Oops my bad. The '84 has it on the right. Which what I was thinking.

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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

Kind of an expensive part to be changing out. Maybe there is a used one out there. But I would unplug the electrical connector to it to see if there is a difference in noise and if your tach works.

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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

Did you try unplugging it as suggested by DeliveryValve?

I have a funny feeling that this is a symptom of another issue that's also affecting the tach, not the cause.

BTW, is there a disconnected vacuum line in the second photo (just forward of the vacuum converter?

I noticed that too hen I was tryin to find out where the noise was coming from, but I don't have a clue about these engine's vacuum systems and I didn't notice any unplugged hoses,, but I'll give another look.

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1985 300TD Turbo Diesel Wagon
273,000 miles

ok i pulled the electronic plug on the vacuum converter and the ticking and the tach issue went away. The tach works fine now. What now? Do i just leave it unplugged?

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1985 300TD Turbo Diesel Wagon
273,000 miles

If you don't notice a difference in the transmission shifting, then keep it unplugged. But there is a possibility that the vacuum feed line might start leaking in the unit. So if you notice the door locks don't work or your defrost or center vents don't work or engine does not shut off, then you'll need to plug up the feed line.



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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

okay, what about the unit next to the vac converter that has an unplugged port. Should this have a tube connected to it?

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1985 300TD Turbo Diesel Wagon
273,000 miles

I don't know on a '85, does this help?

http://home.comcast.net/~phantoms/vacuum/egr_federal.jpg

If I remember correctly, There should be three vacuum lines connected to it. The top line (which your is unplugged) should go through a three way connector and will lead to the blue vacuum transducer.


I'll have to find a diagram for you.

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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

Here is the correct diagram.






Here is under the hood pic of a properly routed vacuum lines (courtesy of member tobybul)






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Attached Thumbnails

 

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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

If you are having shifting trouble, then you should keep the vacuum converter setup intact. Before replacing it, test the line first. Might be the overload protection relay causing the problem.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

should I consider removing the EGR altogether? I live in NJ, so only safety checks for inspection, no emissions. I'm not sure if it will solve my problem, but if i can remove one component from the engine that would be one less problem in the future.

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1985 300TD Turbo Diesel Wagon
273,000 miles

You could, many have done this. Or you just leave it unplugged. Or you can do some research and trouble shoot it to get it working properly again.






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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

Surprised no further mention of this comment below, and subsequently, no 'edit' on the part of the OP. There are very 'uninformed' people using the search function years later.
(Something to think about).

Being fond of high revving motors, I'd love to see an OMxxx spin that high and live happy. I dont know why it would ever be necessary, but people do strange things.


Link no worky. Is the jpg still available to attach to the thread?

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83 300TD (need rear wiper assembly dead or alive)
84 300SD Daily driver
85 300TD almost 400k miles and driven daily.
98 E300D *sold
86 300SDL *sold and made flawless 10 hour journey to new home.