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  #1  
Old 11-03-2009, 02:45 PM
MercFan's Avatar
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Location: Denver, CO
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Put money down on a 1987 300SDL!

I've been looking and checking lots of cars and finally decided to put money on a 1987 300SDL in Oklahoma. I'm getting it inspected by a local Indy this Friday, so looks like I'll be making a road trip out there.

The car has 127,500 miles on it - the Carfax verifies it, no accidents, no rust, some cosmetic issues with handles, light frames, etc. Seats and interior in good shape, records and supposedly all OEM parts.

I've started compiling a list of things to check myself on the car. I'd like to do a thorough inspection to uncover anything that wasn't mentioned before by the owner or by the Indy during inspection.

So far, I've got these items to check myself:

General:
Look under the carpets for signs of rust (front driver, passanger)
Look in the trunk - wheel well - and under the spare tire for any rust
Check fenders for rust
Check inside the doors for signs of rust
Check heat
Check AC
Check Sunroof working
Opening/closing all power windows
Trunk latch working when doors locked

Undercarriage:
Flex discs condition
Rubber grommets holding the muffler
Check the fuel filler cap for pressure
Check the rubber boots on both axles
Back of the rear bumper for rust issues

Engine bay:
Blowby check
Fuel filters (pre and main)
Ask about the oil change - when was it done next time?
Any signs of heat damage to the head
See if you can tell the head casting numbers
Coolant level and color
Power steering fluid level
Brake fluid level
Condition of all belts
Oil cooler lines

If there are some more items that I should add to the list please send 'em my way -

Thanks,
James

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1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD
1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD
2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K;
1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K
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  #2  
Old 11-03-2009, 04:17 PM
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Location: Sunsites, AZ
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Check in the wells the hood hinges drop into, they collect leaves and dirt, plug up the drian, and rust (at least on 123's) under the battery area . . .

Check tires for uneven wear.

Check front and rear window rubber seal, dump some water over it, on top of the sunroof too . . . unless it is raining out!

Not sure if those still run the vacuum door locks . . . good to know everything is in order . . . One key fits everything?
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  #3  
Old 11-03-2009, 04:55 PM
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Location: Germantown, TN
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check for rust at jackpoints and floor pans
check for one key that fits everything.
lay on the ground and open each door --- look at the bottom of each door; look at the front inside bottom corners of each door.
visually inspect motor mounts (not a show stopper).
check for rust on floor pans and around the bottom edge of the back window.
look for sound panels on bottom of engine compartment; if not present, ask owner if he (or she) has them.
check all dash lights.
check all outside lights --- brake, fog, head, tail
check all buttons on front seats
during test drive listen for 2 to 3rd transmission flare
if radio is not original Becker; ask if it is available.
check for rust on floor pans
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daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
Cluster Needles Paint
New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more
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  #4  
Old 11-03-2009, 05:03 PM
A work in process...
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 985
Re: Put money down on a 1987 300SDL!

Quote:
Originally Posted by MercFan View Post
If there are some more items that I should add to the list please send 'em my way -

Thanks,
James
Great list you've got. More comprehensive than mine.

These are my 15min quick check basics:
Exterior rust check, dents and dings.

General interior condition and working of controls. Signs of water damage or dampness of carpets.

Carbon buildup in exhaust outlet. Excessive smoke at start and acceleration.

General condition of engine compartment. Color and consistency of oil. Water in the hinge cubby and cowl vents.

Check fusebox for signs of previously burnt fuses - they leave that telltale white burn mark.

Play in front steering gear - can check during test drive. Does it drive strait? Does it continue to drive strait after you let go of wheel and hit the brakes? Any klunks?

Abnormal tire wear front and back.

Brake wear, noise, sponginess, dash indicator?

Hard shifting on automatic models.

Working instrument panel - odo, trip, tach/clock, oil, fuel, temp, lights.

CarFax report supplied by seller?

Codifex
1981 240D ChinaBlue (found an engine - hope it's good)
1983 300DTurbo w/sunroof
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  #5  
Old 11-03-2009, 05:17 PM
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Good list...

Good stuff guys - thank you... I'll be busy for a couple of hours... but I figured, I'm buying a used car, so I have to be thorough and somewhat fussy.

THx again -
James
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1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD
1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD
2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K;
1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K
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  #6  
Old 11-03-2009, 05:26 PM
C Sean Watts's Avatar
NOCH EIN PILS!!
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: NC
Posts: 1,318
Did I miss

Should have a 603, right? Trap-oxidizer should be removed. After you shut it off do the upper radiator hose squeeze for pressure. It should get much softer as it cools.
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  #7  
Old 11-03-2009, 08:42 PM
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Location: Sunsites, AZ
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Also pull the air filter, tap it on a piece of white paper, see what falls out! Gives you an idea what kind of service it has been under . . .
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82 240D Manual 277K and still rolling!
02 Volvo S60 AWD For Sale
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  #8  
Old 11-03-2009, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn T. W. View Post
Also pull the air filter, tap it on a piece of white paper...
Good idea - do I need a tool for undoing the filter cover?!
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1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD
1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD
2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K;
1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K
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  #9  
Old 11-03-2009, 11:25 PM
pawoSD's Avatar
Dieselsüchtiger
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 15,438
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn T. W. View Post
Check in the wells the hood hinges drop into, they collect leaves and dirt, plug up the drian, and rust (at least on 123's) under the battery area . . .

Check tires for uneven wear.

Check front and rear window rubber seal, dump some water over it, on top of the sunroof too . . . unless it is raining out!

Not sure if those still run the vacuum door locks . . . good to know everything is in order . . . One key fits everything?
W126's are completely different in the hood hinge area....

And the door locks have their own electric pump, which rarely has problems.

And the front window is glue-installed on the W126....no gasket.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #10  
Old 11-03-2009, 11:25 PM
pawoSD's Avatar
Dieselsüchtiger
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 15,438
Quote:
Originally Posted by MercFan View Post
Good idea - do I need a tool for undoing the filter cover?!
Only a 10mm wrench or socket for the nut in the center.
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #11  
Old 11-04-2009, 02:37 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 115
Check for a replaced or updated engine vacuum pump. Older type pumps have come apart and caused engine damage.

Older/Original type = smooth face

Replaced/Updated type = 4 torx bolts on face

An interesting thread on the subject:

OM603: Vacuum pump explosion, bearing intact! Injection Pump Timing device wrecked

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W123, '81 240D, Pastel Grey/Blue Tex
W126, '88 300 SEL, Artic White/Grey Leather
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