valve adjustment sheet confusion
 

Hi folks i just have a little confusion when it comes to which valve is intake and which is exhaust, ive been playing mostly with 603's so please forgive my ignorance.
On the diesel giant 5 cylinder sheet for example it is not very clear to me which is the intake and exhaust and which feeler gauge goes to which one, if someone would be so kind to go from radiator to firewall for me one by one i would be in debt.
I have same .102 and .305 feeler gauges as he displays on the tutorial, anyway im lost.
And another quick question, if i loosen the bottom nut clockwise does the adjustment then go counterclockwise?
Valve adjustment for dummies here.
Many thanks
Ep

There is a correct sheet somewhere but double check and just look at the manifold next to that valve. Does it go to the exhaust or intake manifold?

I don't use that sheet as a reference. Just to jot down the clearances as I go. As stated above, just look at the exhaust and intake manifold. Pretty hard to screw it up. The valves correspond directly with those ports.

If I remember correctly... When I printed out DG's sheet, I think I had to turn it around to make it work.

Front to back it runs: Ex In In Ex Ex In In Ex Ex In

Not sure what motor you have, exhaust clearance is supposed to be .30mm for non-turbo and .35mm for turbo.

Roughly, my technique is:

1 - Loosen bottom nut (CW) while holding top one steady, if possible. May have to slightly turn top one very slightly (CCW) to get them apart.

2 - Adjust top nut to just a hair tighter clearance than I ultimately want it at, and bring bottom nut up to just touch it.

(2b) - You may want to ensure the clearance stays steady when the valve is rotated. If not, set clearance at tightest spot.

3 - Hold top nut steady and start tightening bottom against top (CCW), then give top nut a slight snugging down (CW) as they get to final togetherness.

4 - If all went well, the clearance is now correct and the nuts are tight.

The play between the threads that gets taken up when you tighten the two nuts together is where the weirdness happens. Get a feel for that and you're all set.

If someone has a better way, I'm all ears too!

Here's the info I use.
617.

Sweet too many.
Job done, ALL AND I MEAN ALL WERE TIGHT!

Now half of my rough idle problems are gone, but a driver side motor mount looks shot, would this alone cause me to be a little jerky jerky?
I have new fuel filters, valve adjustment double checked, and passenger side motor mount is new, im thinking the driver side is making car move a bit.
Any thoughts?

Check the rack damper.

I had a rough idle from the an old style primer handle unscrewing loose.

Sixto
87 300D

Agreed, is the "shakes" at all temps, or only after warmed up?

shakes at iddle mostly when hot, right after the valve adjustment was reduced quite a bit, but now i see driver side motor mount is collapsed and what looks like a little leak at some of the injectors.

Okay, if the mount is collapsed, deal with that.

Sorry Jose, I was in church this morning when you called and had my phone on stun, which I never feel. :( By the time I got your voice mail I saw you already had the valves adjusted. Good job and sorry I missed you.....

I fixed this sheet up so we can print it and use, i found it most useful.

Thanks, but...
 

I like that you drew up the valve adjust sheet...I have been meaning to do it for years. My only comment (not meaning to go negative, just constructive criticism)is that you colored in the intake valves black, and left the exhaust valve circles clear...It should be the other way around....exhaust valves black and sooty, air intake valves - clean clear air.

In the MBZ manuals, that is the scheme they use.

Just a minor point.

Thanks,

Mark

okidoki
 

Ok peoples, by popular demand, the new and improved 617 sheet.
Enjoy
Europower

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