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  #1  
Old 10-30-2009, 10:23 PM
BodhiBenz1987's Avatar
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Motor mounts question, maybe dumb

... is there any need to jack up a 240D to change motor mounts? Looks to me like I can jack up the engine and remove all involved bolts, but the Haynes manual says jack up the car, too. Any reason for that?
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--369,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--14,500 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #2  
Old 10-30-2009, 10:34 PM
sixto's Avatar
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Jack up the car so you have room to work from below. If you can do it without lifting the car, go ahead and do it that way.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #3  
Old 10-30-2009, 11:45 PM
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I pull them up on ramps just to give me enough room to fit under there. I'm not as thin as your blog candy....... [a reference to the Weiland dude, just to clarify]


Be very very careful when installing the bolt from the bottom up into the engine mount arm. You DO NOT want to cross thread this. Have a prybar handy so you can pry against the frame rail to move the engine slight amounts. Of course you know to jack it up via a 2x4 on the oil pan. It will hold up just fine.....

Last edited by JimmyL; 10-31-2009 at 12:07 AM.
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  #4  
Old 10-30-2009, 11:54 PM
daw_two's Avatar
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Location: Germantown, TN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyL View Post
Be very very careful when installing the bolt from the bottom up into the engine mount arm. You DO NOT want to cross thread this. .....
If someone would have told me before I started, I wouldn't be in the middle of changing out a motor arm on Coda......

Poor Coda. Will she ever be put back together?

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  #5  
Old 10-30-2009, 11:56 PM
BodhiBenz1987's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyL View Post
I pull them up on ramps just to give me enough room to fit under there. I'm not as thin as your blog candy.......


Be very very careful when installing the bolt from the bottom up into the engine mount arm. You DO NOT want to cross thread this. Have a prybar handy so you can pry against the frame rail to move the engine slight amounts. Of course you know to jack it up via a 2x4 on the oil pan. It will hold up just fine.....
LOL ... well, I tell my friends, my real motivation to stay trim isn't so much health or looks as it is the ability to fit conveniently under a Mercedes sedan. I'll take caution with the bolt. I'm looking forward to getting back under a REAL car after brake-line wrangling on my dad's 99 GMC Safari (still not done.)
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--369,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--14,500 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #6  
Old 10-30-2009, 11:57 PM
BodhiBenz1987's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daw_two View Post
Poor Coda. Will she ever be put back together?
Coda should read Chase's blog ... she'll feel better.
__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--369,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--14,500 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #7  
Old 10-31-2009, 12:48 AM
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If you have engine shocks make sure you disconnect them from the engine shock mount when you lift the engine or you'll destroy the engine shock.
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'82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold
'77 300D ~ Sold
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  #8  
Old 10-31-2009, 07:24 AM
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I hear ya!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987 View Post
LOL ... well, I tell my friends, my real motivation to stay trim isn't so much health or looks as it is the ability to fit conveniently under a Mercedes sedan. I'll take caution with the bolt. I'm looking forward to getting back under a REAL car after brake-line wrangling on my dad's 99 GMC Safari (still not done.)
Funny
As a kid back in the sixties I was wiry...I could squeeze through a picket fence if I had to! Even til this day, I still have the mindset that I can still do this. But just last night, I tried to squeeze under the car to remove the bottom nut from the front exhaust pipe where it attaches to the manifold, and at some point, I wudn't goin' any further...I had to jack up the front end a little in order to get my carcass under there!

Lets just say that Ive gotten a little thicker in my old age...both in the head and the body!
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1985 300DT Sedan, 330,000 mi (gone to that great autobahn in the sky)
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  #9  
Old 11-04-2009, 12:47 PM
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Just thought I'd add a tip to this thread: If you do do this without jacking up the car, keep in mind as you go to jack up the engine that the frame still has the springs pushing it up ... so the frame will go up with the engine until the wheels start coming up and relieving the springs. Then the engine will go up by itself. I didn't have much trouble getting all the bolts out with the car on all fours on the ground. But I was puzzled when the frame followed the engine up. Duh.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--369,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--14,500 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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