 2-tank veg oil conversion in my '99 E300 at about 140,000 miles. After about 50,000 miles of veg oil driving it would blow the dipstick out under hard acceleration/heavy load.

Measured crankcase pressure through the dipstick hole and it was spiking past 10psi. WI kit solved the problem. I have a 2 gallon tank and high pressure pump in the tank, boost activated switch comes on at 10 psi manifold pressure, 3 gallon per hour stainless nozzle sprays water mist into vertical part of the charge air pipe. 15,000 more veg miles since and zero issues. Running blue washer fluid in winter, straight tap water in warm weather. My car now runs on vegetable oil and water 99% of the time.

** Same systems in our '98 E300. Have the head off to fix frozen glow plugs and the cylinders, piston tops, prechambers, injectors all look great. That car has about 25,000 vegoil miles on it. No signs of destruction in there at all.