Brake Rotors - Preferred Brand - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

bigfredb · #1 11-01-2009, 11:51 PM

My rear brake rotor on my 83 benz is shot. The left rear is grooving. The right rear looks OK.

What brand (other than Benz) do folks recommend ATE, BALO, Zimmerman, Meyle?

Also, I have never had to change a rotor (just lucky I guess). So I have a few questions:

Are you supposed to change both of the rotors if one needs to be replaced?
How hard is it to change the rotors?
Are any special tools needed to remove the rotors?

Thanks in advance

pawoSD · #2 11-02-2009, 12:34 AM

I use the Zimmerman cross drilled on my cars....both front and rear, they are very high quality and I have had excellent results with them.

ATE are pretty good too....or OEM dealer rotors.

If you are having strange wear on the rotors, I'd be checking the condition of the calipers and such. And, yes you must replace brakes in pairs, both rotors (and all pads) on whichever axle you are working on.

Front brakes require hub removal, proper re-greasing/packing of the bearings, a new hub grease seal, and proper adjustment of the clamping nut on the spindle. Rear brakes are easy, remove caliper, pull off rotor.

JHZR2 · #3 11-02-2009, 02:42 PM

Ive used cross drilled on my E30 BMW, but likely will not again. Braking quality feel degrades in time faster than with solid rotors... I really just did it for looks.

I like Balo. ATE and Brembo are good too. Depending upon the vehicle, the el cheapo chinese rotors can be a good choice.

For a w123 car, id go to w126 calipers and rotors, to get the added mass of a vented rotor. I don;t like solid front rotors on cars...

tbomachines · #4 11-02-2009, 02:55 PM

I use good ol' napa parts. Can't beat that Venezuelan quality (seriously...their cheap rotors were made in venezuela, at least when I worked there)

280EZRider · #5 11-02-2009, 04:32 PM

ATE and Brembo are good.
Once you have the rear rotors off, it would be a good time to inspect the parking-brake shoes. And it's much easier to adjust them with just the rotors on (no wheels).

lupin..the..3rd · #6 11-02-2009, 05:19 PM

Pads and rotors must always be replaced in pairs.

Any of the brands you mentioned are perfectly fine. A rotor is simply a piece of cast iron. In racing applications, you can tell differences between some of the manufacturers, but for street applications they are basically all the same. I'd buy whatever was cheapest.

How do you know it needs to be replaced? "Grooving" on the rotor doesn't mean anything. Rotor life is measured by measuring the thickness of the rotor with a micrometer. Most rotors have the minimum thickness stamped somewhere on the edge. 2mm difference between "new" and "time to replace" is a common number if you can't find any markings.

snookwhaler · #7 11-02-2009, 06:07 PM

This is like one of those "Oil Threads". But, I'll put in my $.02.

I like the ATE's. On the previous Volvo's and even my pickup trucks.... I have been through several sets of rotors. After the switch to ATE the warping stopped. This is all with a properly functioning brake system.

I had some bad luck with brembo's on my VW's and swore never to use them again. Funny thing is that Tire Rack had some on sale for the Mercedes 123. I got dragged in... Who could pass it up at $15 per rotor. They were the good ones too, made in Italy stamped on them, etc... Warped already... So, now I assume I have a collapsed brake line or a stuck caliper piston.... That is a different story.

I hated the Zims on my VW's. They tore the pads up, were noisy, and the rotors would actually crack around the holes. Maybe they are different on the MB? I see a lot of MB's with drilled rotors.

charmalu · #8 11-03-2009, 12:23 AM

I use what ever Dr. Phill sends me, in the Buy Parts Tab above. It`s a Mercedes, not a race car.
I can`t tell any difference between brands.

Yesterday I was in The Carson City,NV at the PNP, there is a 123 with a new set of rotors and pads. was very tempting, and 50% off. no I didn`t, they are still there.

The W126 brake up grade mentioned above, is for the front brakes only.

Charlie

bigfredb · #9 11-03-2009, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

. . .

If you are having strange wear on the rotors, I'd be checking the condition of the calipers and such. And, yes you must replace brakes in pairs, both rotors (and all pads) on whichever axle you are working on.

. . .

pawoSD,

thanks for the tips. My rear rotors are the ones of note. If I change to the zimmerman's, can I just change the rear rotors and leave the front ones as is for now?

How do you check if the calipers are OK or not?

Shawn T. W. · #10 11-08-2009, 08:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

.

For a w123 car, id go to w126 calipers and rotors, to get the added mass of a vented rotor. I don;t like solid front rotors on cars...

Tell me more . . . can I just get some w126 calipers & rotors & pads and they bolt right up?

I assume that the 126 is larger diameter? or are the pads longer? what is the difference to make it worth it?

WhoWhat · #11 11-08-2009, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shawn T. W.

Tell me more . . . can I just get some w126 calipers & rotors & pads and they bolt right up?

I assume that the 126 is larger diameter? or are the pads longer? what is the difference to make it worth it?

See this post:

Upgrading w123 with 1st generation w126 brakes

Junkman · #12 11-08-2009, 01:47 PM

Don't go for any special cross drilled rotor. Manufacturing process comes into play and some have cracked at the holes. Be cognizant of any different wear pattern between sides. You may have a hanging caliper if 1 side is more grooved than the other. A warped rotor is an indication of heat which can also be caused by a hanging caliper.

pawoSD · #13 11-08-2009, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junkman

Don't go for any special cross drilled rotor. Manufacturing process comes into play and some have cracked at the holes. Be cognizant of any different wear pattern between sides. You may have a hanging caliper if 1 side is more grooved than the other. A warped rotor is an indication of heat which can also be caused by a hanging caliper.

I have all cross drilled on my W126 and W124 and my dad has them on the front of his W126.....none have had any issues at all. And the braking performance is awesome. On long high speed stops they really bite down and bring the car to a stop, you can tell the difference over a normal rotor, they pretty much never have any fade. I used to have the ATE PremiumOne rotors on my car, and those are quite good too. A set of them (front) lasted me 55k of hard driving on my W126. So far I have about 7k on my cross drilled rotors + PBR Advanced Ceramic pads, and there is virtually no visible wear on them.

pawoSD · #14 11-08-2009, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigfredb

pawoSD,

thanks for the tips. My rear rotors are the ones of note. If I change to the zimmerman's, can I just change the rear rotors and leave the front ones as is for now?

How do you check if the calipers are OK or not?

Yes, you can replace just the rears. They just always have to be replaced in pairs. (both front or both rear, never just one rotor)

Look for wear on the rotors and pads, if one pad is thicker than the other in one of the calipers, then you have a stuck or dragging piston. I had this happen on my SD and replaced the rear calipers...the new ones work MUCH better.

JHZR2 · #15 11-08-2009, 05:24 PM

Hate to burst bubbles, but drilled rotors do not enhance/improve braking at all. A rotor is in reality a heatsink, and holes take away from the mass that could take kinetic energy to heat.

Holes are used to help gases escape, and a gassing interface. For normal use having thermal mass is key.