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  #31  
Old 10-27-2009, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
The hydraulic rams are designed to always carry some portion of the load.
agree

Quote:
If you follow your method, with no load, the springs would be carrying the full load
diagree


Quote:
I thought there was a definitive post in the last year or so which resolved the debate in favor of the second camp???
i never saw anything like that


maybe the attached will help make things more clear.


from 32-501 p3

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Last edited by johninva; 10-27-2009 at 12:16 PM.
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  #32  
Old 10-27-2009, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nhdoc View Post
I have not found it (yet) but if it does exist could you post a link to it?
When I get some time to search, I'll try to find it. I think it may have been a quote from the FSM if my memory is reliable.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
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1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
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1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #33  
Old 10-27-2009, 12:53 PM
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how much more definitive do you need than what i just posted from the fsm ?

Quote:
I just checked mine and it is now set at around 13.75-14" which sounds high but is more or less equal to the front so the car is "level". If I set it back to 12.75-13" it will be lower in the rear than in front...don't know if that is correct ride height or not but it looks strange to be sloping back like that.
i think thats too high. I think maybe you are trying to make the rear fender lip be level with the front one, but i dont think they are supposed to be like that. i think rather, the body trim should be parallel to the ground
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  #34  
Old 10-27-2009, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johninva View Post
how much more definitive do you need than what i just posted from the fsm ?
I think this contradicts your prior posts though where I interpreted your statements that the way to set this up was to set it where the springs support the rear and the arm on the valve is then level.

The section from the FSM you supplied does seem to imply that setting it up by using the SLS system to set the height would be the correct method, though this clearly isn't an "instruction" on how to set it up - rather it is a discussion of the theory of operation. Still it is pretty conclusive that the SLS system is intended to work with the springs to support the rear end all the time, not just when there is a load in the back.

Thanks for posting this.
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Last edited by nhdoc; 10-27-2009 at 01:08 PM.
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  #35  
Old 10-27-2009, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by johninva View Post
i think thats too high. I think maybe you are trying to make the rear fender lip be level with the front one, but i dont think they are supposed to be like that. i think rather, the body trim should be parallel to the ground

I think you are correct...just checked with a level along the bottom of the rocker and the car does slope up now toward the rear...I will reset it to 13" and check again.
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  #36  
Old 10-27-2009, 01:19 PM
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Love this forum, as the OP (and I read the FSM on this also) it seems that the struts DO carry some of the pressure in the neutral position to allow for dampening action along with the springs. Yesterday, I crawled under the car (its on ramps) and moved the UNCONNECTED SLS valve lever to the neutral position which is 3'oclock, (it was between 3 and 4 oclock) started the car and ran it to pressurize and then left it overnight and this morning, the car is still holding its height 13.5 inches from wheel star center to fender lip. Today, I will RECONNECT the adjustment arm after I shorten it a little to accomodate the neutral position setting and see what happens - last time I connected adjustment arm, car would lower after I shut off which made me believe that pressure on the SLS valve shaft created a leaking (internal) situation. I will report back with results -thank you to everyone for your comments -James
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  #37  
Old 10-27-2009, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
That does seem to imply that setting it up by using the SLS system to set the height would be the correct method,
I dont read it that way.
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Last edited by johninva; 10-31-2009 at 08:20 PM.
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  #38  
Old 10-27-2009, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warmblood58 View Post
Love this forum, as the OP (and I read the FSM on this also) it seems that the struts DO carry some of the pressure in the neutral position to allow for dampening action along with the springs. Yesterday, I crawled under the car (its on ramps) and moved the UNCONNECTED SLS valve lever to the neutral position which is 3'oclock, (it was between 3 and 4 oclock) started the car and ran it to pressurize and then left it overnight and this morning, the car is still holding its height 13.5 inches from wheel star center to fender lip. Today, I will RECONNECT the adjustment arm after I shorten it a little to accomodate the neutral position setting and see what happens - last time I connected adjustment arm, car would lower after I shut off which made me believe that pressure on the SLS valve shaft created a leaking (internal) situation. I will report back with results -thank you to everyone for your comments -James
I'll try this method too.
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  #39  
Old 10-28-2009, 10:02 PM
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Solved!

As promised, I am reporting back to forum. Today. I put a drill bit in the orientation hole that allows you to lock in valve lever at 3 o'clock (neutral position) and adjusted height arm to meet this new range. Previously, the lever was between 3 and 4 o'clock which allowed valve to bleed off. Car is presently holding this height fine (13.25 in from center of wheel star to center of fender lip) with engine off. Hope to see this same measurement in the morning! Many thanks to all who responded!
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  #40  
Old 10-31-2009, 12:30 AM
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This information is right out of section 32-530 "Checking pressure oil pump and level controller" of the MB series 123 service manual .

Guarantee basic pressure 30 bar + or - 8 bar .

I believe that is around 450 psi .

I would think that is enough pressure to effect the ride height, I'm not sure how much though . We need someone with a working system to crack their bleed valve and see how much the car drops .

They explain in the manual to check the pressure you hook a gauge up to the bleed screw spot on the controller . With the engine running move the disconnected SLS lever up to fill position . When the gauge goes up to 130 bars .Return the lever to neutral . That is the minimum amount of pressure that needs to be produced by the pump . They say not to bother to see what the max pressure is . Next , stop the engine , set the lever to empty[down] and read the gauge ,wait 5 min. read again, wait 4 hours read again . Leave on overnight , read again . " The basic pressure should not drop".

A far as setting the ride height by adjusting the connecting rod , they say don't do it . It makes the car unstable around alternating bends because the damping force of the spring struts is reduced . Also if you drive with a lot of weight in the car the max pressure is met and you could here the pressure relief valve popping or hissing along with oil flow and knocking noises .

The SLS lever is set by using a 4mm rod through the locating bores on the lever and valve body . With the connecting rod disconnected and the car running . Move the lever up to fill . When the car raises up move the lever down to empty . Turn the car off, move the lever up to the point where the 4mm rod will line up through the bores .If your car is sagging and you do have basic pressure in the system something else is wrong .

And here is a sentence verbatim right out of the manual .
"If the level is to low in ready-to-drive condition of vehicle , correction should therefore be made at rear springs."

There is also a whole bunch of stuff on checking the trailing arm positions in relation to proper vehicle level . This seems to be beyond most people ability as there are a lot of special tools involved .

Hope this helps . Spike.
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  #41  
Old 10-31-2009, 06:27 AM
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Spike seems to have nailed it (sorry about that pun).

I set mine up the same way the OP did, which is just about the same procedure as the FSM says and it rides right at 12 3/4" from the CL of the wheel to the lower lip of the fender. No more setting height at the valve for me.
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  #42  
Old 11-06-2009, 12:19 AM
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Here's the post I had in mind I think:

1985 300TD wagon sls parts search and advice

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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