submerged w140...towed home finally... - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

locry · #31 11-06-2009, 02:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whiskeydan

I've designed and maintained complex radio frequency circuits and routinely used WD40 on circuitry with a much higher/critical impedance than anything used here. The idea is to apply a very thin film to act as a vapor barrier. This will preserve a good low resistive path provided there is good mechanical contact.

Oxidation with RF connections acts the same as a noise "diode". Any energy applied to the junction will create unwanted broadband noise. This noise can mask the desired signal. We've found the application of WD40 will prevent this noise over the long haul.

Not really a "super-secret trick" though.

there are a few places where there is obvious corrosion more than others... what should i do first? i've "toothbrushed" most of the oxidation but there are some that requires more "force/brushing"... i fear that i might do more harm than good if i force clean those areas... up to what point is a solder joint hopeless? thanks

matthias08 · #32 11-06-2009, 08:10 AM

I just wanted to take a moment and wish you the best of luck!

it looks as if this W140 has seen better days... but by the sounds of this thread, you and I have the same mentality, and a few people in here had followed my 240D's saga.

I assume the insurance called a total loss? resulting in a nice payout?!

I'd love to see how this turns out... as my brother has a 600SEL thats probably, mechanically in the same shape as your car... (he's a Mustang kind of guy)

and I always wondered what could be done.

honestly, from my sick point of view... I'd like to detail that car, just so it would be in my portfolio.

Whiskeydan · #33 11-06-2009, 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by locry

there are a few places where there is obvious corrosion more than others... what should i do first? i've "toothbrushed" most of the oxidation but there are some that requires more "force/brushing"... i fear that i might do more harm than good if i force clean those areas... up to what point is a solder joint hopeless? thanks

The solder joints should be intact. Your problems will most likely be with resistive paths (deposits) between the pcb's trace and/or ajacent component pins. Beware, some large surface mount devices may have trace damage beneath them that is impossible to see/clean.
Flush with clean water, dry with alcohol and follow with a thin film of wd40.

I remember repairing a pro audio mixing console that had a coke spilled. Some of the transistors had one or two leads missing and was standing on the pbc by one leg. Pre-surface mt days...

Phil · #34 11-06-2009, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whiskeydan

Flush with clean water, dry with alcohol and follow with a thin film of wd40....

It was always my impression that WD40 conducts electricity and leaves a residue that will still carry power that’s why I was suggesting using contact cleaner and electric motor cleaner, no residue.

Whiskeydan · #35 11-06-2009, 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil

It was always my impression that WD40 conducts electricity and leaves a residue that will still carry power that’s why I was suggesting using contact cleaner and electric motor cleaner, no residue.

WD40 is a dielectric.

StaggerLee · #36 11-06-2009, 12:55 PM

In the 1990's, I was a commercial fisherman in Bristol Bay Alaska. I blew out the front windows of my boat charging through a storm to the fishing grounds and it soaked all of the electronics with salt water. Everything came back to life, eventually, but it took some time and was a matter of spraying WD 40 on everything numerous times. Use the little red tube that comes with the can to help blast off the crust.

ps. Hatch covers make good windows in a pinch

tbomachines · #37 11-06-2009, 02:33 PM

You are very ambitious, good luck! I know the w140s have a reeputation for the bad wiring already, I'm sure being submerged isn't going to help much. Nevertheless, hope you can get this thing working again, looks like a fun project.

locry · #38 11-12-2009, 10:17 PM

i'm stocking up on wd40.

quick update... managed to remove the power seats by jumping the motors... which still worked.

cleaned most of the door innards... jumped the power window motors(all still working)... removed the carpets, console, dash paraphernalia... will take pics this weekend.

next up is the dash/innards

all in all, i think she'll live.

Ian White · #39 11-12-2009, 11:27 PM

Keep us posted...

mplafleur · #40 11-13-2009, 01:20 AM

I think this is great. Bring her back to life!

Why give up on the engine?

spamman450 · #41 11-13-2009, 01:31 AM

This is an awesome project. I will be following updates!

locry · #42 11-13-2009, 01:57 AM

why give up on the engine? the simplicity of diesels is always a plus.

besides, if i were to try and revive the engine i'd have to go through all the electricals and computers and whatnot. i figure i'd just slap in a 602 and be done with it.

i've had good experiences with 603s... 602s are just a cylinder off. for now the only complicated thing i'm seeing is making the gauge cluster work with the 602... but that'll be for later... i'll just be concentrating on cleaning every nook and cranny... and hopefully make all the motors and interior functions work.

locry · #43 11-15-2009, 02:07 AM

mud removed, channels cleaned... power window motor still works

dash partly disassembled...lotsa work up ahead

back-up antenna actuator

taillights had mud inside... i managed to pry off the lense... had nothing to lose so i risked it.

the plastic chrome plating inside the lense eroded in some places... will probably paint it a darker color to achieve a semi-smoked effect... won't paint the lense... just the reflector... i also successfuly pried off the lense of the center garnish btw

front door speaker baffles... nice pieces by BOSE.

R.Diesel · #44 11-15-2009, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mgburg

Spray down everything with regular water, then follow up with the distilled water, followed with a good blowjob with the hairdryer, then lube everything that needs lubing and if there's rust, attack that with the recommended chemicals...but I would hesitate on a wholesale spraying of WD40...unless Whiskeydan knows a super-secret trick that the rest of us are just dying to hear about...

As for the rest of the electricals...unless you know EXACTLY where all connectors are, and their related plugs, you're going to be tracking down gremlins 'til the end of the earth...just look at the problems folks have with their cars that are in perfect condition...your baby's been, literally, dragged through the mud and back again, then buried under how many gallons of fish-feces-invested water? And salt-water-atmosphere to boot????

This car will be a learning TOOL only...

The good part of this story (future-wise?) will be that you'll probably be darned close to the only "Nearly-Off-Frame W140 Restorer" that anyone would be able to find on that island.

Heck of a learning curve ahead of you!

Good luck with the project...

BTW: WARNING!!! WARNING!!! WATCH OUT FOR THE AIR-BAG CIRCUITRY!!!

( Need I say more? )

Giggety

locry · #45 01-09-2010, 06:58 AM

EVAP!!! got it out finally!

crossmember