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  #16  
Old 11-04-2009, 03:28 AM
BodhiBenz1987's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyL View Post
I've had this happen before, and I just had to keep jacking. The car seemed like it was raising, and it was, but suddenly it stopped raising and the engine kept going.
You might need to loosen the bracket going from the tranny area to the exhaust pipe. I don't think this is gumming up the works, but it can wedge things up a bit and possibly snap a joint loose on your exhaust, especially with your amount of rust.
How high up did you have to jack it before the engine moved sans car? I'm a bit hesitant to push it too high for fear it'll suddenly give and cause collateral damage. Maybe it just needs to go a little higher.
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1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--369,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--14,500 miles
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  #17  
Old 11-04-2009, 06:32 AM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
 
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JimmyL is right. It does seem like you are jacking up the whole car, but there will be a point where the engine weight is relieved from the springs and only the engine will lift. It is quite aways up there, but I doubt any of us have measured it exactly.

Just keep going...as long as you have at least one side mount, the center mount loosened, and have checked clearance on the fan shroud and throttle linkage....just keep going.

Rick
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  #18  
Old 11-04-2009, 12:15 PM
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You guys are right ... It occurred to me in the middle of the night that when most people do this job, they jack up the whole car first ... so the wheels are already pulling down the frame. So when they start jacking the engine, it goes right up. I did it with the car on all fours ... so all I had was the weight of the frame. All I had to do was jack the engine to the point where the wheels starting acting as a force of gravity, and up it went. Not really sure why that didn't occur to me before ... simple physics. And like in that pic fulcrum posted, the frame isn't much mass.
Something to keep in mind if you're doing this without jacking up the whole car!
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--369,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--14,500 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #19  
Old 11-04-2009, 03:28 PM
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Well that was easy! As soon as the springs unloaded, the engine went right up, and the mounts kicked right out. They were rotten and smooshed ... had to jack the engine up quite a bit more to fit the new ones in. Amazing how much easier things become when you factor in basic physics. For some reason it just didn't occur to me that there were highly loaded springs pushing the frame up to the engine.
Now I just have to wait for the third mount to come in; I ordered it today. Looks like it won't be hard to change with the engine up.
Attached Thumbnails
OK, my motor mount is just stuck-img_4149duo.jpg  
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--369,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--14,500 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #20  
Old 11-04-2009, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987 View Post
Well that was easy! As soon as the springs unloaded, the engine went right up, and the mounts kicked right out. They were rotten and smooshed ... had to jack the engine up quite a bit more to fit the new ones in. Amazing how much easier things become when you factor in basic physics. For some reason it just didn't occur to me that there were highly loaded springs pushing the frame up to the engine.
Now I just have to wait for the third mount to come in; I ordered it today. Looks like it won't be hard to change with the engine up.
Hey, your old one looks pretty good compared to the piece of metal I pulled out mine - all the rubber had deteriorated. You can imagine what that sounded like with the engine going. The PO said he thought it needed new fuel filter to fix the problem - uhhh, ok.
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  #21  
Old 11-04-2009, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by tankowner View Post
Hey, your old one looks pretty good compared to the piece of metal I pulled out mine - all the rubber had deteriorated. You can imagine what that sounded like with the engine going. The PO said he thought it needed new fuel filter to fix the problem - uhhh, ok.
Mine actually weren't astoundingly bad ... the engine just rocked more than I think it should have. It's also a pretty rough runner, probably, so it may not improve that much even with the new ones (I haven't started it yet, not until I get the new t-mount behind the oil pan). But old ones are full of cracks and very mooshy, so I think I've done something productive.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--369,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--14,500 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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