Re-boot axle adventures
 

This is a great project - challenging as all get-out, but good, nonetheless.

A few thoughts:

- between Dave Morrison's excellent DIY and tobybul's posts outlining the steps, anyone can do this job...just leave yourself lots of time.

- Dave's write up did not include DIY on replacing the diff seals...mine were shot, so I replaced them. A seal puller is HIGHLY recommended...I struggled with this step for a while, before prying it off and slightly damaging the bearing cover.

- no idea how tobybul was able to reboot two axles in an hour. I had a helper and we worked like MAD to stretch the new Astoria boots over the cone and onto the axle. One is slightly torn at the small end - I am hoping I can still clamp it off and make it hold oil. I could not get one of the four onto the axle...my hands and forearms were so fatigued that I had to wait until tomorrow to finish. Tobybul - you are my hero.

- the pick thingy that is used to pull the c-clips off the ends of the axles inside the diff...get this tool. I ended up forgetting to get it, and using a small hardwood flooring nail, slightly bent at the end, and pulling the threaded nail out (with clip attached) with needle nosed vice grips.

- I couldn't figure out how to get enough space to remove the axle from between the diff and the hub; raising and lowering the diff with a jack is the way to do it. Dave mentions this, but I glossed over it, somehow.

- I covered the open diff with saran wrap. I couldn't get my head around shoving shop rags or paper towel into a bunch of gears. The saran wrap across the open back of the diff works perfectly, especially leaving the diff open overnight.


I hope, for the love of moses, that I can use that boot with the small tear. I don't want to wait for another boot, b/c I have to go back to work on Friday, and I don't know if I can get it in time...and don't want to pay overnight shipping.

That's all for now - I'll update when I finish, or get stuck.

Cheers.

Air tool
 

These are suppose to save your forearms and make for a quick job, but expensive unless find one to rent
http://www.etoolcart.com/rapid-flexx-cv-boot-gun-ARAFB5000PK.aspx

Yeah, homeslice at Astoria (where I bought the boots) offered to sell me a used one, but it still cost a boat load.

In a vaccuum, before starting the job, I was just focused on how much money I was saving. After today, I was thinking about how tired and irritated I was...wishing I had either bought refurb axles or the gun.

But, where would the fun be in that? :)

There's got to be a way to make a homemade version of that gun. I am thinking about finding some 3 jaw gear puller fingers or maybe soupspoons (?) that have that curve.....thinking....thinking......

Rick (one axle down and seven to go)

Hi,

You can remove one of the cv jont's from the spiders and once the cv joint comes off all you got to do is slip on the new boot this takes only a few second,
why would you want to stretch them and put them over when you can remove the joint and just insert the boot plus you can use the regular mercedes benz boots which last much longer.

PS: If you want to know how to do this PM me or just post back

Jeremy Brett

I'm a little hesitant to disassemble the joint - the reason I'm changing my axles with used ones is because my boot was torn and the joint was full of dirt. I'd be nervous that I wouldn't be able to get it all back together properly.

But, bring on the details! I'm finishing my coffee and going out to get started...

IIRC , I don't think you can remove the spider without cutting the can, thereby opening a can of worms. Give us details...we are listening...

Rick

Torn boot = extreme anger
 

Well, upon stretching the last Flexx boot over the axle, it slipped out of my hand and tipped over on the ground...and damaged the boot b/c it was stretched. When I stretched it to pull it over, it tore. :eek:

I went and bought a cheap knock off from a local parts place, and it tore in 2 parts upon stretching! Anger building...

So, I'm on the look out for a local source for the proper Flexx boot - also might try the Dorman from Autozone...

FYI - The part number is Dorman 614 001 Universal Boot for both inner and outer.


Diesel911 had an idea of putting less stress on the boot to prevent it from ripping. He originally thought to using a pantyhose and peachpart's member cook tried it but it tore. I suggested using a stronger material like a piece of a bed sheet.

Anyways, the idea is to use the bed sheet like a sled. Wrap the sheet over the cone with enough material so it can expand through the cone and then put the boot over the sheet. Pull down on the sheet and theoretically the boot will follow over the cone and into the axle without any "pulling" stress on the rubber itself. I think it might worth trying. Since several folks have ripped the boots while pulling down on them.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/262186-gsk-axles-not-worth-no-matter-how-low-price-3.html




.

FWIW the Dorman boot seems to be amazingly tough. We got it stuck about an inch from going over the axle for about an hour and finally pushed it home using a putty knife (bent a bit so as to present more surface area to the edge of the boot). I was astounded that it didn't rip. I think Advanced Auto also has them a bit cheaper than Autozoo.

Good to know - just picked up Dorman boot (614 001) at Autozone...

The previous knock-off that I tried was from Murray's O'Reilly's, and tore on the side seam as I was pulling it down the cone.

Part of the issue, perhaps, is that the water is hot (the soak), and the air here in Michigan is cool (about 50 degrees right now). I suspect all the expansion and contraction, along with stressing the rubber by pulling it over the cone, added up to the tear.

Wish me luck - I'm going out to try the Dorman.

I used a heat gun on it rather than a water soak.

Got the Dorman to that last (inside) ridge on the can, and it ripped. Wow...feel like I just lifted weights for 10 hours straight.

So....

I feel like I'm just burning money here...might see if I can get my indy to throw one on...even if I had one that wouldn't rip, I don't think I would have the strength to put it on.

By the way, to grip in boot once it's on the axle/can, I used paper towels, which worked great.

Whew...need to take a break.

Easy CV Boot removal
 

Hello,

Dont worry there is no "dismantling" of the joint I see so many people saying I have trouble installing the boots but its not so difficult at all and no I did not cut the CV joints can lol.
I should think the new boot you are puttin on would tear too after a few months it would be better to use the genuine ones and they cant be stretched, the end that goes on to the diff comes off it should just pull off but over time it could have got stuck first try attaching one end of the joint on to a clank and pulling real hard make sure to drain the lubricant first when you attach one CV end on to the clank, don't clap it where the thread like things are you might have trouble puttin it back.
When you look into the CV joint down at the spider you would see one CV joint's like the rod had'nt gone in properly and will look like its about 2mm out thats the side that comes off, so what you are going to do is have one person hold it in the air and have the side that comes off facing down toward the ground, place a pice of soft cloth under it to catch the spider when it falls (dont worry no damage) now keep a strip of plywood or a plastic rod , something you can hit on don't use metals.
So keep one side on the spider and keep giving light blows right around the spider, there should be three claw like pices that the ball bearings sit in, give light blows to each of them right around and you will see that the joint is slowly staring to come off and then it will fall into the cloth now you can replace the boot and remember only one side comes off.
So when you are replacing the other side's boot you will have to put the boot in facing the other way around, now once you have the boots in place, have a pice of soft wood like plywood on the ground and sort of drop the end that comes off on the pice off wood, I'm not asking you to throw it on the ground just kind of hold it in the air and guide it in a downward motion like its being dropped on the CV joint that had been removed, now the rod will be pressed into the CV joint end and make sure it has gone the maximum it can up to the 2mm point, so now fill it up with slick 50 or whatever I prefer to use a liquid lubricant and make sure you put on the metal bands and tighten the screws to secure the boot on both ends ;)

(Note: there is a lock ring that holds the CV joints in place and requires you to remove the end cover of the diff in order to pull off the ring and there is a 13mm nut in the middle of the wheel you will have to remove that too I usually mix some gear oil and cv joint together and fill the joint up to its neck)

PS: If you find it hard to understand let me know and I will post a better and more clear one

Good Luck Jeremy Brett

Just ordered two (one for the axle, one for back up) more boots from Astoria. Money? Who cares, right?

Hope they're here by Saturday.

I guess I'll be relaxing for a few days...

Try this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F17tFS6ofzU

GOOD LUCK

Wow - this guy makes it look easy. Either I am a complete weakling, or there's something I'm missing in his install.

How is he holding the axle vertical like that?

WW, read your posts with interest. Some questions:
Did you soak the boots in hot tap water b4 slipping them in? Did you use a lubricant on the boot and the cone like Pledge?

If you read all my threads, I talked about removing all the Astorias and replaced them with Dormans. I like the Dormans better. They were a bit tougher to shove in but thats because they are sturdier.

If you did not soak and lubricate them, that maybe why they tore.

The first two boots, I soaked in hot tap water w/the cone. The last two, I soaked in near-boiling water, so it was really malleable.

I used Pledge on the cone and the boot.

I wasn't impressed by the Dormans at all (certainly splitting didn't help). The Astoria's aren't Febi-thick or anything, but they seem to move down the cone better.

I was surprised by the amount of force needed to move the boot over the cone...I'm a pretty strong, young guy and I was "bringing it" with everything I had, and then some...and was struggling.

The guy in that video clip - he's nonchalant, like it's no big deal. Unreal! :)

Circlip and Nut
 

JB,

Feed Back for clarification:
You've got to remove the Circlip and a Nut from the end of the Halfshaft before
the Spider with it's Ball bearings can be gently tapped off with a soft piece of
wood as a Buffer between the Rubber Hammer and the Spider?

Then once you've had as much fun as can be had with the boots...drive the
end of the Halfshaft back into the Spider and reattach the Circlip and Nut?

'Kinda like the Guy does in this Video?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o8iZpjPG4xM&NR=1

Or this one (those PRC guys are slick):http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wHz5eQ9yzc&feature=related

[Spent an entire night on the porch rebuilding the joints on a Golf,Rubics Cube was easy by comparison.]

[QUOTE=compress ignite;2327083]JB,

Feed Back for clarification:
You've got to remove the Circlip and a Nut from the end of the Halfshaft before
the Spider with it's Ball bearings can be gently tapped off with a soft piece of
wood as a Buffer between the Rubber Hammer and the Spider?

Then once you've had as much fun as can be had with the boots...drive the
end of the Halfshaft back into the Spider and reattach the Circlip and Nut?


Hello,

I why does everyone want to stretch or tape there boots over the joint when they can just put it on WHY??? I did this to my dads car and its still running extremely well with no problems just the way it was before except with a brand new mercedes benz CV boot on it with the correct part number and there are no problems.
I had posted this method on two other threads just like this one and they seem to think its unsafe too, WHY why is it unsafe??? I'm weirded out here stretching your boots is not the correct way of putting em on they can stretch allot beyond there original shape or they can rip or even become weak to the point where they rip for the slightest thing and the original boots are not made for that, I'm pretty sure benz made the originals boots with this method in mind not stretching them over that's why you cant stretch them over without breaking them except they must use some kind of puller and presser.

I really should have taken some photos before I put it back in but...
first you have got to get the whole CV joint assembly if you will out of the car and on to a table before you can remove the joint from the rod that attaches on to the spider.

So to get it out of the car you need to remove the lock washer from the diff thats holding the CV joint and then the nut thats holding the other side on to the axle, you are removing the lock washer and the nut to get the thing out of the car so you can work on it on the top of a table.

The side that comes off will just pop out with a hard pull or if its stuck in there over time then you will have to use a harmer and a pice of plastic rod or strip of plywood , there are no nuts or washers when it comes to separating the CV joint, and yes its a great idea to use a rubber hammer, you are not removing it from the ball bearing meaning you are not removing the spider itself so you don't have to worry about the ball bearings jumping out and you not being able to put them in there place you are just removing the rod part from the CV joint on the end.

If you have any problems PM me at anytime or even email me pixelsblack009@gmail.com

Good Luck Jeremy Bret

CVJ Current Prices
 

From an email quote they sent me:

"$142.00 each axle
plus a core deposit of $75.00 each.
Plus freight (UPS ground) which is about $16.00 for one in the US.

core deposit of $75.00 is refunded when you return the core.

These are original Mercedes Benz axles that have been completely remanufactured:"

Just one more data point to consider when choosing - aftermarket boots or reman axles.

Mike Moon
...leaning towards 'rebooting'.

I just discovered (today) that the boot on one of my CVJ half-shaft fail after about 200K miles (no noise, yet). I'm having my indy put on a replacement CVJ tomorrow morning.

Hmm, very sad, indeed. Although, you can't really beat 200k miles.

When I called them, FWIW, they only offered me a $50 core. I still came out ahead by re-booting, but it was a bear and set me back more time than was desired.

The axle rebooting is easy if you have the right cone, coat it with pledge, and heat the boots in real hot water first. Then use two people to "flump" them over the can. I could probably do 6 axles an hour if I had to. :D

In other news, one of my axles I rebooted in June is ever so slightly moist with oil in one tiny part of one side of the boot, I am hoping it is not seeping oil. :o Close inspection will be made soon....

Aahhh...so, so easy. I'm clearly an idiot. Right cone, check. Pledge? Check. Heated boot? Check.

Easy? Nope - I struggled. :o