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  #1  
Old 10-27-2009, 02:13 PM
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tips on removing transmission hardline

I have to replace the passenger side transmission cooler hard steel line, the one next to the exhaust. What has to come off to get it out? Thx.

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  #2  
Old 10-27-2009, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
I have to replace the passenger side transmission cooler hard steel line, the one next to the exhaust. What has to come off to get it out? Thx.

did this a couple of months ago. I didn't have to remove anything other than the mounting clamps that are on the oil pan.

Let me tell you though, it is an exercise of patience getting them out and back in. When you do get them back in after the 100th try, you will wonder why they didn't just go like that the first time you tried it

If you need some lines check your local pick and pull. I got a set that had no damage for $20. The guy thought I had brake lines, thus the lower price. Good luck.
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  #3  
Old 10-27-2009, 04:58 PM
Craig
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On mine, I had to loosen the front exhaust clamp to get clearance. Other than that it was just a matter os snaking it through. Make sure you replace all the grommets to protect the new line.
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  #4  
Old 10-28-2009, 06:44 AM
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The only real "tip" for this job....

Replacing the oil cooler lines is an execise in futility.....in the end it is possible to snake these lines in after removal...myself and many on this site have done it. But as others have said, after you remove the old ones, and try to install the new ones, you can't believe that they will actually go in, and once you snake the lines in, it is almost impossible to figure out their proper orientation (its not THAT bad, but it is bad...its like trying to figure out a rubics cube, or one of those little metal puzzles that come apart and go back together in an almost impossible way).

The only real tip....and it is a good one (I got it from this site....didn't figure out this obvious tip myself!), is to remove the drivers side motor mount and jack up the motor...exactly as if you are replacing the motor mount. That will make this job much, much, much, much easier. In fact, replacing motor mounts is a good general maintenance task that should be done at the same time you replace oil cooler lines...nobody likes to remove an old motor mount only to re-install it! But even if you don't install new motor mounts, the PIA of removing and re-installing a motor mount just to gain access for the oil cooler lines, will save you ten times more anguish and preserve your sanity.

Good Luck

Mark

Good Luck
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  #5  
Old 10-28-2009, 06:50 AM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
 
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MarkM-

He is talking about the transmission cooler lines that run along the oil pan to the bottom of the radiator, not the engine oil cooler lines. But they are both a PITA. No known tips, but don't be in a hurry.

Rick
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  #6  
Old 10-28-2009, 09:15 AM
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When I posted the question, I actually had the line disconnected from both ends, fluid in the line drained and the three 5 mm allen mounting clamp bolts removed but the line wouldn't come out. It was getting dark so I put everything back. What started all this was the line wore through due to a dried up/ missing rubber bushing on the front mounting clamp (the one on the oil pan), so I put a split hose around the leak with a hose clamp and that stopped the leak. That was a week ago. Now that I got a good used line to replace it with I am facing a PITA unpleasant job.

I can

1. Leave it as is

2. Cut the line where it's leaking and splice with a short piece of fiber reinforced hydraulic hose with hose clamps.

3. Attempt to replace the line again by removing the exhaust clamp.and hope it comes out without too much trouble..

I am inclined to do #2 what do you think?
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Old 06-13-2010, 09:24 PM
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What happened?

I have a pinhole leak on the passenger side transmission cooler line, so I'm wondering what you ended up doing. I don't see the transmission cooler lines for sale anywhere. Are they strictly pick and pulls parts?
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  #8  
Old 06-14-2010, 12:11 AM
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I had a line leaking after the rubber insulator wore through.

I was able to weld a sleeve over the hole like a patch.
A place that does radiator repair should be able to figure this out.

It saved me the trouble of looking for a replacement and I was up in a day.

Now for the tip: I never knew about the rubber wearing away.
I immediately replaced the rubbed on all the connection points.

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